Huntingtruckcletus

93 pickup 2.4l 22re
New longblock
new tps#4
new spark plugs and wires#4
new injectors#4
new distrbutor cap#4
new fuel fitler#4
new fuel pump #2
all the above has 288 miles on it.
So I put a new longblock in my 93 toyota pickup and started having problems. My original motor had 220k miles and had developed a spot in the throttle where it would stumble/misfire. After blowing the head gasket the rob bearings went out. I changed to motor #2 that i got from a junk yard. ran perfect until it also had a rod bearing go out scaring up the crankshaft and cracking the block. Motor #3 aslo ran good until it slung a rod through the side of the block. I am currently on #4 and its being a pain in the butt. I bought it new offline and put it in. It runs fine at idle. I had a problem that when i was accelerating i had a spot in the throttle that would misfire and stumble then when i passed that spot it ran fine again. I changed the spark plug wires and my problem got better from about 15 miles. When i killed the motor and cranked it back up it had changed. Now the motor will stumble anytime i get it over 2400-2500 rpms. if it gets over 3k rpm and is at WOT then it just sounds like its idleing. I havent been able to find anything on whats wrong. Only code im showing is one for a knock sensor which has never been hooked up and the 2nd and 3rd motors ran great. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

additional info
Egr not hooked up the line was caped off at afm when i bought it
tested for vacum leaks with b12 and found none.
has symtoms cold or hot
adjusted the valves .08 and .012 with motor warmed up
timing set to 5 degrees btdc jumped 12-14 degrees not jumped

Huntingtruckcletus

Went out today and cleaned my throttle body really good thinking that it may be stopped up because it has over 200k miles on it. I cleaned it really good then put it back on and there was no change.

Huntingtruckcletus

Pulled the distributor.. When turning I can hear all 4 injectors hitting as we'll as all 4 spark plugs.. Thought it could be the ecu temperature sensor unplugged it an the motor won't even start.. Does this mean its working? Is a knock sensor unplugged enough to do this an if so why have the other motors ran fine?

Huntingtruckcletus

I found it. i have a bad gas line under the intake going to the fuel filter. I pulled the cover off it and it has collapsed with age. Anyone know the part number or anywhere i can get the fuel hose?

wheelinndealin530

Those lines have been discontinued, you will have to get one custome made or buy a used one. I have used hose lines if you cant find any good ones in your area

wheelinndealin530

Ive been having similar symptoms, stumbled under load between 1000 and 2000 rpm but only when warm, never at idle or in neutral. Gradually got worse. Checked timing cap and rotor, pulled cat to make sure not clogged. I checked the coolant today and it was about an inch low( the top of the radiator fins were showing) so i topped it off, warmed up the truck and took it for a 15 min drive. Seems to be fixed and back to full power now, ill drive it more this weekend to make sure. Now i gotta figure out where my coolants going

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Check the rubber gasket on the radiator cap.

If you squeeze the upper hose and can hear the air blowing and sucking and no bubbling in the overflow, it's time for a new cap.

Huntingtruckcletus

We're do you think I could get this line made? I made the hose that goes to to the other side of the fuel filter I was wondering if I could do it to the front one but I think it's made of a different type of hose.. I'm not loosing coolant at all.. And my stumble is almost gone now that I unbolted the fuel filter from the bracket an tied it up to where it runs almost perfect with a little stumble at about 3/4 throttle.. I can still accelerate in 5th gear even though at 75 I'm only running 4000 Rpms in 4th gear.. 5th gear doesn't get used much.. I'm going to try to find a whose from a place in silsbee Texas that has about 250 older model Toyota trucks. I'm hoping he will have a good hose.. I'll let y'all know what I find. I will also see if he will ship just in case someone on here needs to find one of these hoses.

BamaYota1

If you are constantly running without a knock sensor, it can be a big part of why you are on your 4th motor. Iirc, knock sensor code retards timing and causes fuel to go rich.

Huntingtruckcletus

well I have the knock sensor but i have no clue where the wiring for it went. Ive search and searched for it and havent been able to find it anywhere in my wiring harness. Im going to try to search somemore for it but its crazy how much stuff ive had to put on all these motors to get the new ones to run right. The original motor had a bare minimum of sensors hooked up, and no vacuum lines except for a couple nessecary ones. Do you know where i can get a wiring diagram to see where my knock sensor wiring goes to try to help find it. I appreciate the help. I wasnt really sure how much of and effect the knock sensor had.

Huntingtruckcletus

I found the fuel hose and it's only gonna be 15$ but still no luck with the knock sensor

BamaYota1

Without the knock sensor, your truck will never get into closed loop. Some people time around the factory limp mode, and say their truck runs great, but it does not run the same as if the sensor is installed and the ecu is seeing correctly.

You need a pinout of the ecu to find the wire coming out of the ecu harness. I had bad wire on mine when I bought the truck, and had to run a new one, so if you can't find your wire, you had might as well run a new one. It will take you all of 15 minutes to do, and you will clear the knock sensor code. You need an insulated type wire, though. Lots of people use coax cable. On the knock sensor side, you just need a female crimp on connector to crimp on the solid copper center wire. It simply goes onto the male connector on the sensor itself. On the ecu end, you can terminate directly to the ecu with the center wire of the coax, or crimp or solder the wire to the original wire. Some people go one step further and take the silver wire in the coax and ground it to the case of the ecu.

I personally used GTO wire which is the wire used for neon, and I have had no trouble. If you have a local sign shop, they would most likely give you a long enough piece for free, then you can crimp on a connector for the sensor, and splice into the original wire.

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/

This is the factory service manual.

http://lakebox.dnsalias.com/photos/1...rt/1993ECU.jpg

This is the pinout. Just find the knk wire, and that is the wire that should be running to your knock sensor. You can trace it if you like. It should be sticking out of the wire bundle somewhere right beneath your intake along with the oil sender wire if it is there. I believe it is a thicker brown wire on our trucks, but I may be wrong.

Huntingtruckcletus

Okay thanks! I'm going to tear into it when I get a chance an see of I can find it or run a new one. There's another sensor below the knock sensor,I'm thinking an oil pressure, but I'm not sure but the wires missing for it too. That's not showing any codes though. Do you think the truck is safe to drive until I can do the knock sensor or should I just park it until I can fix the knock sensor? I'm going to find a knock sensor before I tear into it but I can't afford to pay 132$ for one. It's not in my budget at the moment.

BamaYota1

You can probably drive it for now, just keep your ears open for anything that sounds like an engine knock. You can get the sensor at a junkyard. They rarely ever go bad. Install the new sensor, run a new wire, and be ready to retime. Might be a good idea to pull your o2 and look at it to make sure all the excess fuel hasn't clogged it with soot. I'm sure the inside of your tailpipe is thick with soot, right?

Huntingtruckcletus

It's not bad it's black but I wouldn't call it thick.. I don't think it has any more soot then it should but I'm gonna pull it an check it anyways. I don't have a code for o2 sensors but anything that may be wrong I need to fix. I drove it today and it is running great now but I'm gonna keep babying it till i can find a knock sensor

Huntingtruckcletus

In 588 miles I've burnt about 1/3 a court of oil. Is this good bad or what.. This is my first motor to have to break in.

BamaYota1

I'd say that is a bit much, but one of the gurus might be able to confirm this. Did you change you pcv valve when you installed your new motor? Have you gotten your knock sensor yet? If you went to the expense of buying a new motor, do yourself a favor and get the sensors required to make it run right. When in limp mode, you are dumping fuel into the motor, which cant be good for ring sealing and /or warranty. What codes are you showing?

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Is that city or hwy? What oil weight?

They used to actually list the oil consumption in the owners manuals, in case you have one laying around.

It should get better as every thing gets polished, then worse as it wears out. Quality is as or more important. Just keep an eye on both. If it makes you feel better, do a compression test and make sure somethings not "obviously" wrong with a particular cylinder.

Huntingtruckcletus

Okay so I've parked it now until I get the knock sensor. I ran a new wire but my old knock sensor is bad I'm waiting for the new one to come in. When I crank it I don't get the knock sensor code as fast as I used to.. It still pops up but it's usually after I drive it a couple miles. My local mechanic said he had this happen on his 22re an he changed the sensor and it iliminated the problem. That's 588 miles of mostly creeping. Ridind trails while hog hunting. It's probably got 70-80 miles on it going about 5-10 mph. I figured that may cause it to us more because the motor is running longer than if it was on the highway going those miles?

Huntingtruckcletus

Oh and I'm using castrol gtx 10-30 idk how good this oil is but ive been using it for years an i havent had any problem. I think im going to change the oil in it tomorrow. Anyone us oil filter magnets? are they as good as they sound? Oh and not really city or highway.. I drive it 30 miles at 55 then go hunting driving little pig trails and dirt roads then drive it the 30 miles home.