Nice!! I understand about trying to save a little. Mine is my DD. My decision would be different bc of that. Hope everything goes smooth!!

Nice looking pickup, btw.

 

Thanks! The fact I don't drive this truck often is definitely playing into how much I want to spend on it. I'll be happy with a decent running motor, it doesn't have to be good as new. Someday when the money is there I'd like to convert it to efi and go all out, right now I'd just like to get it road worthy again and not break the bank doing it. running it with 3 cylinders wasn't that bad, the hills just sucked. So I'm not going to be hard to impress!

 

Not at all , just turn the cam to where it would be if you were at TDC compression.

 

lol you do realize the head bolts are what hold the rocker shafts preventing the cam to push up on the whole rail right? when not bolted to the head the cam lobs will push up on the rocker shafts. Making your measurements useless.

For this same reason, is why when you torque a head down all of your rocker arms should be loose and not set from the previous build of the motor.

 

The rocker arm assembly is held down with the head bolts. So I'd have to put the head back on the block. So I can't check with the head off. Regardless, I'm ordering a new head anyways. I should have checked while it was still on though, oh well.

 

Oh, xxxtreme beat me to it. Ha ha. He had the right idea, just forgot one little factor. Happens to the best of us.

 

OPPS... Sorry ,spacing again.

 

you can c-clamp both sides of the rail down, but then you would risk bending the rail or the standoffs.

 

Has anyone else noticed that engnbldr stuff on eBay is usually the same price as his website except you have to pay shipping on eBay? I will probably order the head soon and noticed eBay has shipping charges. Since his heads are new castings there isn't a core charge correct?

 

right no core charge.

 

After further inspection it is obvious #1 exhaust was bad. It lost its seat and was up there too far. Didn't catch that at first.

My cam is out of spec so I'm thinking the 261 from Eb. 261 is better on low end right? I want one better for cruising around town, lower rpms. No redline high end stuff in this truck. Better mileage? His website doesn't give much specifics.

 

just about have the motor taken down completely. i don't get too far only working on it for 30 minutes at a time, a couple days a week. i hope to have it completely taken apart after this weekend. i just bought a hg, rear main and front seal from the dealer. $100, ouch! i'll feel better using oe parts for those so it's worth it. the front seal was the late model one which is thinner. i did a ton of research on doing a flex hone and i think it is a very good option to use if you want to save money. however... i got a quote from a local shop and for them clean it and hone it is only $45. thats how much i would spend on the flex hone so it was kind of a no brainer. them cleaning that nasty pig is worth $45 bucks alone. if it needs bored and decked then i am going to go ahead and just cough up the dough. i'm cheap, but i want a good motor so i'll do it right. blah,blah,blah. i am going to buy the pistons and rings from the machine shop, NPR. i've heard thats a good brand and they are familar with it. i am torn between buying a new head assembly from engnbldr or from that same shop. engnbldr is a little cheaper when adding an rv cam and they don't have a core charge so i'm leaning in that direction. so far so good!

 

it looks like i lost all interest in this thread......

maybe this will help!

 

i dropped off the block at the machine shop wednesday at 11:30am. i got a call on thursday at 1pm saying it was done. holy crap they were fast! (and yes i verified casting number, it was indeed the same block i brought in) i just picked it up today and after careful inspection i am very impressed! i went to sunwest automotive in medical lake washington. they are a full engine rebuild shop who deals a lot with 22r engines. thats the reason i choose them. they were very professional and friendly and i didn't feel like i had to second guess anything. the price was also way better then i thought it would be.
$45 bore .020 over and hone
$35 clean, paint and freeze plugs (i supplied plugs)
$45 deck
$35 timing cover (decked w/ block)
$80 new npr pistons and rings
$260 total after tax

i think thats a good price, especially considering the new parts. the fact i got it painted by them makes me happy too cause i'm sure it will hold up better then any rattle can job i would have done. plus i was not excited to paint it and probably wouldn't have. they also had me bring in my connecting rods when i picked it up so they could check those as well, that was also nice of them. so moral of this story is i would reccommend this shop to anyone in the area. i hope to start putting it together this weekend but i still got a few weeks before i'll get it done.

 

if you have not already bought the eb head it would save you some coin just to have your old head rebuilt and just go with the cam from eb. i had my head rebuilt at the machine shop all new seats and all new valves, new valve guide seals re-surfaced ect ect. i think the head work was only around 150

 

EB has a performance head though.. that motor looks amazing! im jealous!!!!

 

that's no problem if that's what he is going for, but when i read the thread he is trying to do the re-build on the cheap doesn't drive the truck often and wants the engine serviceable again. I do see that he decided not to skimp on the machine shop work on the block i think he will be very happy with that decision down the road.

 

ha ha, things changed. i was trying to do it on the cheap at first but i decided to spend a few hundred more and do it right and do it better. the economy has really picked up as far as my industry is concerned so i'm pretty much guaranteed all the overtime i want through the summer at least (15-20 hrs per week). so on that note, i did decide to do the full block machining work up. i also ordered a new head through eb with the 268 cam. my head was fully re-worked about 5 years ago and it needed some welding and re-surfaced so i think it was smart to just get a new one. as i mentioned earlier i also ordered a head gasket and front and rear seal through toyota. it was 100 just for the 3 parts but i know they are much better then the rock. just received some block off plates from lc engineering today. egr, egr rear plate (back of head) and the air injection block off plates for exhaust manifold. i'm not emissions tested and decided since none of that stuff was working correctly anyways i should just get rid of them. i got a gasket set, bearing set, freeze plugs, oil pump, timing set and rock rings in a kit from engnbldr on ebay. it was a good deal since it didn't have pistons which i wanted to get from the machine shop. i basically got the oil pump and rings for free cause i would have spent the same for gaskets, bearings and timing kit individually. i won't use the rings (any buyers? they are std size) and i'm not sure yet about oil pump. so thats where i'm at now. excited to get it put back together!

 

in that case im jealous im probably going to go with the eb cam down the road. but 3 years on my rebuild it still running great 195 compression across the board. i went cheap on my rebuild more or less along the lines of your original plan, top end rebuild and refreshed the bottom end with new stock bearings re hone and stock rings. everything in the block actually looked really good. could still see light factory hone pattern in the cyl walls bearings looked good. mine was done because the timing chain ate threw the cover and at 256k miles and the valves were so worn you could about shave with them. if i had to do it over again i would of had the block machined. i will be keeping this truck for a very long when the head comes off again at some point i will be going all out. iv put over 180k miles on the truck sense i first got it when i was 16 shooting for a million mile odo rollover (might take a long time now that this is not my primary vehicle anymore but i will never sell it)

 

Ezrider same thing here, I've had this truck since I was 16 and I'll never sell it. I think I could have got good results doing the home hone job but I talked myself into just spending more and only doing it once. I don't drive the truck much but if it runs really good then I'm sure I'll want to drive it more! Sounds like your rebuild went well, nice job.