Hello All,

I'm sure this has been discussed but does anyone use a tow bar on their 1st gen with an ARB bumper? I need to tow my runner for a couple 1,000 miles and I'm looking for ideas on the best way to approach this without buying/renting a trailer.

Thanks!

 

I've wondered the same thing. It looks like a tow bar could hook up to it.

 

I bought a used Roadmaster Falcon All-Terrain tow-bar off Craigslist last week and ordered a D-ring adapter kit that's pending delivery. I'm confident this should work and will post some pictures once the final parts arrive.

 

Well, in short it "works" but I don't trust the ARB bumper. On a test run the 4runner was all wobbling causing my Tacoma to wobble. After inspection I noticed the D'ring was slightly bent. (see below comparison of passenger D’ring)

Before


After





I decided to get an alignment and installing a new steering stabilizer (the old one was shot) which reduced the wobbling to a minimum. Here is a pic of the tow bar and D’ring adapter kit.

 

And were off to move from Phoenix to ??? (for now cali)


As you can see the angle is aggressive.


I think the angle and becuase this was a used unit contributed to the break-down in Cathedral city. (driver side collapsed and wouldn't lock in the extended position)


I ended up renting a U-haul tow dolly to make my way to the central coast.

This is what I noticed when I arrived. Both sides have stress cracks.






Made it to the coast. But now I'm on the hunt for a dovetail trailer.

 

I'm not too familiar with tow bars but have flat towed a couple 60s beetles and since there is no column lock in them, the steering turned when going through courners. Was the column locked on the 4runner? Is supposed to be? I don't even know. I also read something about taking the drive shaft out, unrelated to the cracks in the bumper though.

 

I did a bunch of research before the trip and the majority of sources said to leave the steering in the unlocked position when flat towing; luckily for me the column lock doesn't work anyway.

The rear driveshaft was removed for the trip. The original plan was to install rear full-float with locking hubs if this initial trip was successful so that I can keep the rear driveshaft in while flat towing.

During my 5-7 mile test trip, the 4runner was shaking my Tacoma quite a bit but after the steering stabilizer and alignment were completed it tracked behind the Tacoma with minimal movement. If I had more confidence in flat towing with the ARB I would install shims under the front leaf-springs to adjust the caster. I've read that positive caster is required for the vehicle to be safely towed. Currently the 4runner is within in stock specs but I don't recall the current caster degree.

I think there are a couple reasons for the stress cracks: the tow bar is able to expand and contract causing it to expand during breaking and contract during acceleration and the D'rings are 3/8" thick with the adapters being 3/4". I added washers to reduce the play in the adapter but I don't think it was sufficient. If flat towing was the only option, I would look into a different bumper with 3/4 D'rings or install the vehicle specific adapters.