I have a 1993 Toyota pickup with the 22re I have replaced the coil and the igniter as well as the pickup coil and the ecu but I’m still not able to get it to run it will crank but not starting I’ve tried everything I know could anyone please help me out I live in the mountains so I need my 4x4 back. Thanks so very much

 

Do you have fuel pressure while cranking? Have you tried pulling a plug after cranking it to see if it's wet with fuel? Have you listened for the fuel pump to run with the key in Start, but the clutch NOT pressed? Have you tried jumping the B+ - Fp pins in the test connector, then listening for the fuel pump to run when the key is turned to ON? If it doesn't, you may well have a bad COR.

Have you checked to see if you have spark on a plug? Just hook your timing light's inductive pickup to a plug wire, and if it flashes, spark is on that wire.
Speaking of timing lights, have you checked the timing? Not easy if it won't idle, but can be done. At worst, set the crankshaft to #1 TDC (timing mark at 0), and look to see that the distributor rotor is pointing to te #1 plug wire connection. If it's pointed to the #4 plug, it's 180° out of position. Rotate the crank 1 rotation and check again.

Have you tried replacing the distributor cap and rotor? I've gotten a new cap a couple times that as a hairline fracture, and no spark on any wire.

Is the vane in the AFM free to rotate with NO restriction of any kind? Have you checked to see if the fuel pump runs with the vane open, even slightly, and the key on? Does the large tube between the AFM and the TB have ANY air leaks of any kind? The flexible pieces where it turns a corner at either end are prone to cracking when they get old and brittle.

Have you checked the idle speed adjust screw, to ensure the o-ring on it is still in good shape, not cracked or broken apart? It's the screw under the large cap screw on the left side of the TB, as you face it, from the front of the engine. Screw it down until it bottoms out, counting the turns, and fractions of turns, then unscrew it all the way out to check the o-ring. That way, when you put it back in, whether you replace the o-ring or not, you know where it was set. It gives you a good starting point if you need to adjust the idle speed. The o-ring is a readily available item at auto parts or hardware stores. Often as part of a set of o-rings of various sizes.
A note: Whether you put a new one on or not, apply a thin layer of Vaseline, or silicone dielectric grease, to it before installation. It makes the rubber last much longer, and seal better.

You only need a few things to get an engine to run. Air, fuel, and spark, all timed correctly. You need to determine which one is missing, then track down WHY.
BTW: Check to ensure the fuses are all good. Quick, easy process with a multimeter...

Ok, ok, shutting up now...
Pat☺