22RE I.A.C. Valve?? Where is it, and what's it look like??
#41
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You might try unplugging the Cold start injector on the plenum when cold and see if there's any change in starting. I did this and it was very hard to start. Vs plugged in it starts immediatly cold. Use a pick to remove the wire clip on the CS Inj electrical plug to make removing easier.1985 22re
Also check for pinched CS inj wire.
Also check for pinched CS inj wire.
What would that tell me? It's having a hard time starting cold as is, and stumbles a lot while idling cold
Something new I found today was that the flap inside my Supra AFM was stuck OPEN. I put it back and it ran better at idle. Then, a little while later, after some revs, it ran poorly and stunk rich....shut down and looked and the AFM door was again stuck open. I think this may be the culprit...wouldn't it tell the ECU that there is more air going into the motor when in fact there isn't (at idle) - causing a rich condition?
Any tips on how to make my door stop sticking open?
#42
#43
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Thanks PCmentor - makes sense - like how to isolate a dead coil with the coil on plug setups in newer cars - gotcha.
This morning I checked the AFM and the door was fine - not stuck open. I started it and got the same low, stumbling idle as before. Died a couple times before staying alive. In the first couple minutes of warmup, I disconnected the CSI plug - and plugged it in again - several times. Honestly really hard to tell if it made a difference because it was already stumbling so low. It wasn't a difference you'd notice like when you pull a spark plug wire or a coil on a modern car. Should it make a huge drop/kill the motor if CSI is working? I think I did it right but I really can't tell if it changed the motor's health when pulled/replaced/pulled....
This morning I checked the AFM and the door was fine - not stuck open. I started it and got the same low, stumbling idle as before. Died a couple times before staying alive. In the first couple minutes of warmup, I disconnected the CSI plug - and plugged it in again - several times. Honestly really hard to tell if it made a difference because it was already stumbling so low. It wasn't a difference you'd notice like when you pull a spark plug wire or a coil on a modern car. Should it make a huge drop/kill the motor if CSI is working? I think I did it right but I really can't tell if it changed the motor's health when pulled/replaced/pulled....
#44
Hi, what I did was to unplug it when off and tried to start it. It would not start after a couple trys.( I never made it run this way but I guessed you might be having a similar problem. I could have started it by holding the throttle down and cranking for a while I think.)
Then I plugged it in and it started cold right away. I am not sure if this is helpful to you.
Then I plugged it in and it started cold right away. I am not sure if this is helpful to you.
#45
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My 22rte runs good(not great) and i'm working out the knock sensor issue and I finally installed and adjusted a new Toyota TPS. Runs much better but still have a weak idle like it was trying to get air. I removed the iacv or aav and it was stuck closed. I bypassed it and of course it idles very high with the idle screw all the way in. I got a CEL on the way to work but I'm sure it was just my Knock sensor acting up again. Anyone else had an issue with the IACV stuck closed? My FSM says I can manually adjust it but when I had it at cold and running temp the valve didn't move. It looked rather clean inside but doesnt function like it should.
Thanks
Thanks
#47
#48
Oh....I see. I posted in the other thread wondering what seal you're referring to.
I don't recall the o-ring when I'd had mine apart. Can you take a pic? Otherwise, I'd have to pull mine off again (and it was sooo much fun) to know what you're talking about.
At this point, all I can tell you is the valve/plate is supposed to pass air through the large eliptical hole when cold, and then shut when it's warm. So, it appears that function is operational.
Maybe you could describe where the seal is within the valve?
Edit: So I'm sure we're on the same page, does yours look like this? It should.
I don't recall the o-ring when I'd had mine apart. Can you take a pic? Otherwise, I'd have to pull mine off again (and it was sooo much fun) to know what you're talking about.
At this point, all I can tell you is the valve/plate is supposed to pass air through the large eliptical hole when cold, and then shut when it's warm. So, it appears that function is operational.
Maybe you could describe where the seal is within the valve?
Edit: So I'm sure we're on the same page, does yours look like this? It should.
#50
its actually seeping between the two parts , there is a gasket in there 4 screws go in from front to rear ,been told if the diaphragm goes out starts pulling coolant up into the intake ,bad ju ju ,no sign of that ,just got the drip lol ill pull it when it warms up here ,got three other vehicles to drive ,its throwing the idle off ,if the CTS gets air across it , it throws the idle off ,dont like air in my cooling system ..... if it is the housing its shot ,and this is not an easy part to find new anyway ,,theres a few good used sources ive got ,but i hate buying used parts when it come to driveabilty / tune /emissions area
Last edited by bmrtoyo; 12-28-2015 at 05:23 PM.
#52
im gonna have to find one thats the fun part ,,never had a problem locating parts for my 86 ,but they are getting scarce in some areas i guess.
#53
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Is the gasket completely disintegrated? On mine, the gasket was in ok shape and I just added some FIPG and then put it back together. You may have to check the dealer or an online Toyota parts distributor. Or, just make your own gasket, easy enough.
#54
its a total wicked cold wave here when it warms up im going to dig into it its like 2 degrees here rite now ,,high of 12 tomorrow,, dealers here locally are saying item not in stock ,gasket ,or aux air valve ,,gonna hit web ,,,ive used lots of permatex in my time , k ill try FIPG when i get into it , i have two other rigs i can drive so im in no hurry ,appreciate the responses from everyone !
Last edited by bmrtoyo; 01-01-2016 at 01:49 AM. Reason: add
#55
Auxillary Air Valve 86 22re
yes i see in cutaway ,,on another forum guy said theirs a diaphragm in there and it goes bad and then coolant gets drawn up into throttle body and into the intake ,,BAD NEWS! if that happenshave heard i can go to 99 or newer intake and delete aux air valve argggggg
#56
I was having problems with a surging idle, and most of my internet research led me to believe it was a problem with the Idle Air Control Valve. This YouTube video showed a guy with the same problem getting it cleared by removing a clog in the coolant line that runs from the IAC to the thermostat.
My issue was on the other end of the hose at the inlet to the IAC that faces the valve cover, but it was indeed clogged at the IAC. Once I fished out the clog (it looked like fiberglass and rubber gasket material), my truck is idling smooth for the first time in over a year!!
I just figured I'd leave this here since my internet search led me to this thread among others, and hopefully some other poor soul will get their Toyota pickup fixed when they find this thread.
Last edited by dlister70; 01-03-2017 at 08:54 AM.
#57
Hey guys, just to stir the pot a little bit.
I had a high/surging idle in my '90 22RE for a while and it turned out to be the dash-pot, which is this little cylindrical spring unit that sits under the throttle assembly (where the throttle cable hooks on). It was malfunctioning and kept pushing my throttle open. They are designed to keep the vehicle from stalling by more slowly closing the air intake while immediately removing throttle pressure.
It would be a harmless thing to remove yours to just test out the vehicle by driving around without it and see if it makes a difference. I have been driving around without mine now for almost a year and it fixed my idle and haven't stalled out
I had a high/surging idle in my '90 22RE for a while and it turned out to be the dash-pot, which is this little cylindrical spring unit that sits under the throttle assembly (where the throttle cable hooks on). It was malfunctioning and kept pushing my throttle open. They are designed to keep the vehicle from stalling by more slowly closing the air intake while immediately removing throttle pressure.
It would be a harmless thing to remove yours to just test out the vehicle by driving around without it and see if it makes a difference. I have been driving around without mine now for almost a year and it fixed my idle and haven't stalled out
#58
well worth the effort to swap those parts, in order to get rid of the aav
#60
Surging with pushing in brake 22re
So could be low coolant or maybe the break booster?