txclimber

Well here's the scoop. My 1986 4Runner is tired. 283k. Leaking headgasket, fouled out spark plug stuck in cylinder head, valves in serious need of attention, and timing chain that needs to be changed. And then there's me for some reason thinking I would take on holiday project as if I didn't have enough else going on. Oh yeah, I'm not a mechanic either so this could get ugly. I'm hoping with the help I get from all of you, we can get through it. I've read a lot of rebuild posts and you guys get it.

Goodies: New Street RV head, 268c Cam, Timing Kit all from engine builder.

The bottom was rebuilt around 200k so I'm really hoping it's still ok. I don't have the time, energy, or cash to do a complete rebuild right now. We shall see what it looks like when I crack it open.

My parts came in today and I'm stoked to get this going. I'm going do some easy stuff tonight and see where it goes. Any and all help and advice along the way is welcome. Thanks...here we go!

flyingbrass

Welcome to the first timer head replacement / engine rebuilding club. Good luck. Take and post pictures.

toyotabull

just remember its hard to get the timing cover on after you torque the head down and take pictures of it before/as your tearing it down and that will make it easier on you too

txclimber

Thanks flyingbrass. Last night went pretty well. I didn't get to do a lot, but somehow I was out there working for over two hours. Here's what I'm starting with:



Pretty good start. Drained all fluids. Removed radiator, fan, and shroud. Already broke a bracket on radiator. JB Weld to the rescue!



The big victory of the night was the crankshaft pulley bolt. I was terrified of doing the "starter trick" and really hoping to get around it. I wanted to feel it out before I tore too much stuff of. 4th gear, e-brake and a little pull on the breaker bar was all it took. Whew.

Moved everything to TDC.

Removed distributer cap and plug wires and a few vacuum hoses. Lots of labels slow things down for a newbie like me. Better safe than sorry.



Broke this thing too. Anyone know what it's called and where I can get one? It's the little black plastic hose holder in the center.

txclimber

Got a lot done today. Got the intake manifold off with a lot of work. Every time I thought I had all of the bolts out, I'd find another one. But only after lots of pulling and twisting and cussing.

I'm getting a little nervous now. Unplugged and unhooked a lot of stuff today. Labels, labels, labels. Hope it all goes back in.



Here are today's victims:





Had to get in some pretty creative positions to get all those bolts out.

Somebody please tell me the exhaust side is going to be easier.

Teuf

It is............... good job so far, looks like you have labeling dialed. I did mine in spring, never thought i'd get it done. Yeeeeeha.

txclimber

Ok, I need a little help. What does the tiny screw in the bottom of the fixture (red arrow) that secures the main fuel line to the delivery pipe (in the circled area)?



I'll get a better pic tomorrow of the actual part.

I messed with it in a failed attempt to get it off and now I don't know how much to screw it back in.

Lumpy

Well first off let me say welcome!!! You have a fine little project here. It's really not as bad as it seems. The head on these are not all that terrible to do.

Now to your question...The thing circled is the fuel line to the cold start injector (Or some may say "cold start valve" like me, I see it more of a valve than an injector but what ever). You do not have to remove it from the fuel rail it can just stay like so. The bolt you took out has a hole through it at the base and is hollow to allow fuel to flow and there should also be 2 small (brass maybe) compression washers that will like to elude you. Keep an eye on them as they are a bit important.

Good luck and were here to help!!!

92 TOY

Good job man.
My understanding is those are "crush" washers and what I understand about them is I guess they are a "1-time-use" piece. I've found them for about $1 when there was question on another thread about that. On mine, I only see one, I guess I need 2, so I will be buying like a dozen (LOL..no, really, because I like extra stuff).

Good deal on the crankshaft bolt. I believe that is one of the "trials of fire" you must survive.

Looks like you have alot of the big stuff knocked off the old list already.

txclimber

Thanks everyone!

Gnarly4x: That's exactly what it is. Too late, I already messed with it. Is it supposed to be screwed all the way in?

Lumpy: Different gizmo, but I took special notice of the one you are talking about. On your piece I was wondering if when I screw it back together, will the hole be lined up or do I need to check that?

92toy: I had it much easier than you with that crankshaft bolt. I'm certainly not the Hulk so I assume mine just wasn't that tight.

ozziesironmanoffroad

tx, when i took my crankshaft bolt off when i had to replace the seal under there, i just used an impact. had no problems. lookin good buddy, keep it up

highonpottery

iTrader: (1)

good luck!

when i did my crankshaft bolt, i did the starter trick and ended up snapping a reducer socket like a piece of glass - my breaker bar is 1/2" and my set of 6pt sockets are all 3/8". i could have seen things going way worse with my 12pt, 1/2" socket set and the torque of the engine.

just remember to learn from others' mistakes and don't do what i did when you put it all back together: for whatever reason (maybe the excitement of getting all done and back on the road), i forgot to torque down the bolt on the front of the camshaft all the way...that could have been REALLY bad. started it up the 1st time and was running great, adjusted timing, 2nd start it sounded like absolute poo poo...decided to take valve cover back off and was like "why is my cam gear crooked? good thing i didn't let it run any longer...but now she's back on the road, yay!

75k5toy

Howdy climber, hey if you r not there yet, don't forget the skinny bolt from the head to t/c cover. it's always covered with oil. good luck.

pruney81

You're making some solid progress man, I'm curious to see what kind of shape that block is in. Did you get new head bolts from engnbldr as well? I'm not totally sure about the 22re but I know on the 3VZE they are torque to yield and should only be used once.

874runnersr5

looks fun man.. best o luck!

flyingbrass

I don't think Ted advises loosening head bolts after they've been torqued to final.

His suggested loosening/tightening routine is to help mate the threads together as you're working up. Something like: 50%, back off a 1/4 turn, 75%, back off a 1/4 turn (all tightening and loosening done in proper sequence), then to final torque and don't loosen them again.

http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showth...087&page=&vc=1

22R/RE head bolts aren't TTY and can be reused if they are in good shape. A new set doesn't cost much though. IMO, if any old bolts are the least bit marginal, replace them all. Then you can cut a groove or several in one of your old bolts to use as a chaser to clean out the holes.

txclimber

Wow. I really appreciate all the advice you guys are giving me. Real solid stuff.

Highonpottery: Holy S@%&!!! That's exactly what I was afraid of. Something about taking the biggest baddest tool I own and attatching it to something that spins around at high RPM's just sounds scary. Shrapnel is never a good thing. Hope you dodged it all.

I got new headbolts too. I will definitely use the old ones with a groove to chase the threads, seems like a great idea.

Gnarly4x: Thanks for the info. Got that little screw all snugged up. Let's hope I didn't mess it up.

txclimber

A couple of "by the ways":

I got my 4runner a few years ago from Pruney81. He recognized his old baby from the photo. Thanks pruney, she's been good to me.

It is my daily driver so I have to have this thing up and running real soon.

txclimber

Ok now for the update:

I logged in a 10 hour day yesterday lot's happened.

First area of attention, exhaust manifold:



It was here where I developed my new love affair with PB Blaster. That stuff works miracles. Came right off no problems despite rust galore.

Things went so smoothly I decided to focus here:



I tried to get a little creative with the power steering pump. I didn't want to take it out, but I didn't want it in the way either. Don't know if this is standard operating procedure or not but it sure seems to work:



Here's a look at the timing guts. Notice the small plastic piece missing from the top bolt hole of the driver's side guide. Who knows how long thats been that way.



Is that broken guide the reason the chain wore into the cover like this:



Got this tired old thing off too:



With the head out of the way I was able to button up the front end. New gears, new timing chain and guides (metal). Didn't intend on replacing the water pump but when I got it off noticed that the weep hole had been dripping. Since I'm here I should take care of it. A quick trip (30 min one way) to the parts store and I'm good.

Put it on my new cover, switched out the oil pump (what are those arrows for on the oil pump gears? do they need to be lined up a certain way?).

And...................



............TA DA!



Now for a preview of the next episode:



How do these piston heads look? #4 is heavy with carbon buildup. That plugs been fouled out for a while.

Some of the headbolts were oily, some smelled like they were burned, and some were carbonized. Are these signs of something that I should investigate?

pruney81

I'm pretty sure it's normal for the head bolts to have oil on them. If it was me I would maybe try to clean some of that carbon off with a wire brush or something while the head is off, but maybe someone more knowledgeable will chime in on that. No water in the cylinders is a good sign though! I think it's good practice to clean the carbon off with a wire brush and some solvent then suck the chunks up with a shop vac if you have one.