lvwilly

I have an 84 4x4 with a lift. Not sure on what type as the previous owner was not super helpful with the history. I'm guessing it's stock springs with lift shackles. Some pics if they help anyone identify what's there.

<a href="http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/Lvwilly/media/20160123_1422311_zpsq9h1dlgi.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee467/Lvwilly/20160123_1422311_zpsq9h1dlgi.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20160123_1422311_zpsq9h1dlgi.jpg"/></a>

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This thing rides like a tank. I understand that a solid front axle is going to be a little rougher. I'm coming from a newer Xterra with nice suspension so I know I need to manage my expectations but it's unbearable now. I can't hold coffee while going down surface streets or the freeway and I swear I'm going to chip a tooth. Pushing down on the front or rear yields no movement.

What would be the most comfortable way to set up this truck's suspension? I'm going for an overland type vehicle. Will never do any rock crawling, just trails and camping type terrain with it being my DD. Also only going to run 31s.

I have always been happy with Old Man Emu. Looking at using all of their components. Post #8 on this thread says you can use longer springs in the rear with no other modification. Anyone done this? Will it have an advantage? http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=87382.0

Thanks for any insight.

donomite49

stiff shocks will cause this problem with any spring setup. Been there with my 79 pu.
You can remove the shocks and see if it's just the shocks or the springs too.

I think the ruf (rears up front) and the chevy 63" rear springs is a good setup for the truck.
I found some soft valved shocks for my 79 (sold and missed) and it rode like a car compared to what was on the truck even with a stiff front end. It will flex better as well.
Soft shocks don't carry weight as well though.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Mine has the OME springs on it and I installed the correct shocks on it and it made a big difference. Eventually I am going with factory springs.

I dont know the name of the bar in your picture, is laying against the stabilizer bar and not allowing any travel? Might try to temporarily remove that bar and do a test drive and see what results you get.

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

So 2 types of lifting with springs:
1- same length as stock just more arch = rougher ride, less travel.
2- longer springs with same or more arch = better softer ride and more "articulation" but requires modification of rig.

If you go playing with shackle length you run the risk of affecting pinion angles or steering geometry.

Lift blocks are not recommended for front. Nor are shims.

Do it right or don't. It cost less to do it right the first time. RUF and 63"s are suppose to be plush but more skill for set up to set castor angle. Alacan springs are made to order using actual weight of truck and length of spring hangar. Marlin and trail gear and deaver have have longer springs sets off the shelf and good instruction on install.

Prolly gonna want to switch to high steer steering and ditch torsion bar, or remove it and deal with bump steer.

lvwilly

Is higher height inherent with the 63s/RUF? I've read about the swap and it sounds like it will work out to a 4" lift or so. I'm working on getting back to a stock or near stock height.

I've also had deavers before (on a tacoma) and liked them. Are they comparable to OME or a better quality? I'd assume that both would be similar if they were the same length?

Thanks for the replies.