ojm3

Hey guys i got an 84 with the original 22r. I have sprung an oil leak somehwere. The oil drips down and collects directly where the engine meets the transmission. I have replaced the valves cover seal, headgasket, timing, water pump, and oil pans seals...all of which are not leaking. Any idea where this oil is coming from? Any help would be much appreciated!

Dale Rosales

I say its your rear main seal and also a very good reason to put a nice fresh clutch in! it's a fun job just did it myself about a few months ago, good luck

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Dale Rosales

also I forgot to mention last time the only other place besides rear main seal I could think of that keeps or oil in in that area would be your egr crossover cooling plate in the back of the cylinder head I say that's worth a check but hopefully you fixed your problem already...good luck buddy

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Bullet22r

hmm is it motor oil or transmission oil? could be both, from the rear main seal and the input shaft seal.

Toyota~Boy

iTrader: (2)

I believe the EGR crossover has nothing to do with oil. It's a crossover used to cool the exhaust fumes. The only liquid that touches it is coolant. Being antifreeze or water. Which ever your using. Hopefully it's the proper coolant lol.

I will tell ya that the EGR can leak oil. Not through the EGR itself but the bolts. The bolts thread completely through the head. If a bolt is missing or loose oil will leak through or around it. The oil will likely drain down toward the starter.

Now if it the rear man then that's a pretty timely fix. Depending if your IFS or SA. If your straight axle it's really easy if you know much on pulling trannys. If its IFS you can either pull the engine to remove the oil pan or try to get the 2 studs out of the back of the pan by using vise grips of some sort. Either way the tranny must be removed or engine must be pulled.

Those bottom 2 bolts can be pretty stubborn to get out if you don't remove the oil pan. I broke mine on a old 3.0 engine but I did manage to get them out and replace my seal. Good luck

Dale Rosales

[QUOTE="Toyota~Boy;52070250"]

I believe the EGR crossover has nothing to do with oil. It's a crossover used to cool the exhaust fumes. The only liquid that touches it is coolant. Being antifreeze or water. Which ever your using. Hopefully it's the proper coolant lol.

I will tell ya that the EGR can leak oil. Not through the EGR itself but the bolts. The bolts thread completely through the head. If a bolt is missing or loose oil will leak through or around it. The oil will likely drain down toward the starter.

Thanks Toyota boy I just looked at my old cylinder head and yeah I was mistaken good catch and yes I am using the correct coolant In cooling system from the Toyota dealership. lol

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Toyota~Boy

iTrader: (2)

I've been known to use both coolant and water.

Cough/hillbill

Dale Rosales

I take back my second post, final answer rear main seal lol

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ojm3

Hey dudes thanks for the replies! My egr checked good I believe its te rear main. A did an oil change followed by a short drive and deduced that its only motor oil. The leaky drops were fresh transparent brown. Luckily I have a SFA so ill do a tranny drop. Anything else I shouldd chec or replace while im under it? I know a fresh clutch has been mentioned

Dale Rosales

what bullet22r mentioned, input shaft seal, resurface flywheel, clutch and a new rear main seal. and in my opinion you should be good to go! if anybody else has something that I'm not aware of please reply! help a fellow Yoda man out...\m/

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ojm3

Fortunately the truck came with a new clutch in the box when I bought it. Im going to do a new slave cylinder as well, plus rear main, input seal, im thinking about a heavier high torque flywheel...anyone had any experience with these?

rokblok

iTrader: (1)

I would stay stock in regards to the flywheel. It takes power to turn a heavier flywheel, and the 22 isn't a powerhouse...

the171

Doing the same job right now on my 93 22re. The engine rebuilder had installed a speedi sleeve. The seal was wearing unevenly on the sleeve and leaked all over. Not doing the sleeve this time. Im going to try to push a new seal a little farther into the housing, and get past the groove on the crank for a clean contact.

ojm3

thank you very much for the information 171. I'll be sure to check mine for the same problem.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

If it's pooling on TOP of the bellhousing, and the rear main is in teh middle of the bellhousing, how would it be the rear main? Maybe I read wrong

If you're doing it, recommend:
- Clutch/throwout bearing/pilot bearing
- slave (which you're doing)
- rear main
- check crankshaft - may need a new sleeve like 171 mentioned - a burred crank and tear up a seal and leak quick
- resurface/replace flywheel and bolts (I kept mine but they were $8 each at the dealer...crossing fingers)
- You may want to drop the oil pan while you're at it and clean/reseal with FIPG from the dealer


Good luck!!

snobdds

I also don't think it's the rear main...

Since you just did your VC, I bet you somehow did not seat the rear main half moon seal right.

Reach around to the back of the head and see if there is any oil, I bet you will find some. I had the same thing happen to me once when I replaced the vlave cover when adjusting the valves. Did not tighten the VC bolts enough and it cause the half moon to leak. I just had to tighten the bolts on the VC more and it solved the problem...

Toyota~Boy

iTrader: (2)

I can second that. I little sealant is often used on those half moons to prevent leakage. Don't over tighten the cover tho it can cause your motor to have a knock sound

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

that's the second time I've heard that here on the forum this month (and never before!). Was it you who posted that earlier?

Is it the lifters hitting the baffle that makes the noise? I can't imagine the tolerance is that small (why would they do that?).


Back to the thread....yes, check your half moons. THEN replace your clutch for fun

Toyota~Boy

iTrader: (2)

Honestly..... I have no friggin clue what causes it. But I purchased a truck from a guy that had a knocking sound. A buddy of mine swore it was the valve cover. He loosened it, noise disappeared. I believe that once its tightened down to tight the valve cover and head are physically touching each other. In return any noise at all is being echoed through the aluminum cover kinda amplifying it. In return this makes your engine sound as if its knocking. I have no clue.

I no the books say to torque these covers at 12 maybe 14 lbs. I don't even do that. I just crank the 4 bolts down until the grommets start to mushroom out just a hair. I've always done it that way and I've had absolutely no noise or oil leaks

rokblok

iTrader: (1)

Rocker arms can hit the underside of the VC.