Having idle issues with my 22re. Its very irratic. I have checked vacuum leaks and can't find any. I checked TPS and all ohmed out per specs. I have checked cold start injector sensor it seem to check out. Temperature sensor readings are confusing me. When I ohmed it out at ambient temperature it read O.L which I am assuming open loop. Question is. Should I be getting a reading other than that at ambient temperature. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

Well, according to the FSM, the temperature sensor, the one that feeds the gauge in the instrument cluster, should read about 2 k ohm at "room temperature", or about 68° F. That's 2 thousand ohms. You have to set the meter on a scale that allows 2 kohms to be about the center of the scale. Most meters, that's probably the 20 Kohm scale, or even better, a 10 Kohm scale, if the meter has it. Most meters though will have scales like 2 kohms, 20 kohms, 200 kohms. Obviously, you don't want the 2 kohm scale, because if the sensor is reading 3 kohms, for example, you won't be able to see it on the 2 kohm scale. It would just read O.L, which probably means OverLoad, not Open Loop.

If the sensor is at 212° , the boiling point of water at sea level, the meter should read 200 ohms. In between those two temperatures, it's a roughly linear ohm reading. IE: As the water temp the sensor is in, if you're going to try and do a temp test like dipping the sensor in a pan of water, and raising the water temp until the water boils, as the water temperature rises, the ohm reading should drop.

Does this help answer your question, or did you mean a different temperature sensor.? A picture of where you removed it from, if you did, would help. Or a picture of it installed. Picture's worth a thousand words

Pat☺

 

Describe erratic idle?

If it's idling too high, the fuel cut off will engage at 1,300 RPM when the brake is applied on a manual transmission. Low coolant will can cause erratic idle because it effects the auxiliary air valve.

I had erratic idle, and in the end it was caused by a sticking/bad auxiliary air valve. Installed a new one, and that fixed that mess.

RockAuto and others call it an idle air control valve or IAC for short. Standard Motor Products Intermotor IAC valve is the same as the Toyota part...just re-boxed...made in Japan.

http://www.teamtoyota4x4.org/archivi...e/fuelcutr.pdf

http://www.teamtoyota4x4.org/archivi...e/auxiliar.pdf