zerohedspace

@Co_94_PU just did the sweep test on the afm and there are a couple spots where the resistance drops and climbs again. Makes sense that itll need to be replaced.

I still have to do a compression test and a fuel pressure test. But in the mean time I still need to drive the rig to work and back. And I just lost the 4wd. I traced it back to the vac tank and am wondering if any of you have any input on this. I was thinking about just building a new tank out of pvc and some caps and nipples, is it just a storage tank (like a capacitor in an electronic circuit)? is it not advisable to just remove the tank and connect the two vacuum lines together with a barb, at least temporarily? Cheers.

One step at a time
Merry Christmas!

92ehatch

The resistance on the afm can drop slightly. The ecu reads throttle angle and afm at the same time. You are looking for dead spots, reading open link or something way out like mega ohms.

if you used an auto ranging meter then they will show open link when changing ranges and can give a false reading. It's better to use manual range for afm testing.

skypilot

iTrader: (1)

Not a belt its a chain. Look at the camshaft, bet its lost a lot of lift and duration from poor oil. Did you have a valve job done while the head was off?

zerohedspace

Electronic tech background, so pretty comfortable around a meter. the afm read within spec and there is no visible damage on the resistance strip aside from right in the beginning where it is worn just a little, the resistance never dropped out or the opposite but it dig swing pretty good at one point on the sweep, from like 600ohms to 200 or so and back up again. if the afm is going to cause any issues with my engine I think it would be mild.
@ Skypilot, the belt chain issue was resolved in post 3, and thank you for your input. the camshaft didnt look too bad when I had it out, and on retrospect I would have liked to have done the valves when I had the head off. Ive got a buggered head stud hole on the pass side and when the head comes off again, im going to have to healy coil that hole and arp stud the block. project for when it gets warm out again.

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

A hydrocarbon tester also helps diagnose a head gasket issue. Fairly cheap and many tests in them off amazon. Pull the valve cover and look at the cam during a full rotation if you haven't already. I would rent a fuel pressure gauge before I replace the pump. But maybe pull the pump and clean the screen first.