8622rtec

Here goes. 1986 w/ 22rte swapped in. bought the truck and PO said engine was 'rebuilt' - although only seals and rings were done? Recently, the truck has lost some power and now burns a lot of oil.

This is what I have done:
1. Pulled all spark plugs. Each is black caked and nasty.
2. Looked at all possible sources for oil leaks. (sm leak at main seal)
3. Turbo - I have yet to pull this apart, although being that each cyclinder appears to be buring oil like a mofo....

Any ideas on where I go from here. I'd like to avoid a full rebuild - but its looking like tearing down the head would/could be my next step in a diagnosis?

Thanks in advance!

PismoJoe

Hard to know what PO do....

Do you know if he honed the cylinders? Pretty rare someone would go through the trouble of doing the rings and not just go all the way, but people do strange things.

Could be something like bad valve seats/seals, how much oil are you burning? What main seal is leaking, front or rear?

Do your plugs look dry or wet?

I have seen too many turbos go out and then you're pretty much SOL unless you have some $$ to burn

8622rtec

Hey thanks PismoJoe!

I don't know the extent that the PO went to on the cylinders. I'd doubt he did much but get things 'working' judging by other things on the truck but thats another can of worms...

I was thinking bad valve seats or seals - this will require a tear down... - Rear main seal is leaking.

Plugs look dry. All black on ends... I will get pics of my truck and plugs tonight.

PismoJoe

Nice! Yeah the unknown is definitely working against you here lol.

You will get a much better idea of what has been done in there once you get that head off. My local machine shop quoted me $250 to go through the stock head, but I ended up going with a new one from ENGNBLDR because a brand new stock one is $350.

You could do the rear main with the engine still in the car, but you have to drop the tranny.

I feel where you are coming from, I thought that i was only going to do a top end refreshment on my 86 until I took off the head and noticed some ugly things lol.

when you break it down, its around $500 more to completely rebuild the bottom end as well, and I felt that this was a small price to know that everything has been done.

Sometimes if you replace the head on an old engine, the oil burning issues don't stop, then you're really bummed and regretting it.

But like I said, once you tear her down you will have a good idea of the condition of the block, and you can make a decision from there

Hadmatt54

Does your engine blow blue smoke after you accelerate and then back off on the accelerator? If it does then it's pulling oil down around the valve stems into the cylinders and you need valve seals. These can be changed with out removing the head. You need a valve spring compressor, proper fitting to screw into the cylinder for an air hose to connect to, of course an air compressor. The air in the cylinder keeps the valve in place, while you remove the valve spring locks and spring and replace the valve seal.
If you don't think that it's the valve seals then I would do some more investigative testing, before I tore it down. I'd do a dry compression check see what the results were and then do a wet compression check if my results were not what they should be. Here's how you do that:-
The dry and wet compression test is a standard test used to determine the condition of the pistons and rings, cylinder, valves and seats, and even the head gasket, and is carried out as follows:

1. Using an air line, blow away all dirt and debris from around the spark plugs.

2. Start the engine and allow it to warm up to operating temperature.

3. Remove all spark plugs and disable the high tension coil and the fuel pump.

4. Screw the compression tester into each cylinder in turn and crank the engine, making sure the throttle is kept fully open. Crank the engine for about four compression strokes and record the readings.

5. Check the readings. The lowest reading cylinder should not be less than 75% of the highest reading. Some manufacturers specify a minimum reading and any reading lower than that is unacceptable. You can check the vehicle service manual for these figures.

6. If all the readings are within specifications, there is no need to do the wet test but if there is variation between cylinders, then squirt about a tablespoon of lubricating oil into each cylinder and repeat the test. If the pressures increase appreciably and come up to the manufacturer's specifications, then you can be sure there is piston ring and/or cylinder and piston wear.

7. If after adding the oil, the pressure does not go up, your valves may not be seating properly and that could be for a variety of reasons. If there is no pressure rise in only one cylinder, it could be because of a blown head gasket.

If your engine tests within spec then I'd definitely look at the turbo as the problem. If it's the stock CT20, they are famous for cracking, beneath the exhaust housing. To check you need to remove the exhaust housing and check for cracks around the impeller housing. If yours doesn't have any cracks then you can buy a rebuild kit for it (seals and bushings, etc.) If your's is toast, I've got one, complete with manifold piping and heat shields that I'm not using on my rebuild. I've never taken the exhaust housing off of mine to verify that it's okay, but if you do end up needing one, I would definitely do that to make sure it is okay before I put it up for sale.
If you really want to know as much as possible about these engines, then go to:-
http://www.22rte-trucks.com/simplemachinesforum/
Talk to the guys on this site, the moderators have forgotten more about these engines then the rest of us will probably ever know!
By the way, if you decide to replace the rear main seal and not remove the engine or rebuild it, along with your new rear main seal, buy a crank sleeve, because if your rear main is leaking it's almost a given that the seal mating surface is scored.
Good Luck!

8622rtec

Thanks Hadmatt54!

I have a lot of work ahead of me. At least its nice to look at...

Here are some pics of my truck - more work needed!

Notice the funky wiring? I have a hunch the PO when he swapped the 22rte into the truck didn't use an rte wiring harness... maybe he canabalized the 22re adding bits and not using others..

Ill post more pics of the wiring and stuff soon. Went to start it today and now to top it off, it won't start. Lots of power I think its a starter or the connection....

8622rtec

more pics...

8622rtec

and more pics,..

PismoJoe

Nice lookin rig!

8622rtec

and finally

8622rtec

Thanks Pismo. Its a love hate relationship at this point for me! lol

PismoJoe

Ha I feel ya on that one. I got my 86 4runner, put 3k on it, then she blew a HG...

I still love her though, that's why my paychecks go to her

8622rtec

looks like i might be hitting you up for some info! - i see you have built an engine for your 86

PismoJoe

Lol trying is more like it...I have been waiting on rocker arms for 2 months!!!! That's the only thing I need and then the engine is done haha

But definitely, if you need any info, I'll do my best to help you out

wetwoodchuck

Hey how much power at the crank does the 22-rte make from the factory? Was the turbo a good fit for the 22-re? What happens the the motor if the turbo craps the bed? Do you think the longevity of the 22-re is compromised do to the added pressure?

Sorry a lot of ??? but i'm a newbie.

Hadmatt54

That's a beautiful 86 the only rust that I can see is on the tailgate. I see the BC plates is that where you bought it? Well you have the turbo engine, the turbo dash and the turbo seats are you sure that the 22rte was swapped in? Take a look at the bell housing and see if there is a round rubber plug in the bottom. If there is I'd bet that your truck is a factory turbo with the R151F transmission that most guys would give their left #&* for. You can tell for sure by going here
http://www.toyotapartszone.com/genui...ota-parts.html
and typing in your VIN. The description that comes up will verify if it was a 22re or a 22rte.

8622rtec

hey thanks hadmatt. I actually bought it in Calgary - passed B.C. inspection with nothing wrong! But then.... slowly the ugly has come out. I will type the vin in and post it - my bet is on the 22rte being swapped in - I think the PO went to a lot of trouble to build a 22rte sr5. I'm sure someone will correct this, but I'm not even sure the extended cab was offered in manual for the 22rte? I was under the impression they were all auto? We shall see!

Thanks again for the step by step tests - I need to acquire a few things and ill be on it posting some results..

8622rtec

I think the 22rte produces about 130 hp, but I may be wrong.. From the limited knowledge I have on the 22rte engine, my opinion is that the factory turbo isnt toyotas greatest... but is a nice boost to the 22re, when it works. I plan on doing what many have and replace the ct20 - just like maddhatt has discussed. (above)

8622rtec

And the answer is - swapped in. The tranny doesnt have the rubber (could this just be missing?) the VIN search yielded regular.. I think he put the cab and engine of a 22rte with the tranny and frame of a reg... who knows!?

Hadmatt54

If the rubber plug was missing then there would be about a 2" round hole in the bottom of the bell housing. If there is no hole or plug then you are probably right. Your 22rte was swapped in. The bellhousing and flywheel is standard 22re. The clutch is 8 3/4" and transmission is a w56, whereas the turbo bellhousing has the hole/rubber plug in the bottom, the flywheel is larger, takes a 9 1/4" clutch and the transmission is a R151F.