beanj

I have 1991 Toyota P/U 4WD, 4cly. Did front brake overhaul and replaced both front calipers too because the driver’s side has been pulling to the left while driving and brakes applied. This has been going on for years (from 32K to 118K miles). Its causing the driver’s side pads to wear (1/8") down before the passenger sides. Since the overhaul the driver’s side is STILL pulling to the left when brakes applied. I’ve heard it could now be because the portioning valve ($164.00 from dealer) is bad.

PS The new pads (ceramic) already creating to much brake dust on both rims

Does anyone know what the problem could now be or may have had similar problem?

Any INFO would be GREATLY appreciated
Thanks Beanj

celica

what do you mean by grabbing - is the pedal pulsing - that would mean the rotor is warpped - a common issue

beanj

NO Rotor/disc problem.

While driving and go to brake the drivers side pulls the steering wheel slightly to the left. Been doing for years (drivers side pads wear down sooner also) and that's why I replaced ALL brake components even brake hoses.

Jeffires

If it pulls to the drivers side, that could mean the passenger side is not grabbing. Often the brake problem is side opposite the one that the vehicle pulls to.

beanj

Roger that and that's why i replaced hoses..calipers both sides pads rotors etc and now i'm back to square one. thanks for replying.

beanj

Understand. I haven't found any pinched or kinked problems with the lines. I did find one hose I didn't know about in the rear that I’ll replace tonight. Oh, I don't have a diagonal brake system.

PS brake dust (ceramic pads) already building up on both the rims. Just like before I did brake overhaul

Thanks! To be cont’d

wrenchmonster

Sounds like you've got a pressure differential from left to right. Possibly a weak master cylinder. First, check your rear brakes. Check your wheel cylinders for leakage, check for uneven wear on the shoes, check for contamination. If you're driving and apply just the parking brake, does the vehicle still pull? Does the cable retract completely? Or does the cable favor one side? Once you know the rears are working properly, I'd move straight to the master cylinder.

Is the pedal soft? When you push down quickly does the brake system respond differently then when you push slowly. That is to say... Is the pedal "higher" when braking quickly? This can be indicative of the seals going out in the master. When slowly pressed the seals don't spread out quickly. When braking quickly, the seals will fan out like an umbrella in the wind, and hence you'll get pressure faster. Are there any visible leaks on the arse end?

For the record:

A metering valve limits the pressure from the master cylinder to the front brakes until the rear can overcome the resistance of the return springs.

A proportioning valve limits pressure from the master to the rear brakes to prevent rear wheel lock up.

Good luck, and post back when you've figured out what the problem is.

beanj

No leaks on wheel cylinders…..I’d replaced wheel cylinders and shoes approx 3 years ago. One of the 1st things I did was adjust rear shoes (they were off). When I apply emergency brake it does NOT pull in any direction - - straight down the road like it’s suppose to do. Did that test a few weeks ago?

I measured pedal travel and it’s in specs. Even pulled master cylinder off and measure pushrod (from Booster) and its in specs.

You have a GOOD point about apply brake pedal slowly verses fast as when applied fast is when it pulls more to the left. Gradully apply and sometimes it doesn’t even pull that’s why originally I’d said it was intermittently pulling to the left.

Thanks for you INFO keep it coming PLZ

PS Well, went to p/u the NEW MC Wed and it had chip mouth/lip from being dropped or bad casting and no reservoir as advertised. So, waiting for another New one. They had to back order the rear brake hose I’d planned to replace and want be here till Monday 10 Apr….to be cont’d

PS #2 I can’t get over the NEW ceramic pads causing brake dust build up on both rims already (more on the dr side where the problem is). That was the main reason I went to ceramic pads….go figure. I’m going to find this problem if it kills me. The dudes at auto parts store are saying sell it. NEVER!!!

beanj

Replaced rear hose - - didn't make a difference...naturally. Still waiting on the new MC. AutoZone mgr thinks company stopped production on the new ones because of defect and no reservoir...and he's (slow leaking it) still researching with their buyer (buyer won't return his calls either). I could've already installed a rebuilt MC but wanted a new one to make certain rebuilt wasn't bad. Rebuilt caliper on right side started leaking 1st thing after installation and had to replace. The never ending story

Wes94

Sorry to bring an old thread back but i have the same problem with the pulling to the left and beanj doesn't tell the end of the story. I have done a lot of searching and this is the only thread that talks about the same problem.

I just want to get any other possible ideas on this before i go get a new master cylinder.

I'm about to go try the park brake to see if there is still a pull. If there isn't a pull when i slow down with the park brake does this mean my rear brakes are fine?

Again I apologize for bringing this thread back but i have searched and found nothing else about this issue.

Thank you in advance to anyone who can shed some light on this.

TNRabbit

Bearings adjusted properly??

Wes94

Yeah i even went out and got the great big socket and used a torque wrench to set the preload.

My truck actually had been sitting all winter and when i got it going again it was pulling left when i would brake. I figured a caliper was bad so i just replaced both of them and put in new pads. The Rotors were okay, not the best.

I just took it for a quick ride and my pedal is softer (which could just be cause i need to bleed more) and it still pulls a little, though i don't think it's quite as bad.

I'm gonna go try slowing down with just the park brake to see if i still get a pull. I'll let you know how it goes.

Wes94

Okay i tried slowing down with just my parking break and, no pull to the left. Actually it pulled right just a little bit.

So i guess this means my rear brakes are okay.

Has anyone had this problem and solved it? I just don't want to replace the master cylinder and not fix the pull. Is there any way to test the MC?

Wes94

Well, I went for a drive on my lunch break and no pulling. I guess the pads just needed to get seated on the rotors. I was also worried about a soft pedal but that seems to have solved itself as well... Maybe there IS a brake fairy

mick cassidy

i did my 91 brakes a year and a half ago and i can stop in a dime and get change back
heres what i did .. new master cyl and when i say new i dont get junk nappa or pep boys stuff i used oem parts , new brake hoses take the front calipers off SPLIT THEM IN THE MIDDLE there is a kit you can buy hone out the cyl with the brake hone blow everything with compressed air and clean it good now is the time to grease your wheel bearings , you will need some seals too f.s.m. will lay it out , use dealer brake pads and new rotors if you have it pulling to one side after this
id say change the valve block that all the lines tie into . im really glad i did this as
i can stop like really quick ...

crafthorse

Nothing wrong with NAPA parts, purchase the good stuff from NAPA and its either good as OEM, or in some cases better.