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How did you remove or bypass your load sensor

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Old 10-11-2017, 06:09 AM   #1
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How did you remove or bypass your load sensor

I totally removed mine and used a welded line to plug up the system by the front right wheel on the chassis rail.
The brakes bled out just fine and the pedal feels fantastic but, I want to see what others have done to eliminate the load sensor if any of you would care to show off your skills?
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Old 10-11-2017, 08:43 AM   #2
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Can’t seem to load pics from photobucket.

replaced 3way junction fitting at bracket behind passenger tire. Replaced it with a 2way fitting, welded to bracket. Removed LSPV. Mounted line lock and manual proportion valve to plate mounted to inside of rear passenger side engine bay.

This post shows some of it. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...hanges-295885/

Are you sure welding a bugger to plug a brake line is “skill?” It feels like no to me.

Last edited by muddpigg; 10-11-2017 at 08:47 AM.
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Old 10-11-2017, 08:49 AM   #3
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Dude, you plugged wrong line.... you plugged off line coming off MC for rear circuit. The other one is the return line from LSPV to front circuit.

Definately re-evaluate “skill.”
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Old 10-11-2017, 09:34 AM   #4
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Dude, you plugged wrong line.... you plugged off line coming off MC for rear circuit. The other one is the return line from LSPV to front circuit.

Definately re-evaluate “skill.”
I plugged the line that gave me brake pressure after removing the load sensor.
I used air pressure to find which line went from the load sensor to the front of the truck and when the peddle was depressed, brake fluid came out of the line that went into the load sensor so you may think I plugged the wrong line but, I have brakes so how can it be wrong?
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Old 10-11-2017, 10:04 AM   #5
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So quick lesson... you have 2 brake circuits in your truck; the front brake circuit and the rear brake circuit. Now in many some vehicles say the 2wd truck these to circuits are seperate. But in the 4wd truck/4rnr the are linked together with the LSPV between the 2 circuits. The idea was that as the truck bed was loaded the additional weight would cause the LSPV to allow more brake fluid to pass to rear brakes. When the truck was unloaded the LSPV would restrict some fluid from going to the rear brakes but direct remainder to the front circuit thus increasing pressure in front brake circuit. Most don’ Seem to care for the system.

Now you can even check this out yourself. Go to your master cylinder you’ll notice 2 brakelines attached to it. Now one line comes off master cylinder and goes into a 3way junction one side goes to front driver brake the other side of 3way junction is for front passenger brake. Now run those line to the junctions behind rear passenger tire. Do you have one line going strictly to front and one line going strictly to rear? Or do you have one line going to a 2nd 3way junction one going front and one going to rear.

So did you completely remove LSPV so hard line now connects straight to soft line?

So my guess is your old rear brake circuit had trash clogging in line or at LSPV and that caused poor rear brake performance. Or your brake system wasn’t bled properly thus poor rear brake performance (you did breed LSPV last right).
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Old 10-11-2017, 12:49 PM   #6
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So quick lesson... you have 2 brake circuits in your truck; the front brake circuit and the rear brake circuit. Now in many some vehicles say the 2wd truck these to circuits are seperate. But in the 4wd truck/4rnr the are linked together with the LSPV between the 2 circuits. The idea was that as the truck bed was loaded the additional weight would cause the LSPV to allow more brake fluid to pass to rear brakes. When the truck was unloaded the LSPV would restrict some fluid from going to the rear brakes but direct remainder to the front circuit thus increasing pressure in front brake circuit. Most don’ Seem to care for the system.

Now you can even check this out yourself. Go to your master cylinder you’ll notice 2 brakelines attached to it. Now one line comes off master cylinder and goes into a 3way junction one side goes to front driver brake the other side of 3way junction is for front passenger brake. Now run those line to the junctions behind rear passenger tire. Do you have one line going strictly to front and one line going strictly to rear? Or do you have one line going to a 2nd 3way junction one going front and one going to rear.

So did you completely remove LSPV so hard line now connects straight to soft line?

So my guess is your old rear brake circuit had trash clogging in line or at LSPV and that caused poor rear brake performance. Or your brake system wasn’t bled properly thus poor rear brake performance (you did breed LSPV last right).
Braking wasn't why I removed the LPSV, it was in my way since it wasn't hooked up to anything due to the lift factor of my rig.
The truck has brakes after my mod and when it works as good or better than it did before, I chalk it up as a success.
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Old 10-14-2017, 04:08 PM   #7
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Braking wasn't why I removed the LPSV, it was in my way since it wasn't hooked up to anything due to the lift factor of my rig.
The truck has brakes after my mod and when it works as good or better than it did before, I chalk it up as a success.
So it turns out dude was right, I did unhook the wrong connection and when I went to move the truck the next day, she had no brakes again.
I took it apart again and put everything right and now the brakes work as designed, stopping my rig on a dime and leaving ˘.06 change.
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Old 10-15-2017, 05:44 AM   #8
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curious how you thought had better brakes as first....glad you got it worked out

here is what I did with my LSPV (granted this is on my 94 but the concept would be the same on a 1st or 2nd gen) i didn't want to mess with the brake lines

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Old 10-15-2017, 05:55 AM   #9
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curious how you thought had better brakes as first....glad you got it worked out

here is what I did with my LSPV (granted this is on my 94 but the concept would be the same on a 1st or 2nd gen) i didn't want to mess with the brake lines
I honestly don't know, the truck had a brake pedal when I went to bed and had no brake pedal when I woke up.
Last night I drove the truck around around town here for a half hour scaring the hell out of fools with open car windows because the welded rear axle chirps tires at any direction change, funner n hell.
Anyway, I'm taking the rig to Hungry Valley today for the Bakersfield 4 Wheel Parts customer appreciation day event and will be on the Miller Jeep Trail hopefully going the right direction for a challenging ride.
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Old 10-15-2017, 09:48 AM   #10
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So it turns out dude was right, I did unhook the wrong connection and when I went to move the truck the next day, she had no brakes again.
I took it apart again and put everything right and now the brakes work as designed, stopping my rig on a dime and leaving ˘.06 change.
Glad you got it figured out!!!!

For years I just zip tied the LSPV arm up to frame. Last summer had some vacation to use and spent it doing multiple projects that had built up on 4rnr. I completely removed LSPV at same time I went disc brakes in rear. So hard to compare performance when multiple things are done at once.
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Old 10-15-2017, 10:56 AM   #11
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Glad you got it figured out!!!!

For years I just zip tied the LSPV arm up to frame. Last summer had some vacation to use and spent it doing multiple projects that had built up on 4rnr. I completely removed LSPV at same time I went disc brakes in rear. So hard to compare performance when multiple things are done at once.
I have my old single rotors and calipers that are going in the rear next year, no more mods this year or wife has me shipped off to Siberia.
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Old 10-15-2017, 12:16 PM   #12
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Good time to test adding pics since no more photobucket.
Used cut off wheel to remove 3 way junction from bracket. Then welded a 2 way junction onto bracket. Got this one from a 2wd yota since they didn’t have LSPV.
Manual proportion valve and line lock. Mounted them to a piece of UHMW then mounted to inner fender well. Making the lines saved a small fortune on adaptors. Line lock is used for trail stops since I no longer have a parking brake.
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Old 10-15-2017, 12:39 PM   #13
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I just zip tied the lever up to the body. been that way for years.
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Old 10-15-2017, 04:19 PM   #14
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I just zip tied the lever up to the body. been that way for years.
Mine was zip tied to the underside of the bed but, I took the bed off to put LROR shock mounts in and decided to eliminate the LPSV just for ˟˟˟˟z & giggles.
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Old 10-15-2017, 04:53 PM   #15
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muddpigg,

I have a 93 2WD that Does have the LSPV on it. Must have added them to all trucks at some point.
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Old 10-15-2017, 05:14 PM   #16
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muddpigg,

I have a 93 2WD that Does have the LSPV on it. Must have added them to all trucks at some point.
Down here in the San Fernando Valley old 2wd Toyotas are worked, worked more and then worked even more by scrappers, gardeners and or landscapers, they better have load sensors in them.
I used my brakes today and was real happy with the results of removing the LPSV, Hungry Valley was a blast.
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Old 10-15-2017, 08:28 PM   #17
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muddpigg,

I have a 93 2WD that Does have the LSPV on it. Must have added them to all trucks at some point.
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Down here in the San Fernando Valley old 2wd Toyotas are worked, worked more and then worked even more by scrappers, gardeners and or landscapers, they better have load sensors in them.
I used my brakes today and was real happy with the results of removing the LPSV, Hungry Valley was a blast.
Beats me.... Pulled the junction off a 2wd years ago in Wa that didn’t have a LSPV. Think it was a 2nd gen truck. Like I said had several projects get rolled up in one. Chevy 63s, shock configuration, disk brake conversion, armor on axle housing, replace soft lines off fuel tank. I went ahead and replaced brake lines to the rear. That’s what I mean when I say hard to tell how much of a difference removing LSVP had on improving my rigs braking. If i’d Just removed LSPV only would be easy but added disk at same time. I like my new setup and braking is much better with 35s and fully loaded.
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Old 10-16-2017, 05:38 AM   #18
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So it turns out dude was right, I did unhook the wrong connection and when I went to move the truck the next day, she had no brakes again.
I took it apart again and put everything right and now the brakes work as designed, stopping my rig on a dime and leaving ¢.06 change.
Good on you for a follow up. There is a ton of information on here. So many people don't follow up and finish there thread questions and that makes it so hard to search. Keep up the good work.
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Old 10-16-2017, 06:37 AM   #19
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Good on you for a follow up. There is a ton of information on here. So many people don't follow up and finish there thread questions and that makes it so hard to search. Keep up the good work.
I had to fight with myself to be honest in front of everyone by coming clean that I was wrong but, common sense dominated. I was doing a job I knew not so my mistakes were honest but, hiding those mistakes on a forum I broadly plastered them wouldn't be right so there you have it, honesty.
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