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I think there 6 ply? They're Federal Couragia MTs, 33×12.5×15. Not sure how all the tire lingo works so maybe someone can tell me, Federals website shows under the specs its rated PR 6. Other sizes in this tire were PR 10, I think thats the ply rating but im not sure. It was the only section that showed 6 or 10 after the code? Tire shows tread ply 2 rubber + 2 steel + 2 polyester, but then show sidewall +2 polyester so does that make it 8 ply? Not sure on this, anyways yes im sure there 4.10s I counted the tire to yoke revolutions and it confirms what the vin plate says. (2 tire revolution to 10 on the yoke is how you tell.) I put all new gear oil in tranny and diffs about 5 months ago and have no leaks so heat friction isn't the issue. The distributor I ordered showed up today but the hairlips sent me the RE one so have to wait till next week for the right one to show up.
Last edited by ChinkTruck; 12-09-2016 at 09:02 PM.
So here we go, finally got the distributor in the mail ordered from discount body parts.com. installed and first thing I noticed was that the vacuum switch is facing the opposite direction. No big deal, as long as it works. Get it in and break out the timing light, dialed in perfect at idle and notice it seems to have smoothed out quite a bit. Kind of eliminated that"chug chug" you get with a weber carb. Awesome everything seems great. Then go to test drive to see if uphill is any better but dont even get down the road! Any throttle and it wants to bog down and die! Great, so I get it home and throw the timing light on it, still dead on at idle but when i rev the motor instead of advancing it goes retarded like 30° or so!
Vacuum switch facing the exhaust side. Ok so heres the kicker, is this even a 22r dizzy? I throw the old dizzy back on to see if it doing the same thing, some research showed it could be a bad switch in the ignition module that could cause the retard timing so wanted to narrow it down to that or my new dizzy. Guess what old one worked as it should, advanced with throttle, but heres the other thing with the new dizzy, my old one had a bad cap, the center contact broke off so when i went to swap the new cap on the old one it DIDN'T fit! See photo. Old cap on left, new smaller cap on right.
Old cap measured approx. 3 5/8ths eye to eye on the bolt holes. New one 3 1/2So whats up here? Is this maybe a dizzy for an old 18r? Has anyone seen a small cap dizzy for a 22r and I just got a bad one? Whats going on here? Needless to say the question remains if a new dizzy will fix my prob, will have to wait on a new one.... Again.
I live in a hilly area so I know what you are talking about. I run 33.10.50's and I have 4.88's.... and it is a dog. My truck has an 22r. Its old but relatively healthy. I did run these tires with 4.10's for a bit and it was dangerously slow. 5th gear was useless and 4th gear kinda worked downhill...haha. Gears really give these small engines leverage.
Yeah definitely sending it back, I was just curious if anyone knew what motor the dizzy is for? Really wierd that it fit perfectly, helical gear obviously the right size and pitch, but then the other differences make it pretty obvious its not for a 22r. Discount body parts web site showed I got the right part as far as parts number goes, same number stamped on dizzy as shows on their site. So dont buy from them, they got their ˟˟˟˟˟ wrong. Maybe its just some one off chinese piece of crap? In any event dont buy their 22r distributor.
So finally got a quality distributor put in, (A1 cardone select) and wow, throttle response came alive, also pulls noticeably better through all gears, its a little better going up hills but not great, still crappy compared to my old fuel injected truck. So 4.88s are coming soon. I know this will improve the problem but I still feel like its a band aid solution, i still dont feel the truck should have this much trouble when my old RE truck worked so much better up hills, (with the same gear and tire set up) maybe thats just the nature of the two? The one other thing I can think of is my weber is slightly rich, jet wise. Speed mixture screw is out just under 1 1/2 turns, so not to far off webers instructions but still off. They note anything under 1 3/4 turns is too rich. Would this cause a noticeable difference? Its still dialed in at best lean idle but slightly off the speed screw specs. Will be rejetting in any case but wonder if anyone has some insight on this.
You can use spark plug color to help jet your carb, but a wide band O2 sensor, or exhaust gas analyzer is the real deal to find out whats really going on.
I don't really know these Webers, but most carbs only adjust idle mixture and maybe low speed circuit with an external mixture screw.
Changing the main jets is what usually determines fuel/air ratios at speed and load on most carbs.
I had a similar issue out of my 87 22r 5 sp 4wd running 31x10.50. I pulled the cat off of it and it did help improve somewhat , but as spoken off before, it is only a small 4 banger and in southwest va mountains it too struggles.
I had a similar issue out of my 87 22r 5 sp 4wd running 31x10.50. I pulled the cat off of it and it did help improve somewhat , but as spoken off before, it is only a small 4 banger and in southwest va mountains it too struggles.
+1 on this.
Cat removal made a world of difference for my four cylinder. I can only imagine it helping with a 22R as well.
+1 on this.
Cat removal made a world of difference for my four cylinder. I can only imagine it helping with a 22R as well.
already has the cat removed, has what you'd call a "poor mans header."
Twin pipes from the manifold to about where a cat would be, then its single pipe to a stock muffler, no tail pipe. Like to keep it somewhat quiet as i use it as a hunting rig. So dont think thats a major issue, although header to flowmaster would definitely be an improvement HP wise.
already has the cat removed, has what you'd call a "poor mans header."
Twin pipes from the manifold to about where a cat would be, then its single pipe to a stock muffler, no tail pipe. Like to keep it somewhat quiet as i use it as a hunting rig. So dont think thats a major issue, although header to flowmaster would definitely be an improvement HP wise.
you should really look into a header. It's expensive but so far, it's been the best investment I've made.
you should really look into a header. It's expensive but so far, it's been the best investment I've made.
yeah I have been looking into one, I know these engines are "asthmatic" and getting them to breath is the best HP improvement you can do for cheap. Been looking at the Hedman header, just can't really justify a $400 LCE header, some people say they run into clearance issues with a hedman while others dont, dont suppose you have any info on this do ya?
12-09-2016, 07:04 PM
