1986 4Runner help! Crank/run/die/repeat
#1
1986 4Runner help! Crank/run/die/repeat
Picked up an 86 4Runner 22RE with 265K miles, crank no start and a fuel leak at the pulse damper. Fixed the damper but it’ll start for 3 seconds then die and won’t fire again unless I leave the key in the on position for a few seconds first, then run for 3 seconds and die and repeat.
There are no codes or check engine light.
I have done the following according to the FSM and all the forum posts I could find:
Adjusted valves to spec
Timing chain looks new and tight
Timed ignition with light and diag port jumped
Cleaned throttle body and plenum, good gaskets and torqued to spec
Tested TPS- good
Tested cold start injector- good
Tested VMFA- good w/ 12v at harness (new air filter and good seal)
Tested EGR valves- good
Tested O2 sensor and it maxed out at .9V
Checked vacuum connections and all seem correct and tight
Tested COR- good
Bypassed COR (has 12v at harness)
EFI relay clicks easily (did not test with constant 12v though)
Cleaned battery contacts and frame and engine grounds
Seemingly no air leaks anywhere.
No change with the COR bypassed.
I did find the EFI fuse was slightly melted (still good) but replaced with new 15A.
I noticed I’d get shocked every time I exited the cab after trying to start it. The original key is worn out like a shiv but I’m using the old extras. The ignition is sticky in the start position.
The EGR arm is welded poorly for some reason but does seem airtight.
Compression test when cold (~30 degrees out):
1- 163
2- 133
3- 141
4- 125
I’m aware this is below spec but when it runs it sounds good.
I still need to test fuel pressure but I really want to know if there are any ideas from you all.
Thanks!
There are no codes or check engine light.
I have done the following according to the FSM and all the forum posts I could find:
Adjusted valves to spec
Timing chain looks new and tight
Timed ignition with light and diag port jumped
Cleaned throttle body and plenum, good gaskets and torqued to spec
Tested TPS- good
Tested cold start injector- good
Tested VMFA- good w/ 12v at harness (new air filter and good seal)
Tested EGR valves- good
Tested O2 sensor and it maxed out at .9V
Checked vacuum connections and all seem correct and tight
Tested COR- good
Bypassed COR (has 12v at harness)
EFI relay clicks easily (did not test with constant 12v though)
Cleaned battery contacts and frame and engine grounds
Seemingly no air leaks anywhere.
No change with the COR bypassed.
I did find the EFI fuse was slightly melted (still good) but replaced with new 15A.
I noticed I’d get shocked every time I exited the cab after trying to start it. The original key is worn out like a shiv but I’m using the old extras. The ignition is sticky in the start position.
The EGR arm is welded poorly for some reason but does seem airtight.
Compression test when cold (~30 degrees out):
1- 163
2- 133
3- 141
4- 125
I’m aware this is below spec but when it runs it sounds good.
I still need to test fuel pressure but I really want to know if there are any ideas from you all.
Thanks!
Last edited by Imnotamechanic; Mar 19, 2023 at 10:04 AM. Reason: Adding engine
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