starting new thread here. 22re rebuild
#1
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starting new thread here. 22re rebuild
Let me start of with saying this truck ran great before I got to it. It was using lots of oil so I tore it down. Block was scored so I used a block of my buddy's with his pistons and rings, used, replaced only the main bearings. Rod bearing didn't have a scratch In them and used my polished crank. Super budget build and now regretting it. Any way here is a video of it running first start. Idle was all over the place and once it warmed up a little it stays like this. I have a exhaust leak somewhere and there is a gnarly whining noise followed by a weird internal noise that isn't audible in the video . I ran most vacuum lines and capped a bunch bevause in was trying to follow this thread about deleting a lot of the vacuum lines. Any way any input is appreciated thanks. 22re running like poo:
#2
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With a little more inspection it has a miss. Don't know why yet. Leaking exhaust from a block off plate I made lol and the power steering pump was whining because it was out of fluid. Duh.
#3
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Sounds like it's running on 3 cylinders. Injector bad, no spark or valves out of adjustment. Hook up a vacuum gauge if you have one.
Good Luck.
The p/s wine, I've had that before...
Good Luck.
The p/s wine, I've had that before...
#4
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Thanks. Yeah I totally didn't know that after having the head apart I should have re adjusted the valves. I'm gonna do that tonight along with re checking spark plug gap.
What does the vacuum test do?
What does the vacuum test do?
#6
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Adjust valves cold to 7 intake and 11 exhaust. Gapped plugs to .31. All vacuum lines ran correctly. Compression test came up a little short all cylinders about 132. And here is the video after those adjustments. 22re still running like poo:
The pops you here are backfires that are audible in the valve cover and intake tube. And it won't rev past about 2100 rpm. I am stuck again at this point. I didn't not run a vacuum test yet .
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#9
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Low on coolant which was causing the idle to go up and down. Found I had multiple air leaks in the intake manifold and it was causing the back fires in the intake. Had to help a buddy fix his ranger tonight so didn't get much wrenching on the yota. I'm gonna button up everything tomorrow night and hoping for the best !!
#10
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Thought I had some intake leaks but I don't think I do. Spray brake clean all around the intake, intake tube, heard nothing from the idle. it still won't idle up. If I spray brake clean in the throttle body it will and then start popping through the intake again. As well as if I try to hold the throttle wide open with out brake cleaner. I am clueless as to what to do here.
#12
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I'm sorry terrys87 but to see which one is what?
All cylinders are firing. Each time I pull a spark plug wire on each of the cyl the motor idles down
All cylinders are firing. Each time I pull a spark plug wire on each of the cyl the motor idles down
#13
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I misunderstood, it sounds like a random miss. Pulling one plug at a time will idle roughly. In a constant miss, pulling one plug at a time until you don't see a change in the motor, will find what cylinder it is on. Once you find what cylinder it is on, then you can start trouble shooting if it is on the Firing Side or the Fuel Side.
Random misses are difficult. I do not like using part store tune up parts. I get my rotor, cap, plugs, and oil filter from the dealer. They are about the same price you would pay the part store. I get my Denso plug wires from ebay. They fit so much better and wont back out of the cap like part store brands do.
Part store products have caused me some difficulty in the past. One of the most difficult problems I ever worked on was part store plug wires. One had a break inside the wire and caused a miss. Since they were new, I just thought it had to be something else. This was when I was new to mechanicing as well.
Random misses are difficult. I do not like using part store tune up parts. I get my rotor, cap, plugs, and oil filter from the dealer. They are about the same price you would pay the part store. I get my Denso plug wires from ebay. They fit so much better and wont back out of the cap like part store brands do.
Part store products have caused me some difficulty in the past. One of the most difficult problems I ever worked on was part store plug wires. One had a break inside the wire and caused a miss. Since they were new, I just thought it had to be something else. This was when I was new to mechanicing as well.
#16
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When in doubt, start with the basics. Double check that the firing order is correct (1-3-4-2). Pull the valve cover off, setting TDC for #1 and verifying that your cam timing is correct. Then ensure your distributor is set correctly. Check spark for each cylinder. I like to use an old spark plug (or new one), connect to each wire, ground the plug and watch for a spark. Crank the motor with the coil disconnected, then see if each plug smells like fuel. Get the engine warm then do a compression test to see if all the cylinders are roughly around the same (10% rule). I'm sure you know what your doing and don't want to insult your intelligence, but if all those things check then you should have a decent running engine. Fuel, Timing, Compression, and Spark.
Last edited by parchisi; 12-07-2014 at 12:07 PM.
#18
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okay so i unplugged the throttle position sensor, idle dropped almost back to normal, should be around 750 correct?, and it revs up and i actually drove it down the road and it drives good. i still need to set ignition timing, but I'm guessing i need a new tps! lol
#20
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Bought oem toyota tps. $150 my cost at the dealership so not to bad I guess. Put it in tomorrow, set ign timing and go from there. Stupid egr cooler plate on the back is leaking coolant yay......