1995 3vze Timing belt removal and replacement "With Lots Of Pics"
#41
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Thanks - need one more bit of info
Thanks for the great write up. I have to replace my water pump and until I read your instructions and saw the pics, I was planning on having someone else do the work to the tune of around a grand. I am unemployed right now and that would be a big $$$ bite, but since I am I have the time. I have been reading some areas that indicate that you have to take the cam sprokets off and that requires special tools. My question is: Did you have to take the cam sprokets off? It didn't show as one of your steps. Why would you want to take the cam sprockets off? I didn't understand the reason that some sites were telling me to take the cam sproket off. Is there a bearing that sometimes needs replaced? Please respond as soon as you can. This is the only thing that has me worried and I start the teardown on Tuesday. Again great write up and pics.
#42
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Thanks for the great write up. I have to replace my water pump and until I read your instructions and saw the pics, I was planning on having someone else do the work to the tune of around a grand. I am unemployed right now and that would be a big $$$ bite, but since I am I have the time. I have been reading some areas that indicate that you have to take the cam sprokets off and that requires special tools. My question is: Did you have to take the cam sprokets off? It didn't show as one of your steps. Why would you want to take the cam sprockets off? I didn't understand the reason that some sites were telling me to take the cam sproket off. Is there a bearing that sometimes needs replaced? Please respond as soon as you can. This is the only thing that has me worried and I start the teardown on Tuesday. Again great write up and pics.
If you don't replace the seals at the time you do the belt then you run the risk on down the road of having to do them at a later date...I TOOK THE RISK.....
The seals are cheap but.... yes the tool needed to hold the cams is expensive, but if you search you can find some hand made tools by other members that will do just as good of a job to hold the cams while removing the bolt
Good luck and please post your progress , and I would appreciate anything you may have to contribute to this thread
#43
Very informative thank you so much .... wish i would have found this before i started would have made my life much easier.... ok the crankshaft pulley bolt starter loosening technique... can some one explain this to me in extreme detail.... the way i am reading this i put the breaker bar on the nut rest the bar on the driver side frame and turn the key??? is that right??
#45
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Excellent write up Buckz.., Like someone else said, this is a keeper. Its value got boosted by your mild manner responses, which I think caused others to add their valuable input, from which we will all benefit.
Thanks
Harry
Thanks
Harry
#47
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your all are welcome....I'm no expert just a do it yourselfer, and any extra good legitimate advice is always welcome....now if I could just get "Christine" to behave and fix herself I would be much happier with her(4runner that is)....the nasty gremlin vibrations are a real PITA
#49
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buckz6319 - as everyone else has said 'thank you, thank you, thank you'. Half way through the job and it's been a breeze with your write up!
Wanted to add my 'trick' for getting the crankshaft bolt out. I do not want to use this method to get it back on because I'm reluctant to put 181 ft lbs against the water outlet, but I didn't have the chain wrench when I started so I devised a quick solution for removal.
I used a serpentine belt removal/installation bar and just drilled two holes in it that I marked using the ps pulley holes as a template.
EDIT: Wanted to mention that I confirmed I am at exactly TDC on the #1 cylinder in the image below so it is a good spot to line it up for removal.
crankshaft_bolt_removal.jpg?t=1260814735
Wanted to add my 'trick' for getting the crankshaft bolt out. I do not want to use this method to get it back on because I'm reluctant to put 181 ft lbs against the water outlet, but I didn't have the chain wrench when I started so I devised a quick solution for removal.
I used a serpentine belt removal/installation bar and just drilled two holes in it that I marked using the ps pulley holes as a template.
EDIT: Wanted to mention that I confirmed I am at exactly TDC on the #1 cylinder in the image below so it is a good spot to line it up for removal.
crankshaft_bolt_removal.jpg?t=1260814735
Last edited by laketrash; 12-14-2009 at 09:19 AM.
#50
Hey buckz6319, nice write-up as everyone has said! I'll be doing this within the next week as long as the parts come in(ordered everything from ebay) and I'm planning on using the FSM as well as this write-up. Do you think it'd be easier to work if I removed the spark plugs in the beginning? If I did I'd probably just swap em out with new ones at the same time... but I'm really strapped for cash at the moment and the $30ish for new plugs could wait if the wires aren't really gonna be in the way. Thanks!
#52
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Can someone please direct me to a forum or post a picture that can help me replace all my accessory belts... I am confused how to put them all back together... I just replaced my cooling fan bracket and I am working to put everything back together.....I am looking for an image like this: http://z.about.com/d/autorepair/1/0/c/Y/41747495.gif but for a 1990.... This picture linked is for an 1987
Last edited by MntManFuentes; 03-15-2010 at 10:54 PM.
#56
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I no longer have that online photo account
if those of you who want some specific pics, PM me with your email address and I will be glad to send some to you while I still have them
if those of you who want some specific pics, PM me with your email address and I will be glad to send some to you while I still have them
#59
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