I put the tcase back in got all the angles:

Rear end: +85 degrees
Tcase rear: -88 degrees
Front axle: -85
Tcase front: 90 degrees

Think about pulling the trigger on these:
Tcase with adaptor 23spline/23spline: https://www.jegs.com/i/Trail-Gear/54...1-KIT/10002/-1
Dual case crossmember: https://www.jegs.com/i/Trail-Gear/54...1-KIT/10002/-1
Tcase Mount: ebay
Tcase shifter: ebay

After I get those in, then I can measure for drivelines. Anything I am missing?

 

Here is a much needed update and some more questions. Been a bit I know.

I got the dual case in (mostly) and have emailed https://www.highangledriveline.com/ about the drivelines.

The big problem I got right now is that I didn't realize the original t-case mount was modified to push the mounting point back due to the chevy v6 adapter.
My friend did all of that work and he did a great job with the welding. Couldn't even tell.

So the Trail Gear dual case cross member is about 1"-1.5" back from the frames mount points.

Any suggestions on what I can do?
Anyone here have a dual case with a chevy motor and chevy tranny?
Should I get a shop to modify the Trail Gear Crossmember?
Is there another solution like just getting another stock tcase crossmember and having someone weld new mounting points to the frame?

 

I'd make new position holes to accept the t case mount before I'd modify the crossmember to frame points.

 

meaning you would drill/weld new mount holes on the frame and leave the crossmember alone?
just want to make sure I understand. thanks for replying.

 

Uh, No,

Just drill and tap appropriate holes to mount the transfer case to the crossmember center, when the crossmember is bolted to the original frame holes.

 

Its similar to my crossmember situation. Until I make or have one made, I have my Rf1a (a340f trans, inchworm adapter, non dual case) mounted to a half inch plate on the back end, dropped the member a bit with spacers and longer bolts, and bolted the plate to the top of the member. Lost some clearance, but it drives fine. I also had a similar vibraton. I'm using my original driveshaft, not modified, just shoved the yoke in further, I actually stabbed the yoke wrong (90* off) and got my ujoints out of phase. Restabbed the yoke, vibration/shudder/grinding is gone.

 

you need the double cardan when the rear pumpkin is rotated upwards, because the faces of the yokes are no longer parallel with each other, you'll know that's it when there is vibration on deceleration/coasting.

i ended up going with a tom woods double cardan driveshaft because it was cheaper; the u-joints are easy to source, but i think that factory toyota is stronger... i put a high angle driveline from jesse in front years ago, but it was dang expensive even back then.

 

I just want to reinforce the idea that the rear drive shaft IS your problem. Been there, done that myself.

I had originally put a regular two U-joint shaft in after my lift. Had HORRIBLE noise ONLY on deceleration "seemingly" coming from my transmission. My freshly rebuilt trans and fresh cases by the way. Drive shaft angles were in spec. I pulled drain plugs and found NOTHING unusual on the magnets or in the oil. I still pulled the drive train and disassembled. Found NOTHING wrong.

The fix....... I had a double cardan drive shaft made, cut off the spring perches and PROPERLY set pinion angle for a double cardan shaft. Never a problem since.

Good luck with your build.