Blurr...thanks for your input also, It's good to get positive feed back and I welcome all
I'm no expert on anything..... I'm always learning from others to better help me to help others

 

It took two of us about an hour to figure out how to get the bolt off, I think 196,000 miles might have made things a little tighter.. I see the tensioner now, I sorta passed right by it, that explains a bunch... Can't thank you enough for the write-up and the help.. I'll let you guys know if it actually starts back up and runs in a few days...

Many Thanks!!!

Doug

 

I did mine thanks to you!!
With my laptop nex to me

 

I put the belt on and the tensioner was installed... So I cranked the engine over a few times manually to see in the engine marks lined back up. All the engine markings we in the right place, but as stated above the belt did not line back up, It was off by one tooth each revolution of the belt. (thanks for the head up.. it was one of those "is it me or.." Everything else appeared to work right.. Man this was a great post Buckz...

As for the job, it was pretty easy to do most of it, a little dirty with the fluids. The toughest part by far was getting the harmonic balancer bolt off, then finding the tensioner was a mental problem... Oh, I'm sure getting it back on with 172 lbs will be another adventure...

Took about 6 hours so far and I have about an hour or two left of work.. It is mostly light work, and if you go in with a plan to get that tough bolt off, you could get things done a lot faster.. Again, this site is so much easier to follow then the repair manual and simple text steps..

What are you working on next Buckz!!

 

Great Job Dwayne !!!! Thanks For all the pics ...

 

freddy...thanks...and I'm glad that this thread helped you, and that I thought about taking pics step by step of how I did the replacement

However everyone will do it somewhat differently and to each their own way and this is just another available tool

 

RMA...your welcome...and I have used some of your pics to help me out as well thanks

 

rdougcrowe...if I'm not mistaken the cranks shaft bolt torque will be 181 ftlbs...as mentioned in a above post I did a chain trick along with using the ps crank pulley bolts to be able to keep the crank from rotating while torquing the bolt

now to answer your question "what are you working on next buckz"
I'm still working on a vibration or roughness in either the engine,t.c. or related areas, and will be glad when I get that fixed because it really is getting to me..

I hope it all goes well for ya when you start her up...

 

nice job, you help me save a lot of money. thank you

 

jtm559......thanks......glad it could be of some help...

 

I got a question. I am on a budget and cant afford to spend much and I am pretty sure my timing belt broke. Do I have to change all the parts you did? or can I just slip on a new timing belt?

 

I would assume that you can just change the belt but if it broke it there may be more damage than just the belt.

 

You can change out just the belt without having to replace any other related parts.....but.....In my opinion I would replace all of the parts...

I am on a budget also, but the timing belt and related components are all vary important not just one piece.I do have a used hydraulic tensioner that you can have I removed it from my 4runner (if you have that type?)....I purchased a new one as shown in the pics above. I really didn't know if my old one was bad until I removed it and I wanted to have one on hand just in case.It turned out that the used one was good and tested good without no leakage...but I put the new one in for good measure sense I had it

If you want the old one... all you have to do is pay for shipping...it will save you some bucks....just PM me and we'll talk

 

Personally, While you were in there I would have replaced the cam seals and crank seal... It is an extra 2 minutes and a $5 seal that if it starts leaking after the fact you have to do it all over again. Also, I don't take the radiator out to do it... too much extra work. Use a big piece of cardboard over it just so you don't damage it working and you're fine.

For those of you who asked, the best way to get the crank pulley bolt off is with a chain wrench and a large, long 1/2" drive breaker bar (or I have a huge snapon ratchet i use because of the swivel head).

Nice write-up though, most of that stuff is right on. a few extra steps I wouldn't have taken, but I've done a few

 

Mines a 88 v6 pickup. Looks to be the same as mine but ill take a closer look tomorrow when its light out and see to make sure. The more I think about it the more I think you are right I should probably change out the T-sat and the water pump atleast

 

pb4ugotobed........thanks for the input....I also would have used a chain wrench but didn't have one however I was at sears last week and they had one $29.99

 

You can also use a 1/2" breaker bar; put the socket on the pulley bolt and rest the breaker bar against the frame on the driver's side of the engine compartment. Tap the starter motor and the bolt should come right out.
I got a kit on eBay that had all the pulleys, hydraulic tensioner, timing belt, water pump and seals for $160. While you're in there, you might as well fix everything.
I also found this thread helpful while working on the front of the engine so thanks from me as well.

 

GorgeRunner....thanks for the input...and your welcome....and I also used the breaker bar and starter trick, and it worked fine for me.....

However torquing the crank bolt back to 181lbs was a challenge...to over come that challenge there is lots of different ways to accomplish this.....

I used my own method...I purchased a 10'(foot) chain that had a 850 lb pull and the link opening had to be 3/8" if I remember correctly.I took one of the ps crank pulley bolts(I think their grade 11)and put it through one link and screwed the bolt in finger tight.I then took the long remaining end of the chain and wrapped it around the frame on the right side(drivers side), and then pulled it tight over to another bolt hole on the crank pulley, and put a bolt in finger tight.I then took the remaining chain length and wrapped it around the left side(passenger side) frame down and back over to another bolt hole and install finger tight and to the remaining bolt hold and secure....so when I was finished the chain had a crisscross pattern and it had all 4 bolts holding it in place and the slack that was at the end I just moved it out of the was.I torqued that bolt with no problem......

just my way to do it.....I hope it will help someone.....

 

The manuals give instructions for inspecting. Use your own judgement, inspect parts, and replace what needs replacing. It's just not "necessary" to replace what isn't broken. Besides, you could use the money to have your injectors rebuilt. If they have over 100k on them, it's a good idea.

I second that notion on seals. I had my first 22re timing chain replaced by a good mechanic. Why he didn't replace the crankseal is beyond me, but it blew out a few years later. It was only a few hour job to fix, but still.......

Oh, and if a 3vze timing belt breaks, no damage is likely to happen. In other words, it's non-intereference and will just quit running <<<<hint: a good way to tell if it's broken<<<<<. (Also, you will get no compression)

 

X2...Great posting in this thread