84-85 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd gen pickups and 1st gen 4Runners with solid front axles

Need some help, no accessory power.

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Old Mar 17, 2024 | 07:58 AM
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Baller's Avatar
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From: NW PNW
Need some help, no accessory power.

I’m terrible at this electrical stuff and need some help with what to look at. ‘85 22R is what I’ve got. I’m having a problem with no power to the accessories. The rig starts and runs great, like it always has but, none of the accessories have power. No power to the radio or cig lighter, no power to a dash mounted tack and voltmeter and no power to the clock in the dash. I’ve checked all the fuses and everything looks good. One weird thing this is the tach and voltmeter are backlit and when I turn the lights on, all the dash lights and the backlights work correctly. Beyond the fuses, where should I look next?

Last edited by Baller; Mar 17, 2024 at 08:49 AM.
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Old Mar 17, 2024 | 01:45 PM
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It's time to start tracing wires. If the fuses check good, you ohmed them out, not just looked, right, then go to any junction point you can find, and measure the voltage there. If it's good, go further toward the accessory. Somewhere along the line, you'll find a place the voltage is not. You know, there is a fuse block in the interior of the cab, yes? Could the key switch portion that feeds ACC be having trouble making good contact?

Are all the accessories on the same line someplace? You specified "fuseS". That tells me that something before the place that the voltage splits off from the key ACC to the separate fuses is bad. I don't have an EWD for that year/model of truck. If you do, identify where it goes from a single point of feed, IE: The ACC portion of the key switch, to multiple feeds, IE: Fuses. Somewhere in that single line is the problem. Otherwise, only one feed, IE: input to A single fuse, would be bad. The way you're describing it, somewhere where they are all tied together, it's bad. Only trace the line where they're all tied together, not after they've split off to the separate circuits.

Finally, if they all share the same ground, make sure it's in good shape. Do they all share the ground in the cabin fuse block area? That is known for getting loose where all the grounds connect together, right where they bolt to the body metal, right where the fuse block is. What about the ground that is connected directly to the battery? The one that grounds the body metal to the battery?

Just stick to looking where everything is common to something they all share, whether voltage or ground.

Does any of that help at all?
Pat☺
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Old Mar 19, 2024 | 07:02 AM
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Thanks for the reply. Here’s more of the story. Last night I checked all the grounds and they are good. There was a constant hot wire run to the deck and an extra cig lighter that I got fixed. Still having a problem with the “accessory” 12v wire that turns on the stereo and powers the tach and voltmeter. I’ll attach a few pictures of what I’m looking at. Both the gauges and the accessory power to the deck are spliced into a red/green wire that goes into a loom, back behind the stereo, then to a bigger loom, behind the air ducting behind the steering wheel. I don’t know where it all goes from there, without tearing apart the whole dash. Anyone know anything about the red/green wire and where I may be able to track down the other end of it? Should I not mess with the red/green wire and find another 12v switched wire and just run everything from that with a clean wire?


Here’s the red/green wire that splices to a red wire that powers the tach and voltmeter. You can also see the extra cig lighter here.

Here’s the red/green wire spliced into a red wire that runs to the stereo “accessory” circuit.

Here’s the general setup. Don't think the tach is on here, it's stuck there, without power.

Last edited by Baller; Mar 19, 2024 at 07:05 AM.
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Old Mar 19, 2024 | 04:27 PM
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OK, here's the schematic for an 85 4Runner, and pickup. You can see that your RG wire comes from the CIG fuse.

Noww, I can't speak for what the previous owner (PO) has done. That big red wire is an example of a PO installed mod. Anywho, you need to go to the CIG fuse, which I believe is in the fuse block in the cabin, behind the driver's side kick panel. Check the voltage on both sides of the CIG fuse. Then check it at the various points indicated by the schematic. The places it goes to. If you don't have voltage there, at the points shown on the schematic, chances are the wire is cut/broken somewhere between those two points.

You're going to be tracing the wires, I'm afraid. Taking things apart to find the place(s) the wire from point A to point B is no longer continuous. At least with a schematic handy, you know where the wire is supposed to go. I wish you the very best.
Pat☺
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Old Mar 21, 2024 | 10:20 AM
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Thanks for all the help. Don't be like me, just looking at fuses. Checked it's resistance and that's where we had problems. I tore the dash apart for no reason. Could have just popped in a new fuse and been done with it.
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Old Mar 21, 2024 | 09:46 PM
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My accessory power started acting up recently too, I noticed I have accessory power when starting so I'm pretty sure its my ignition switch.

Here is a link to a screen shot of the FSM to diagnose the ignition switch with plug pin outs. If there are pictures in this thread they are not loading for me.

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