*MY* first true complaint about a Toyota!!!
#21
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I have a similar problem and it actually turned out to be a pin hole in the head itself. EB can shed more light on why 22r/e's do this, but I lose a quart of anti freeze about ever 3k miles. I'm driving my runner until she drops and then do a complete build using EB's low end kit and new head with his RV cam. FWIW when my truck blew a head gasket about 20k miles ago the shop missed the pin hole.
#22
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Actually what this is, is electrolysis eating away at the aluminum head straight into the cylinders. The only ways to fix this problem are 1. Have a welder weld the extra holes shut, then have a machinist run it over. Or 2. Replace the head.
#23
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I am going down the option #2 route. I am just undecided if I want to do the 22RE performance head or bolt on a 20R head.
It will be a slow build, about 6 months. I just have to allocate funds per paycheck to do it!
John
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I used a washer along with the standard gasket in place of my t-stat for a couple of summers until I went with the dual valve t-stat. The washer hole was about the same size or a little larger than the t-stat opening. The engine ran great unless it was too cold outside (in the winter).
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I used a washer along with the standard gasket in place of my t-stat for a couple of summers until I went with the dual valve t-stat. The washer hole was about the same size or a little larger than the t-stat opening. The engine ran great unless it was too cold outside (in the winter).
John
#26
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Rob
#27
If it is electrolysis, there are two things to do. First, fix the bad ground. Electrolysis takes electric current (obviously) to occur.
Next, completely flush your cooling system and use nothing but distilled water mixed with your coolant. I wont put tap water in any vehicle I own for this very reason, along with deposits forming faster with tap water.
I know of some fords that have gone through 3 or more heater cores in a year before they found some bad grounds. Fixed the grounds, used distilled (very, very high resistance) water with thier coolant and no issues since.
Next, completely flush your cooling system and use nothing but distilled water mixed with your coolant. I wont put tap water in any vehicle I own for this very reason, along with deposits forming faster with tap water.
I know of some fords that have gone through 3 or more heater cores in a year before they found some bad grounds. Fixed the grounds, used distilled (very, very high resistance) water with thier coolant and no issues since.
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Thanks for the helpful info! I have noticed it still looses some coolant, however it's maybe 1/2" below the neck of where the cap is on the radiator. I am keeping a watchful eye on it and just making a habit to check at least once a week. It's a minor thing as I am trying to get the truck up to par in other regards. Suspension is horrible on it (stock suspension and 22 years old) so that is the first thing to being replaced (however without a good engine suspension means nothing!) Next will be either the tranny or engine (depending the impact of the larger tires and what needs to be done more desperately.) It just kinda sucks, I have planned on doing the lift instead of replacing with stock height springs. Now, all of a sudden it's one more thing, then another then another. I truly hope that once I get these three major upgrades (Lift, Engine & tranny) done that the nickle and diming will slow down! I would like to start saving for my kids education and my retirement at some point!! LOL
John
John
Last edited by LUV24BY; 03-28-2007 at 02:34 PM.
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