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1993/1995ish 3vze overheating... yes, I know. :(

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Old 08-19-2019, 05:27 PM
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Still struggling with this nonsense.

I been cleaning scale out of my radiator for weeks. Multiple flushes lots of distilled water, lot of cleaner. Engine has been timed and is advanced to 15. Timing belt has been replaced, water pump has been replaced. Oil is not foamy, and exhaust fumes are clear. My over flow tank now keeps collecting water. And the rad is not sucking it back in.

Question. So I am running pure distilled water in my radiator for now. When I use a gravity tank I get foamy water come to the top. Is this normal? I’m almost ready to set the truck on fire.
Old 08-20-2019, 04:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Eugetastic
Still struggling with this nonsense.

I been cleaning scale out of my radiator for weeks. Multiple flushes lots of distilled water, lot of cleaner. Engine has been timed and is advanced to 15. Timing belt has been replaced, water pump has been replaced. Oil is not foamy, and exhaust fumes are clear. My over flow tank now keeps collecting water. And the rad is not sucking it back in.

Question. So I am running pure distilled water in my radiator for now. When I use a gravity tank I get foamy water come to the top. Is this normal? I’m almost ready to set the truck on fire.
Questions for you, what is a gravity tank? do you mean the overflow tank? does your overflow tank have the pickup tube attached to the inside of the cap?
And an FYI comment, your cooling system works best with a combination of water and coolant, it keeps the water from boiling and from freezing and it prevents rust buildup as well as lubricating the water pump.
The foamy water in your "gravity tank" may be due to the flushing chemicals you have been using and may disappear when you add coolant.
Old 08-20-2019, 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by akwheeler
Questions for you, what is a gravity tank? do you mean the overflow tank? does your overflow tank have the pickup tube attached to the inside of the cap?
And an FYI comment, your cooling system works best with a combination of water and coolant, it keeps the water from boiling and from freezing and it prevents rust buildup as well as lubricating the water pump.
The foamy water in your "gravity tank" may be due to the flushing chemicals you have been using and may disappear when you add coolant.
Sorry, I meant gravity funnel. Basically it’s just a raised funnel that locks into place...
Yes, the overflow tank has a pick up tube.
I flushed the chemicals out for about 30 minutes with the truck running and water going in. My distilled water no longer looks murky. But I checked last night and found additional stone looking scale inside. See below.

Also, about the 50/50 mix. Yes, I agree. But distilled water should be able to manage the heat, I’m not adding antifreeze because it’s expensive, and I’m constantly emptying it to remove the scale looking rocks.


Old 08-20-2019, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Eugetastic
Sorry, I meant gravity funnel. Basically it’s just a raised funnel that locks into place...
Yes, the overflow tank has a pick up tube.
I flushed the chemicals out for about 30 minutes with the truck running and water going in. My distilled water no longer looks murky. But I checked last night and found additional stone looking scale inside. See below.

Also, about the 50/50 mix. Yes, I agree. But distilled water should be able to manage the heat, I’m not adding antifreeze because it’s expensive, and I’m constantly emptying it to remove the scale looking rocks.
If the tube from your radiator to the overflow tank is in place and doesn't have a hole in it, and the pickup tube inside the cap is in place, and it isn't pulling fluid back into the radiator when the engine cools down it means your radiator cap isn't functioning properly or there is a hole in the system that is keeping it from creating a vacuum when the fluid cools and contracts.
with the chunks of scale in the system they are blocking flow through the radiator, as you show in your picture.
Have you noticed any improvement?
Yes, the water should be fine for the time being until you are done flushing, but you should know that with coolant added it transfers heat better and when in contact with hot metal retain more liquid to metal contact instead of having a layer of boiling liquid, google "Leidenfrost effect". So it should run cooler with glycol added.
I can understand your frustration at this point. If it runs good in the winter maybe that would be a good time to sell it/trade it in.

Last edited by akwheeler; 08-20-2019 at 07:22 PM.
Old 08-20-2019, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by akwheeler
If the tube from your radiator to the overflow tank is in place and doesn't have a hole in it, and the pickup tube inside the cap is in place, and it isn't pulling fluid back into the radiator when the engine cools down it means your radiator cap isn't functioning properly or there is a hole in the system that is keeping it from creating a vacuum when the fluid cools and contracts.
with the chunks of scale in the system they are blocking flow through the radiator, as you show in your picture.
Have you noticed any improvement?
Yes, the water should be fine for the time being until you are done flushing, but you should know that with coolant added it transfers heat better and when in contact with hot metal retain more liquid to metal contact instead of having a layer of boiling liquid, google "Leidenfrost effect". So it should run cooler with glycol added.
I can understand your frustration at this point. If it runs good in the winter maybe that would be a good time to sell it/trade it in.
Interesting read on the Leidenfrost effect. It does make sense. I bought a genuine Toyota rad cap.. after all the work I’ve put into the truck it runs SO MUCH smoother than it did when I bought it. The rpms at idle are about half of what they were with little to no irregular idle, and I have about twice the power I, i no longer have to redline gears 1-4 to get up to highway speeds.
But I’m not sure about the cooling issue. It’s been months since I started dealing with it, and I don’t remember what it was like. Sometimes it’s better sometimes it’s the same. I did drive the truck 2.5 hrs at highway speed without stopping. With the heat on full blast it does manage to stay mid temperature but my legs are on fire. The truck does run okay with heat on but fan off. I think those scale stones are restricting the radiator tubes. I’ve removed and cleaned the radiator a dozen times. I also put my IDGAF pants on and did a diluted muriatic acid flush for a few minutes. That’s when the water finally cleared up(still collecting rocky scale on the tubes after a few days) I am thinking about doing a multi day white vinegar flush....
Old 08-29-2023, 07:00 PM
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Looks like an old thread but did you find a solution to your heating issue, Eugetastic? My 92 4runner V6 auto is having similar heat issues but only on steep hills or mountain passes with long uphills. I've replaced the fan clutch. Coolant/ thermostat is new and system is burped, new water pump in 2022 and the common thing we have that I'm now thinking is the culprit is the CSF radiator (replaced 2 years ago with new toyota rad cap. This is the first year I've put the truck to the test on long mountain passes since replaced). I had no over heating issues when I had my OEM rad before it cracked. I'm thinking of going aluminum radiator next as I'm seeing these CSF radiators getting mixed reviews online. Any feedback appreciated before I pull the trigger on an aluminum rad

Last edited by Seymour Raven; 08-29-2023 at 07:11 PM.
Old 08-30-2023, 04:06 AM
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Yes, I sold it and bought a Jeep. The person who bought it swapped it with a diesel. And hasn’t had problems since.

The heating issues I was dealing with came before i swapped the radiator.
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