scavenger45

So ive browsed around here for a while and looked at some other peoples stuff but im finding i lack understanding on certain terms and what-not. I have a 92 4runner 5 speed manual with a 3.0 liter v6 on 31x10.5/15r bridgestone dueler revos just had solid axle swap done and now wondering what the next steps are to building it up to be trail rig but i still want to maintain the ability to drive it on the highway and stuff to get to the trails. i want to go up to 33's or 35's not sure which would better. also do i need to remove front and rear sway bars or just front? also do i need locking differentials? or what is the difference between locking and the stock ones currently on my 92? i think this is a good start for now. anything pointing me in the right direction would be awesome. thanks!

xcfunrunner

How much of a lift do you have after the SAS?

JonnyBoy

You had an SAS done, and you don't know if you want or need lockers? And you have a sway bar on the front? Not trying to be rude or anything, but how can you know so little about the rig? Did you buy it this way?

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

If SAS no way it has a front sway bar.



:wabbit2:

scavenger45

when i got it it had ifs and i did a sas. it currently has 2 inches of lift on it. the rig was actually given to me for my birthday from my father when i expressed desire to learn about 4x4ing. so yes that is why i dont know much this is my first 4x4. ive done some reading so i understand some of what i need. i believe it has a center locking diff but what i am wondering is do i need ff/rr locking diff or is center good enough for most trails? it doesnt have a front sway bar as far as i know. im wondering if i need one or if i should remove the rear one because the front one has been removed? basically im just trying to figure out what my next steps are to get this truck on the trails?

Dude Man

So you have the know how to swap a solid axle under your rig but your unsure if the center diff is locked?

This doesn't add up..

Anyways, check out the sticky by AxelIke in the newbie section, awesome info for a beginner.

Your next steps for getting on the trail? There are none. Get out there.

I find the best way to modify a rig is to wheel it. Find out whats its strengths and weaknesses are, what breaks, what holds you back, what gets you further, what gets you stuck, what gets you unstuck, what your limits are, etc.

THEN go back to the drawing board.

There are plenty of modifications which will help you get down the trail but these are all dependent on your driving style, terrain, vehicle, etc.

A good start is more aggressive tires and a rear locker.

scavenger45

ok i guess i will just keep reading and try taking out. thank you. yes i know how to do the work that isnt the problem the problem is i dont know what makes a good 4x4 truck. no i have a center lock i know that.. that question was do i need rear or is center good enough? alright i guess ill just do that..

Discombobulated

I'm lost man. So lost

brianh699

Center diff locks are on full time 4wd vehicles and allow driveshafts to spin at different speeds so transfer case bind doesn't occur on road. Axle lockers make both tires on axle turn at the same speed increasing off road traction, wether you need an axle locker will depend on how you wheel it.

JonnyBoy

Ok, I'll give it a shot here. As somebody already stated, you should check out this thread for the basics: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120...mation-121264/
What I'll say, given my experience with my 4Runner, is that you will want to remove the rear sway bar so that the rear can come as close to matching the flex of the front as possible. Now with the added flex of the front, I'd only recommend that on the trail, leave it on for around town.
For starters, it might be good to wheel it with open duffs at front and rear, but I can say that my rear locker has helped me go easier on components more times than I can count, allowing me to just creep over stuff even though the majority of the vehicle weight is only on 2 opposite corners.
Before the locker or lockers, I'd get some armor that can take a hit to protect your body, though. Even before I got the rear locker, the rig was capable enough I got in situations I hit a rocker panel and rear quarter panel.
As far as the tire size recommendations go, it'd help some to see pics or get some specs on the SAS and the parts used. For instance, did you use a kit for the sas? Did you upgrade or at least rebuild the front axle before the SAS? 33's are pretty safe for stock axle shafts, but 35's tend to be where people start breaking the birfields unless they get a chromoly variety upgrade. If it's truly only lifted 2", you might have a tough time fitting 35's without trimming the body, too.

scavenger45

I apologize im not very good at wording what im trying to ask i guess. the kit i used was ordered off of allprooffroad. the components of the kit are:

Hy-Steer™ crossover steering featuring exclusive one-piece forged arms
Weld on Shock Hoops with braces
5100 Series Bilstein shocks
4" lift, long travel front leaf springs with bushings
1" lift Spring hanger kit with greasable shackles and frame tubes and jigs
Vented Land Cruiser style rotors (Allows use of IFS brake calipers)
1.5" Front wheel spacers
Front U-Bolt flip kit
Steel Braided DOT approved brake lines
Bumpstops
Steering Stabilizer and brackets

i used the axel from an '85 toyota truck.
I'm pretty stuck on getting the 35's so would you recommend welding rings to strengthen the birfields? or replacing with a stronger birfield alternative(super birfields/marlin joints)?
i believe the 35's should fit with wheel spacers? or is that incorrect?

scavenger45

Ok after reading over the newbie guide.. i have one or two questions so hopefully we can clean this post up and getting it in the right direction...
1. When he is talking about drivetrain he is meaning the front/rear lockers correct?
2. other than lockers what drive train mods are going to be needed? new transfer case and new gearing? if that is the case how do i find what gearing i need and how would i test different gearing without buying and installing all the ratios im interested in? (i.e 4.56 4.88 and 5.29)

JonnyBoy

When he says drivetrain, he's talking about lockers, gearing, and making sure trans and transfer case are in good working order. As far as what else is needed, that's debatable and subjective. You're in CO, so lower transfer case gears or dual transfer cases could be very beneficial, and possibly necessary for some trails, but I've never been out there, so I can only go by the pics I've seen of trails such as Patriot, liberty, penrose, and whatever else is out there I can't remember.
I can't really give you an idea of the best route for the birfields, either. I never broke one on my old 83, and I've also never broken a cv on my ifs Runner with the same 33's on both of them. Either I don't wheel hard enough, or I'm just easy on my components.
I can help you a bit on the gears for your diffs, though. If you want it to feel as close to stock as possible, with 35's you'll want 5.29's. If you'd like to try a ill lower revs at highway speeds, you could try 4.88's, but I'm assuming you're at altitude in CO, so I'd personally recommend 5.29's. I had them in my 83 with only 33's, but the helped a lot with only having a 4cyl and being at 4,000 ft with temps easily above 100.

scavenger45

Ok thank you! i just ordered my toyota lockers from marlin crawler and plan to do the gears to 5.29 when they get here and get them installed. thank you very much for help! i will post pics up when i finish installing! thank you all for the help!