rancherman

in order to save as much time as possible, would I be ahead to remove the 22re from 1994 pickup.. to change out both the clutch and timing chain? I have 4X4 and have seen in here I'd have to drop the front differential in order to remove oil pan (to retrieve any pieces of guide rail).


I know that if all I had to do is one or the other, then it's a no brainer
thanks

rancherman

ok, no response?? fine. I'll find out and 'see' if 'searching' in here is any help at all.
Not really. C'mon, 108 threads on pulling engines/transmissions/combo's of..... and all I really got out of this 'search' is: Plan on reading until your eyes fall out of your head... or run out of bandwidth for the day.
Then, all that lovely reading is pretty much toilet paper, a typical thread will be 40% do it this way, 40% do it that way, and the remaining 20% will be a combo of: 'why are you doing it anyways', or, 'mine does the same, I feel your pain'. Helpful? hmmm, not yet.
I saw plenty of guys getting flamed out for asking bonafide questions, but because they didn't 'SEARCH' they got nailed to the cross.
Well, when a 'search' comes up with 8-9 pages of 'results', some dating back to beginning times, You can't blame us for asking questions.... anyone with a half brain can see the confusion within a thread when there are 15 different 'best answers'.
Maybe, just maybe, SOMEONE "has built a better mousetrap' since the 'early days' ???


So onward I trod..... I tackled this engine pull 'armed' with a hint of hope from 'searching' in here..
I went ahead and separated the 22re from trans. and pulled motor from the truck.
Hint #1 for all those getting ready to do this:
Disregard all posts in here that say, "it's easier to pull motor, leave trans behind'. Also disregard all posts in here that say "it's easier to pull both at same time".
Forget about saving time by disconnecting ecu, and pulling whole harness with engine/trans.... It is all DO-ABLE sure, but there is nothing EASY about any of it!!! especially when you are disconnecting 20 year old plastic electrical connectors.. and other body fasteners that were originally designed to speed assembly line procedures!!!
Cut the electrical tape at the body/wiring harness hangers. leave the plastic tab hanging in the hole... use zip ties to re attach.


The temptation to cut the intake manifold's bar out to 'free' the lower harness is great. Not sure why it hasn't been mentioned! When bolted up to plenum, that bar has no use what so ever. I didn't, So I wasted 2 hours prying off the lower harness to snake it back up through.
(I wanted the dang thing OFF, to facilitate cleaning, reassembly!.. pretty hard to do when it's 10 below zero, and it's hanging on a dumb wiring harness...suspended in the engine bay)


Don't sweat the 2 top bolts on the bellhouse. Don't go off and spend your hard earned dollars for extra extensions, wobble sockets. Just remove the rubber part of the motor mounts, both sides and lower the engine as far as the frame will allow. I had just enough room for a jive ol 3/8ths ratchet, 17mm socket and a foot of cheater pipe. Easy peasy. (do both from the passenger side).
Engine was a little reluctant to separate, no big deal. there is a small notch by where the exhaust down pipe attaches.... put a tire iron or large screw driver in there, and shake the motor a little 'against' the screwdriver.... Up and down a little helps too (with the hoist.)
Speaking of exhaust, don't sweat the busting of the 3 stud/flange mount. 1 busted on mine, the other 2 nuts rounded off before they even broke loose. I took a torch and blew off the remaining nuts. After getting the manifold off (after engine was out) I heated up all three ears, and easily backed out all three ruined studs.
Don't bother screwing around tryin to save a dumb manifold with heli coil if you ruin a thread..... Just drill it and tap with a larger stud, hell, use a good ol 3/8th stud! Im pretty sure the cast won't mind if there is an sae 'inch' fastener in there! Besides, the cost of a helicoil kit, is about the same as a Dorman aftermarket manifold, COMPLETE with all gaskets and hardware!


Don't assume everything in here is gospel. (pfft... Gospel: According to WHO?) I knew my new-to-me truck needed a timing chain set, and clutch when I bought it. the recent blown head gasket was just a bonus. After tearing it down, I found my short side chain guide was MIA, only the retaining ear was there. The rest of it is presumably being digested in the oil pan. The long side guide rail is all there, although it's cracked at the top hole.
Totally opposite from what a newb will read in here
Oh, btw, a 3/8ths extension is the perfect tool for hydro pushing the pilot bearing out of the end of the crankshaft... as long as the seal is good on the inside! If not, and you have a wire feed welder, just knock/destroy the inner race out with a punch, get all the balls out of there, and weld shrink the outer race. That dink bearing doesn't take much, 3 little bubble welds placed right in the ball runway... works like a charm. shrunk it down and it fell right out. Time? 30 seconds. No beating on it like a wild ape. Just put your negative lead on the crank front snout, you don't want to energize through-the-bearings.


I have the whole thing in the house, I carried the engine minus the flywheel and exhaust manifold by myself. Trans was a little lighter. I WILL re assemble the whole thing; engine, trans, and wiring harness BEFORE going back in the truck.
I'll use my pack mule son to help me out the door with the complete assy. I got no qualms of putting the whole shebang on the extended arm of my cherry picker... hell, I've had a 1000# cummins dangled on it.
Oh, just 'swinging' the sway bar down for clearance probably wont be enough.... unless you rod ends are so wore out it actually 'falls down'.. Probably have to loosen/remove the attaching link bolts too.
I apparently was the first to ever remove the driveshafts... man, those flange bolts were a real bastard to break loose! apparently there was a generous amount of loc tite ... I used a torch to expand the nuts.. once broke loose, they spun right off. Oh, fyi: using the torch underneath a truck with an open fuel line.... have someone standing by ready to dial 911/ drag you out by the ankles.


After getting the head off, It took about 1 second to see the #4 hole was the bad cylinder. top of piston was pretty clean, and exhaust valve was orange. After releasing head torque, the cam didn't want to rotate as easy either... methinks I got a sprung head too. No matter, new head and cam is on the way. My rockers look perfect. New head bolts to replace the 20 year old soldiers.. The 2 center bolts on the exhaust side were pretty eroded/coked just above the threads! I was lucky they came out.. I won't waste money on buying a cleaning tap. I'll set the block on it's end, and spray some gun cleaning solvent, use cheapo brass bore brush and 'have at it'.... then rinse with a cheaper pb blaster/wd40. Use a nozzle small enough to get clear to bottom of holes and compressed air to finish the cleaning..... several times if needed.


I ordered a butt load of parts before I even started last week, I figured with the blown head that I'd need my old head rebuilt. So, for a few bucks more, I got an engnbldr pro head, 261 cam for $346. I then went over to rockauto, and got aisin oil and water pump, Cloyes HD timing chain set, fel pro top end gasket set, fel pro head bolts, oil pan gasket, Luk flywheel and LUK clutch kit.. ( last flywheel I had surfaced cost more than a brand new $50 LUK) I took a chance and didn't order a new timing cover, Other than the chain marks from lack of guide.... it'll do. pretty sure it hadn't rubbed-through.
I am not freshening up the bearings or rings. Oil pressure was halfway or a tad more on the gauge, and my oil quality was visually good after 3000 miles. Just a dark amber. I believe my rings are still doing their job... my cylinder walls have no ridge, yah, there is the normal thrust side rub marks.
I gotta have this thing back together this weekend... I"ll worry about my bottom end when it needs addressing.
any newbs with questions, just pm me... I'll be more than happy to help you out!