yotamanbill77

The old 1993 4x4 22re jumped time several times, burnt a hole in the #1 piston and spun a bearing. I acquired the truck non running and being told it needed a fuel pump. I got the truck from a relative for nothing. I ordered a rebuilt motor, head, and all the accessories a couple of days ago so i am anxiously awaiting its arrival. If anybody wants to give any advice i would appreciate it. I've worked on my own vehicals all my life but this will be the first complete engine swap i've done. I will definately keep you guys posted on my progress!

Elton

make sure you label every thing other than that you should be fine

yotamanbill77

Labled every vacuum hose and plug,bagged all bolts and labled em. i should be ok.
thanks. hopefully it goes together smoothly.

my truck: 93 toyota 4x4 extended cab
my dad: 2004 tundra trd extended cab

InternetRoadkill

A digital camera can be your friend when navigating uncharted waters.

Yota4runner

Just to echo those sentiments posted above. Pictures, can't be stressed enough. Take LOTS of pictures. Makes it easier when you have that one part left that you can't figure out where it goes.

Label everything, as said above. Makes for a much easier re-install. An FSM or Haynes is also your best friend, if you haven't got one..get one. It will help you through this process.

kyle_22r

just tell yourself, "it's not as hard as it looks."

always works for me

yotamanbill77

I keep telling myself that exact phrase "it's not as hard as it looks". I labled everything i could but i didnt take any pictures bad part is i thought about it and did'nt do it. I have a haynes manual, and a little common sense. I got the new engine today, but I'm still waiting in the head. It sure looks nice on the engine stand. I plan to install the head and all timing componants before i put it in the truck. I cant wait to get started. I'll keep you guys posted. yotatech kicks a__.

kyle_22r

it's really not so bad. on the '89-95 trucks, the vacuum diagram is simpler than the earlier ones, and i think most of the electrical plugs are color coded and straightforward. i took pics with my digital camera, but didn't need to use them in the end.

yotamanbill77

still waiting on head-story of my life!

yotamanbill77

I finally got the head, tried to install. Now i have a question. When i removed the old motor from the truck i realized that some previous owner had replaced the original powerplant with a pre 1985 22r. I had planned on using the old rocker arm assembly and head bolts, i cant really remember why . I tried to install the head but most of the bolts bottomed out in the block before they tightened down the rockers. I know enough that i did'nt wrench on them so no damage was done. I took it all back off to see if the bolt holes had anything in them but there was nothing. I compared the new and old head and they appear to be the same hieght. So i guess the question is are the pre 85 bolts longer? Is the pre 85 rocker assembly shorter than a new one? Or is it because the newer block isnt tapped as deep as the old ones? Now i'm wishing that i had got everything brand new, I would greatly appreciate a point in the right direction. Do i need new bolts or a new rocker assembly or both?

kyle_22r

ok, lets determine what you've got first. is the engine you're currently working on a pre-85 22R(round exhaust ports on the head, and no "flying saucer" shaped boss on the driver's side of the block)? DO NOT try and put a head from a pre-85 engine on an '85-later engine, or vice versa. it just plain won't work.

the bolts are different from late and early, due to the different deck heights and head thicknesses. the rocker assemblies are compatible though.

yotamanbill77

Both the new engine and new head are 85-95, If what u r saying is true than i cant use the old head bolts from the pre 85 engine. I can use the pre 85 rocker assembly, correct? I'm taking your word for it since u sound like u know what you're talking about. I ordered all new head bolts this morning from my local toyota dealer because they said they can have them thursday morning, more expensive but quicker than the local chain auto parts store. I want to be ready to drop the motor in by saturday and with a little luck i can still make it happen. I really appreciate the advice. I'll let u guys know how it goes after i get the new bolts tommorrow.

--------------------------------------------
93 toyota 4x4 ext. cab. 4 inch lift. 32 in. super swampers

kyle_22r

yep, rocker assemblies will swap, but the head bolts are a different length early vs late. since both head and block are both the late version, you should have no problems. good luck

yotamanbill77

I have problems! I got everything in and tried to start it. I can only get it to start for a few seconds at a time and its really rough. It starts quickly and every time i turn the key but only 4 or 5 seconds at a time.Its backfiring out of the air intake on the manifold. I"m almost positve the timing chain is on right but when i installed the distributor i noticed that to get the rotor to point at the #1 terminal i had to either set it adjusted as far as it could go to the bottom of the hold down slot or as far to the top of the hold down slot. what im trying to say is that installed one way i can only advance the timing because its bottomed out on the adjustment bolt. I can pull out the distributor, move it one tooth, and reinstall but then i can only retard the timing because its bottomed out on the hold down bolt at the opposite end of the hold down slot. Shouldnt it end up with the hold down bolt in the middle of the slot so i can advance and retard the timing so i can fine tune it? The chain was installed with the key on the crankshaft straight up. This puts the dimple on the crank gear at the 6 oclock position. I put the chain on with that tooth in the middle of the bright link in the chain. I then aligned the other bright link with the dimple in the cam gear(my chain only had 2 bright links, 1 on top 1 on bottom). The bright link on the cam gear ended up pointing directly straight up with the crankshaft bright link pointing straight down. This is the only way to do it that i have ever heard of but this is my first time. Could it be something else like bad injectors or bad gas or something like that? Any and all help will be greatly appreciated, This is my only mode of transportation.

kyle_22r

what is the position of the crank when you stabbed the distributor? usually you'll set it to whatever amount of advance you're aiming for(line up the mark on the pulley with the desired advance on the oil pump) and line up the reluctor star on the distributor with the pickup. usually gets it close.

are you using a timing light? much better way of doing this job, you can be sure.

84sr5yoty

"Its backfiring out of the air intake on the manifold."


Backfiring out of the intake (or carb. if so equipt.) is a sign of too far retarded timing. Backfiring out the exhaust is too far advanced timing.

yotamanbill77

The crank pulley was set at the five degree mark on the the oil pump, which is where ive been told is the correct setting for a 22re. I already pulled it out and reset it at 0 degrees. The adjustment was so minute that it seemed to make no difference in the position of the rotor. What do you mean by the reluctor star? Do you mean the rotor? Please explain. If i cant get it running more than a few seconds at a time can i still use a timing light?

kyle_22r

when you set up the distributor, you put the rotor on, point it to 12:00 and then stab it in. it should turn to about the 10:00 position, then pull the rotor off and you'll see the reluctor star on the shaft. directly underneath it there's the magnetic pickup. you take the nearest tooth on the star and align it with the little "line" on the pickup to set the initial timing.

yotamanbill77

At this point i believe the timing is good. I started from scratch and set the timing back on zero and reset the distributor. i'm confident everything is in good shape. The truck starts quikly everytime and i dont even have to give it gas. It sounds great for about five seconds and then dies, also it will start to die instantly if i try to give it gas after i start it. I know the fuel pump is pumping good. I would think if it were bad gas it would'nt start so easily and sound so smooth for the first 4 to 8 seconds. If it were the fuel relay it would either work or it would'nt, right? I've changed the EFI relay and head relay for good measure. Is there some other fuse or relay that would shut the engine down after the initial start-up? I checked the injectors before i put them in by zip tieing them to the fuel rail and laying a paper towel in front of them and cranking the engine, they all seemed to be working ok. Of course thats not a very exact scientific way of doing it so now i just dont know were to go from here. I dont want to tear it all apart to get at the injectors if that may not be the problem. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. special thanks to kyle 22r. thanks for all your help.

kyle_22r

might look into some issues with the fuel pump. i know that way these are set up, the fuel pump is allowed to pump while cranking, then after that, the AFM takes over fuel pump operation. are you sure the AFM is plugged in, or any wires frayed?