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yes, coolant flushing with cleaners is your only choice other than stripping down the engine to poke and prod and ream out all of the passages.
yes, it is very strange that your engine is running hot, with or without the thermostat.
you said that it has a new water pump, so it would be very strange for it to not move the coolant properly, if it is the right pump and not spinning backwards.
I guess I’ll drain my coolant and try using a cleaner on her. I am going to give Prestone radiator flush cleaner AS105Y a shot. Maybe I’ll go two rounds with it.
Is a water pump that spins backwards a common thing?
I’m thinking I’ll do what I can in this order...
1/2) coolant flush cleaner x2
1/2) timing check
3) water pump
4) fan clutch
im under the impression that if head gaskets are on backwards I wouldn’t be able to go anywhere without them overheating almost immediately.
I guess I’ll drain my coolant and try using a cleaner on her. I am going to give Prestone radiator flush cleaner AS105Y a shot. Maybe I’ll go two rounds with it.
Is a water pump that spins backwards a common thing?
I’m thinking I’ll do what I can in this order...
1/2) coolant flush cleaner x2
1/2) timing check
3) water pump
4) fan clutch
im under the impression that if head gaskets are on backwards I wouldn’t be able to go anywhere without them overheating almost immediately.
If it were me and I had paid a shop for all that work I would have taken it back until they got it right... or when the temperature went up my foot would go down and they could buy me a new engine.
Do yourself a favor, like I have mentioned (and it has been seconded) CHECK YOUR TIMING FIRST.
I did not have a shop do the work. If it was me I would’ve done a complete engine swap. The guy I bought the truck from had the work done. And they blamed the radiator, quoted him 600$ and then told him to get lost when he said no.
Is a water pump that spins backwards a common thing?
im under the impression that if head gaskets are on backwards I wouldn’t be able to go anywhere without them overheating almost immediately.
I've seen it done before with external water pumps driven by serpentine belts, if you wrap the belt wrong you can spin them the wrong way and I have seen the wrong part purchased that was a reverse rotation for a different application, in your case it is physically impossible to spin the pump backwards because it is timing belt driven and they only came in one configuration.
as to the head gaskets, I don't know I've never mixed them up.
Did the previous owner say that the overheating started at the same time as the head gasket job?
I've seen it done before with external water pumps driven by serpentine belts, if you wrap the belt wrong you can spin them the wrong way and I have seen the wrong part purchased that was a reverse rotation for a different application, in your case it is physically impossible to spin the pump backwards because it is timing belt driven and they only came in one configuration.
as to the head gaskets, I don't know I've never mixed them up.
Did the previous owner say that the overheating started at the same time as the head gasket job?
He had the heads done about 6months ago and it ran fine for 3-4 months before it started overheating. This was mid winter and it was cold. I think this could’ve hidden the overheating issues?
So with that time frame it is possible for something to go bad if they used cheap parts.
He had the heads done about 6months ago and it ran fine for 3-4 months before it started overheating. This was mid winter and it was cold. I think this could’ve hidden the overheating issues?
So with that time frame it is possible for something to go bad if they used cheap parts.
Anything is possible, but like you said the winter weather was probably masking the problem.
Goodish news today. I’ve simplified my overheating issue. So, I overheat at highway speed because press the clutch when I get into a traffic area. And if I start to rev it up immediately it cools back off. Weirdly, I don’t overheat in my driveway. With my thermostat in, I start overheating when driving around and push the clutch. Basically it seems like unless I’m giving throttle I’m over heating. Sounds like a possible water pump?
I have an appointment for a timing check. In 2 weeks.
Goodish news today. I’ve simplified my overheating issue. So, I overheat at highway speed because press the clutch when I get into a traffic area. And if I start to rev it up immediately it cools back off. Weirdly, I don’t overheat in my driveway. With my thermostat in, I start overheating when driving around and push the clutch. Basically it seems like unless I’m giving throttle I’m over heating. Sounds like a possible water pump?
I have an appointment for a timing check. In 2 weeks.
Secondary goodish/ crap news. I decided to drain my radiator, found a ton of sediment inside. This is a new radiator I think I came out of the block. So I’ll be pulling that out and cleaning it. Then I’ll put rad cleaner inside for a couple days. And repeat!
The fan clutch went out on my 1988 325i and had no resistance when spinning it. I had to hold the rpms at 2000 to keep it cool, I could watch the gauge rise coming up to lights and fall when I got around 2000 rpms.
I also pulled the thermostat to try and give it more cooling, it helped a little but not much, but a new thermostat and fan clutch solved it.
That sediment isn’t helping at all though
There is a theory that running with no thermostat allows the coolant to flow through the radiator so quick that it doesn't transfer enough heat to the radiator. It's a sound theory but nobody has really provided any real data to back this up. I can tell you however, there is a bypass port behind the thermostat. When the thermostat is closed or missing, coolant is allowed to circulate throughout the engine and not through the radiator. When the stat opens, it closes off the bypass and redirects coolant through the radiator. Thats why on the back of the thermostats there is a small metal disc. That disc is the bypass valve. A thermostat is required to to properly cool these engines. Get a Toyota one. I was running into overheating issues on my 3.4 during the winter. I tried everything including 6 new aftermarket thermostats and running with out. An OEM one fixed it right up.
Last edited by Kolton5543; 07-15-2019 at 11:29 AM.
Sorry for the late reply. I’ve been working on other projects. I have ordered a new Toyota thermostat and and planning to order a new Aisin water pump.
I am planning to order a new pump because I believe the part installed was a super cheap aftermarket brand as was my thermostat. I believe my water pump could be failing.
I am under the impression that I can later instal a new fan clutch without removing my timing belt? Though my fan clutch seems like it works.
Secondary goodish/ crap news. I decided to drain my radiator, found a ton of sediment inside. This is a new radiator I think I came out of the block. So I’ll be pulling that out and cleaning it. Then I’ll put rad cleaner inside for a couple days. And repeat!
Originally Posted by Eugetastic
Sorry for the late reply. I’ve been working on other projects. I have ordered a new Toyota thermostat and and planning to order a new Aisin water pump.
I am planning to order a new pump because I believe the part installed was a super cheap aftermarket brand as was my thermostat. I believe my water pump could be failing.
I am under the impression that I can later instal a new fan clutch without removing my timing belt? Though my fan clutch seems like it works.
FYI my ignition timing was fine.
Finding the sediment in your radiator is the smoking gun, you need to flush your block and get all of that our that you can, changing the water pump and thermostat isn't a bad idea though.
The sediment is probably very gritty and running that slurry through the water pump may have worn down the fins on the water pump.
While you are at it you should try to find a complete fan shroud, your impression about the fan clutch is spot on, it's an easy swap any time, but I highly doubt you need one judging by your earlier checks.
Another test you can do to verify your fan clutch is working is to apply heat to the little coil on the front of it and see if it gets harder and harder to spin or locks up altogether, just don't overheat the coil.
When you refill your coolant use distilled water mixed 50/50 with coolant, the sediment in your system likely came from past neglect and tap water, the inside of your block has rusted and the scale has settled to the bottom, so flush the hell out of it.
Finding the sediment in your radiator is the smoking gun, you need to flush your block and get all of that our that you can, changing the water pump and thermostat isn't a bad idea though.
The sediment is probably very gritty and running that slurry through the water pump may have worn down the fins on the water pump.
While you are at it you should try to find a complete fan shroud, your impression about the fan clutch is spot on, it's an easy swap any time, but I highly doubt you need one judging by your earlier checks.
Another test you can do to verify your fan clutch is working is to apply heat to the little coil on the front of it and see if it gets harder and harder to spin or locks up altogether, just don't overheat the coil.
When you refill your coolant use distilled water mixed 50/50 with coolant, the sediment in your system likely came from past neglect and tap water, the inside of your block has rusted and the scale has settled to the bottom, so flush the hell out of it.
That’s the plan. I’ll let you guys know how it goes. Any tips?
The water pump I plan to order is Aisin WPT-032.
Last edited by Eugetastic; 07-16-2019 at 06:28 AM.
I’m having a hell of a time removing my crank bolt.
Also, my timing belt has some sort of groove cutting into it...see below.
Should i I be able to spin my water pump pully by hand with the belt still attached?
I have a spring tensioner, I’m under the impression that 94+ are hydraulic? And if I have a spring style tensioner doesn’t that mean I need a water pump WPT-030?
Last edited by Eugetastic; 07-16-2019 at 08:55 PM.
I’m having a hell of a time removing my crank bolt.
Yeah that one can be a pain!! Longest breaker bar you can find and some pipe to make it longer. For the damper there is a simple tool which can be made out of a piece of angle iron which will keep the motor from turning. There are examples here on yotatech. Some like the starter method.. long wrench, one end hooked under frame, turn the key for a sec and hope the damper bolt pops and not your wrench.
Originally Posted by Eugetastic
Should i I be able to spin my water pump pully by hand with the belt still attached?
There should be enough tension from the timing belt and belt wrap to create some resistance on the water pump pulley from it freely turning by hand. To be clear the water pump pulley is circled in red in your picture.
Originally Posted by Eugetastic
Also, my timing belt has some sort of groove cutting into it...see below.
Alignment issue maybe, on idler pulley #1 (tensioner), Idler pulley #2 (water housing between camshafts), or lastly the water pump pulley as those are the only ones that ride on the backside of the timing belt. The timing belt maybe running over the edge on any of those pulleys.
There should be enough tension from the timing belt and belt wrap to create some resistance on the water pump pulley from it freely turning by hand. To be clear the water pump pulley is circled in red in your picture.
It has some resistance, BUT I can physically turn in by hand without much effort.
Check the inside of your timing cover for rub marks, the timing belt looks like it has rubbed on something.
Also, the spring type timing tensioners are not self adjusting, loosen the center bolt on the pulley and rotate the crank two full turns clockwise stopping at TDC and tighten it again (I sometimes give it a little extra push before tightening, but that is not correct according to the manual).
I still think that your problem is all in the block and flushing is your #1 fix, but if the belt is slipping on the water pump it will add to your issues.
Check the inside of your timing cover for rub marks, the timing belt looks like it has rubbed on something.
Also, the spring type timing tensioners are not self adjusting, loosen the center bolt on the pulley and rotate the crank two full turns clockwise stopping at TDC and tighten it again (I sometimes give it a little extra push before tightening, but that is not correct according to the manual).
I still think that your problem is all in the block and flushing is your #1 fix, but if the belt is slipping on the water pump it will add to your issues.
I pulled my water pump off and has a bunch of rust in it. I don’t think it’s stainless. Plus there is a ton of rust inside the block. See below. Also, that water pump gasket was disgusting. I doubt they replaced it. Pump was replaced but ghetto fabbed to add an anchor for the tensioner.
I do see the timing belt belt has been rubbing on something but I have no idea what. The timing cover does have shear marks but not in the same vicinity.
So, drove 30 minutes without a heat spike guys.
I think I had a timing belt tensioner issue more so over a water pump issue. But, I’m glad I replaced the pump since the gasket was trashed and the pump was not for the right motor year (it was ghetto fabricated to fit).
I think the loose timing belt was causing the pump to slip.
So, drove 30 minutes without a heat spike guys.
I think I had a timing belt tensioner issue more so over a water pump issue. But, I’m glad I replaced the pump since the gasket was trashed and the pump was not for the right motor year (it was ghetto fabricated to fit).
I think the loose timing belt was causing the pump to slip.
Fail. Same thing is happening, she has heat spikes only after doing like 60+ for 5-10 minutes. And then “cools” off if you give her throttle.
07-10-2019, 06:52 PM
