1995 3vze Timing belt removal and replacement "With Lots Of Pics"
#21
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: GA
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm no expert on anything..... I'm always learning from others to better help me to help others
#22
Thanks!!
It took two of us about an hour to figure out how to get the bolt off, I think 196,000 miles might have made things a little tighter.. I see the tensioner now, I sorta passed right by it, that explains a bunch... Can't thank you enough for the write-up and the help.. I'll let you guys know if it actually starts back up and runs in a few days...
Many Thanks!!!
Doug
Many Thanks!!!
Doug
#24
I put the belt on and the tensioner was installed... So I cranked the engine over a few times manually to see in the engine marks lined back up. All the engine markings we in the right place, but as stated above the belt did not line back up, It was off by one tooth each revolution of the belt. (thanks for the head up.. it was one of those "is it me or.." Everything else appeared to work right.. Man this was a great post Buckz...
As for the job, it was pretty easy to do most of it, a little dirty with the fluids. The toughest part by far was getting the harmonic balancer bolt off, then finding the tensioner was a mental problem... Oh, I'm sure getting it back on with 172 lbs will be another adventure...
Took about 6 hours so far and I have about an hour or two left of work.. It is mostly light work, and if you go in with a plan to get that tough bolt off, you could get things done a lot faster.. Again, this site is so much easier to follow then the repair manual and simple text steps..
What are you working on next Buckz!!
As for the job, it was pretty easy to do most of it, a little dirty with the fluids. The toughest part by far was getting the harmonic balancer bolt off, then finding the tensioner was a mental problem... Oh, I'm sure getting it back on with 172 lbs will be another adventure...
Took about 6 hours so far and I have about an hour or two left of work.. It is mostly light work, and if you go in with a plan to get that tough bolt off, you could get things done a lot faster.. Again, this site is so much easier to follow then the repair manual and simple text steps..
What are you working on next Buckz!!
#26
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: GA
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
freddy...thanks...and I'm glad that this thread helped you, and that I thought about taking pics step by step of how I did the replacement
However everyone will do it somewhat differently and to each their own way and this is just another available tool
However everyone will do it somewhat differently and to each their own way and this is just another available tool
Last edited by buckz6319; 08-01-2009 at 04:26 AM.
#27
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: GA
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#28
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: GA
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I put the belt on and the tensioner was installed... So I cranked the engine over a few times manually to see in the engine marks lined back up. All the engine markings we in the right place, but as stated above the belt did not line back up, It was off by one tooth each revolution of the belt. (thanks for the head up.. it was one of those "is it me or.." Everything else appeared to work right.. Man this was a great post Buckz...
As for the job, it was pretty easy to do most of it, a little dirty with the fluids. The toughest part by far was getting the harmonic balancer bolt off, then finding the tensioner was a mental problem... Oh, I'm sure getting it back on with 172 lbs will be another adventure...
Took about 6 hours so far and I have about an hour or two left of work.. It is mostly light work, and if you go in with a plan to get that tough bolt off, you could get things done a lot faster.. Again, this site is so much easier to follow then the repair manual and simple text steps..
What are you working on next Buckz!!
As for the job, it was pretty easy to do most of it, a little dirty with the fluids. The toughest part by far was getting the harmonic balancer bolt off, then finding the tensioner was a mental problem... Oh, I'm sure getting it back on with 172 lbs will be another adventure...
Took about 6 hours so far and I have about an hour or two left of work.. It is mostly light work, and if you go in with a plan to get that tough bolt off, you could get things done a lot faster.. Again, this site is so much easier to follow then the repair manual and simple text steps..
What are you working on next Buckz!!
now to answer your question "what are you working on next buckz"
I'm still working on a vibration or roughness in either the engine,t.c. or related areas, and will be glad when I get that fixed because it really is getting to me..
I hope it all goes well for ya when you start her up...
#31
I got a question. I am on a budget and cant afford to spend much and I am pretty sure my timing belt broke. Do I have to change all the parts you did? or can I just slip on a new timing belt?
#33
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: GA
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You can change out just the belt without having to replace any other related parts.....but.....In my opinion I would replace all of the parts...
I am on a budget also, but the timing belt and related components are all vary important not just one piece.I do have a used hydraulic tensioner that you can have I removed it from my 4runner (if you have that type?)....I purchased a new one as shown in the pics above. I really didn't know if my old one was bad until I removed it and I wanted to have one on hand just in case.It turned out that the used one was good and tested good without no leakage...but I put the new one in for good measure sense I had it
If you want the old one... all you have to do is pay for shipping...it will save you some bucks....just PM me and we'll talk
I am on a budget also, but the timing belt and related components are all vary important not just one piece.I do have a used hydraulic tensioner that you can have I removed it from my 4runner (if you have that type?)....I purchased a new one as shown in the pics above. I really didn't know if my old one was bad until I removed it and I wanted to have one on hand just in case.It turned out that the used one was good and tested good without no leakage...but I put the new one in for good measure sense I had it
If you want the old one... all you have to do is pay for shipping...it will save you some bucks....just PM me and we'll talk
#34
Personally, While you were in there I would have replaced the cam seals and crank seal... It is an extra 2 minutes and a $5 seal that if it starts leaking after the fact you have to do it all over again. Also, I don't take the radiator out to do it... too much extra work. Use a big piece of cardboard over it just so you don't damage it working and you're fine.
For those of you who asked, the best way to get the crank pulley bolt off is with a chain wrench and a large, long 1/2" drive breaker bar (or I have a huge snapon ratchet i use because of the swivel head).
Nice write-up though, most of that stuff is right on. a few extra steps I wouldn't have taken, but I've done a few
For those of you who asked, the best way to get the crank pulley bolt off is with a chain wrench and a large, long 1/2" drive breaker bar (or I have a huge snapon ratchet i use because of the swivel head).
Nice write-up though, most of that stuff is right on. a few extra steps I wouldn't have taken, but I've done a few
#35
Mines a 88 v6 pickup. Looks to be the same as mine but ill take a closer look tomorrow when its light out and see to make sure. The more I think about it the more I think you are right I should probably change out the T-sat and the water pump atleast
#36
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: GA
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
pb4ugotobed........thanks for the input....I also would have used a chain wrench but didn't have one however I was at sears last week and they had one $29.99
#37
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: The Gorge
Posts: 273
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
For those of you who asked, the best way to get the crank pulley bolt off is with a chain wrench and a large, long 1/2" drive breaker bar (or I have a huge snapon ratchet i use because of the swivel head).
I got a kit on eBay that had all the pulleys, hydraulic tensioner, timing belt, water pump and seals for $160. While you're in there, you might as well fix everything.
I also found this thread helpful while working on the front of the engine so thanks from me as well.
#38
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: GA
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
GorgeRunner....thanks for the input...and your welcome....and I also used the breaker bar and starter trick, and it worked fine for me.....
However torquing the crank bolt back to 181lbs was a challenge...to over come that challenge there is lots of different ways to accomplish this.....
I used my own method...I purchased a 10'(foot) chain that had a 850 lb pull and the link opening had to be 3/8" if I remember correctly.I took one of the ps crank pulley bolts(I think their grade 11)and put it through one link and screwed the bolt in finger tight.I then took the long remaining end of the chain and wrapped it around the frame on the right side(drivers side), and then pulled it tight over to another bolt hole on the crank pulley, and put a bolt in finger tight.I then took the remaining chain length and wrapped it around the left side(passenger side) frame down and back over to another bolt hole and install finger tight and to the remaining bolt hold and secure....so when I was finished the chain had a crisscross pattern and it had all 4 bolts holding it in place and the slack that was at the end I just moved it out of the was.I torqued that bolt with no problem......
just my way to do it.....I hope it will help someone.....
However torquing the crank bolt back to 181lbs was a challenge...to over come that challenge there is lots of different ways to accomplish this.....
I used my own method...I purchased a 10'(foot) chain that had a 850 lb pull and the link opening had to be 3/8" if I remember correctly.I took one of the ps crank pulley bolts(I think their grade 11)and put it through one link and screwed the bolt in finger tight.I then took the long remaining end of the chain and wrapped it around the frame on the right side(drivers side), and then pulled it tight over to another bolt hole on the crank pulley, and put a bolt in finger tight.I then took the remaining chain length and wrapped it around the left side(passenger side) frame down and back over to another bolt hole and install finger tight and to the remaining bolt hold and secure....so when I was finished the chain had a crisscross pattern and it had all 4 bolts holding it in place and the slack that was at the end I just moved it out of the was.I torqued that bolt with no problem......
just my way to do it.....I hope it will help someone.....
Last edited by buckz6319; 08-06-2009 at 07:57 AM.
#39
Registered User
I second that notion on seals. I had my first 22re timing chain replaced by a good mechanic. Why he didn't replace the crankseal is beyond me, but it blew out a few years later. It was only a few hour job to fix, but still.......
Oh, and if a 3vze timing belt breaks, no damage is likely to happen. In other words, it's non-intereference and will just quit running <<<<hint: a good way to tell if it's broken<<<<<. (Also, you will get no compression)
Last edited by thook; 08-06-2009 at 07:08 AM.