22RTE/22RE hybrid running.
#1
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22RTE/22RE hybrid running.
It Lives:
No major issues.. Took a while to get oil flow.
One fuel leak.
One water leak.
No oil leaks.
It actually fired right up after being reconfigured with Megasquirt.
I'm watching oil and fuel pressure... Getting the wideband connected in soon, hopefully on the road this week.
Broad specs:
8.5:1 CP pistons
DOA head, full work, +1mm valves
Custom turbo manifold
t3/t4b turbo
60mm TB on latemodel 22re manifold
Custom cam
ACT clutch
2.5" exhaust
It makes an interesting sound with the t3/t04b on there - note not tuned:
http://lakebox.dnsalias.com/photos/1...build/eng1.MPG
No major issues.. Took a while to get oil flow.
One fuel leak.
One water leak.
No oil leaks.
It actually fired right up after being reconfigured with Megasquirt.
I'm watching oil and fuel pressure... Getting the wideband connected in soon, hopefully on the road this week.
Broad specs:
8.5:1 CP pistons
DOA head, full work, +1mm valves
Custom turbo manifold
t3/t4b turbo
60mm TB on latemodel 22re manifold
Custom cam
ACT clutch
2.5" exhaust
It makes an interesting sound with the t3/t04b on there - note not tuned:
http://lakebox.dnsalias.com/photos/1...build/eng1.MPG
#4
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Sounds good and looks like a clean set up.
Why didn't you run an intercooler? I found my rte to heat soak really easy. Even if you grab an air to air id think it would help.
What kinda boost do you plan on running?
Why didn't you run an intercooler? I found my rte to heat soak really easy. Even if you grab an air to air id think it would help.
What kinda boost do you plan on running?
#5
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During break in, I won't run more than about 5psi. Expected peak boost on pump fuel will be around 15psi. Also, I'm in the KIS stage (keep it simple) - an intercooler will be added, but I'm in TX, can't lose AC - so it won't go behind the grill. Additional fabrication will be required to install an IC and not mess up ground clearance.
#6
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Sounds good with 15psi id say its a must to do an IC. Have you looked in to Water to air? You have the room just stuff one in the bay.
Air to air you could use a small bar and plate behind the bumper and be ok. 15psi you dont need a huge one. I had one about the size of a conquest ic and was spiking 22psi on highboost it would fall off to about 17-18 and hold there but running low boost at 8psi i noticed a small difference. It felt way mor consistant in the way it would pull. I will say this on the highway after a long cruise when i would punch it the truck would pull way harder.
Air to air you could use a small bar and plate behind the bumper and be ok. 15psi you dont need a huge one. I had one about the size of a conquest ic and was spiking 22psi on highboost it would fall off to about 17-18 and hold there but running low boost at 8psi i noticed a small difference. It felt way mor consistant in the way it would pull. I will say this on the highway after a long cruise when i would punch it the truck would pull way harder.
#7
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I'm just starting to investigate water to air. There really isn't much hood clearance on this thing, so it'd have to be put elsewhere.
I don't have a stock bumper - it's a custom piece that I built that still allows air flow to the radiator, but has 6 mount points and a reinforced cross member.. 9k of winch can really tug at the front end. The bumper may have to be redesigned/replaced - not sure yet.
I've seen ICs in the fenderwell area also, but I'd like an air-to-air to have good air flow.
I don't have a stock bumper - it's a custom piece that I built that still allows air flow to the radiator, but has 6 mount points and a reinforced cross member.. 9k of winch can really tug at the front end. The bumper may have to be redesigned/replaced - not sure yet.
I've seen ICs in the fenderwell area also, but I'd like an air-to-air to have good air flow.
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#9
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Looks and sounds Great, I'm Jealous
Prob with water to air is where to place the exchanger, sorta end up with the same problem that air to air has -no room for proper airflow (I have AC too). I was told I could plumb it in to the trucks cooling system and use a four core from a chev conversion for the extra capcity, I don't think that would work as well, what do you think?
I sized a Spearco 2-231 core and tanks above the passenger fender shoud fit with some work.
Prob with water to air is where to place the exchanger, sorta end up with the same problem that air to air has -no room for proper airflow (I have AC too). I was told I could plumb it in to the trucks cooling system and use a four core from a chev conversion for the extra capcity, I don't think that would work as well, what do you think?
I sized a Spearco 2-231 core and tanks above the passenger fender shoud fit with some work.
#10
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Honestly, I don't know.. It'd depend on how close to the limits of capacity the radiator is at now and how much air you're flowing over it. No idea at this point!
#11
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Congrats, man. I'll be watching closely how it all shakes out since I'm going to be using your MS solution soon. (You know me as wildernessfirst via email.)
I'll be interested to see if the factory fuel regulator poses a problem once you turn the boost up as well.
Sounds great! I can't wait to get mine put together.
I'll be interested to see if the factory fuel regulator poses a problem once you turn the boost up as well.
Sounds great! I can't wait to get mine put together.
#14
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I dont know how big a intercooler needs to be and if it would work, but there was a lot of room between the radiator and the ac unit on my 22re for a tranny cooler. This is way below your ability, but I thought why not mention it. Maybe I will learn that the cooler can't go there. Scooped hood?
#15
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Thread Starter
Sounds badass. Do you have any power goals in mind, or know how much your initial setup will make?
I dont know how big a intercooler needs to be and if it would work, but there was a lot of room between the radiator and the ac unit on my 22re for a tranny cooler. This is way below your ability, but I thought why not mention it. Maybe I will learn that the cooler can't go there. Scooped hood?
I'm not sure where you're suggesting I put it - it needs to be in a direct airflow path. There's no room behind the grill, probably less than 1" - too shallow for an IC unless I pull the AC, which I'm not going to do.
Options are: fender well mount, hood scoop and run one under the hood, redesign the bumper, or find a water to air solution.
#16
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Looks good Darin, just keep in mind when sizing an intercooler, first look at the efficient air flow (HP numbers) that fit your HP goals, then look at size and see where it can go. I would stay away from an air to water mainly because your truck is a street machine not a race-truck. If you go out on a long cruise the water will heat up and take much longer to cool down.
Did I send you pics of mine?
Later
Did I send you pics of mine?
Later
#19
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In reterospect, I've got boost creep that I haven't gotten under control. I'm at 9psi at 4000 and even though my wastegate is fully loose, I'm still building boost. I also have timing setup issue that won't allow me to drop beyond 10 BTDC - so I need to fix that. I didn't know this while tuning.
AFRs have been fine. IT's really interesting to tune these things, but a bit difficult - everthing happens very quickly with boost. I've got full datalogging, so I can review later - but it's still challenging.
I was running a "stock" engnbldr HG, I knew it was a risk, but I've had issues with MLS HGs in the past, mainly because I didn't have a block (at that time) that was machined for them. I ordered a Cometic.
I choose not to o-ring my block after discussing with my machist and seeing all the issues that Jeff Mosk has had with his. Also, I'm at 93.5mm bore - there isn't much room left. My machinist felt that adding an o-ring with so little material left might be a liability.
I'm aiming for 200+ hp on pump gas.
I'm running a t3/t04b turbo, I believe it's a little too big for my application - I knew that up front based on compressor map, but the real world results are that it starts boosting at 2k rpm and does 9psi by 4000. I'd like to see more boost earlier. It's not even working hard, however - as my intake temps are in the low 100s... That's about the same as stock, believe it or not!
I'll be installing a .7bar TIAL WG (external) to keep boost static this time.
For reference, I hit detonation at 4000-4500 RPM, 8.5:1 CR, and 10 BTDC timing.. 12.3:1 AFR... So maybe this will be useful to someone else some day.
I'll have it back on the road once I get that HG....
#20
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So, full disclosure: I ate a HG yesterday. I'm failing leak down on #4 and putting pressure into my cooling system.
In reterospect, I've got boost creep that I haven't gotten under control. I'm at 9psi at 4000 and even though my wastegate is fully loose, I'm still building boost. I also have timing setup issue that won't allow me to drop beyond 10 BTDC - so I need to fix that. I didn't know this while tuning.
I'll be installing a .7bar TIAL WG (external) to keep boost static this time.
In reterospect, I've got boost creep that I haven't gotten under control. I'm at 9psi at 4000 and even though my wastegate is fully loose, I'm still building boost. I also have timing setup issue that won't allow me to drop beyond 10 BTDC - so I need to fix that. I didn't know this while tuning.
I'll be installing a .7bar TIAL WG (external) to keep boost static this time.
Where is your air charge temp sensor? what octane fuel are you running?
Later
Last edited by Full Boogie; 12-16-2006 at 07:42 AM. Reason: Added info