i agree completely. Everything in this rig has been beat on hard by previous owner. Assuming you are correct wouldn't I get some charter and grinding and horrible sound when trying to engage. For what is worth, the shifter slides smooth and into each indent as it should. Yes, I have a magnet on a stick, as I call it, and I'll stick it down in there and see what I can pick up.

In all honesty based upon me experience, it seems like it never makes it into gear. It's like I have HIGH/ NEUTRAL/ NEUTRAL. The shifter feels like it does but that's just the indent I'm feeling I think. There is absolutely no sign of the slightest grab, physical or audio. I even tried it with the rpm increased slightly just trying to get a reaction. Nothing.

I gotta leave town for work for a few days but I think the time has come to pull it and open it up and see WTF. Any other diagnosis I can do at this point. Obviously I'll drain the fluid before I pull it. Maybe the magnet will pick up something.

I'll keep ya all posted. Thanks everyone for the support

 

Looking forward to seeing the final diagnosis

 

QUOTE=K5BEAST;52491060]. Question. Which gears should be able to free spin with the shifter in each of the positions?

[/QUOTE]

They are all connected to the input gear and spin whenever the input is moving, The collar is just choosing which one to hook on to. Even if its missing a few teeth, the collar hooks all the way around. When not hooked to either, the neutral gear on the end of the main shaft will spin. You would notice teeth in the oil if they broke like the picture, plus it made HORRIBLE noises when it broke.

Is the rear case in High when doing this? Sometime they shift rails need to be trimmed, and with the rear case in high, it wont let front case go into low..

Heres the low range gears from the side from the last time I broke them. Power comes in on the left and spins the low range set. The collar either hooks on to the input for 1:1 (blue line and circle) or through the gears for the 2.28/4.7 reduction. (redline and circle)

 

That is kinda what I am expecting to see. With the oil drained you should be able to see this from the top before tear down

 

You can see it now in the picture he posted above.

k5beast, with the shifter out, and the case in low does it work? the picture you posted clearly shows the collar locked onto the low range gear. (wonder if its something silly like the shifter was in backwards)

 

It appears that is a picture you posted not Beast. He hasn't taken his apart yet. But more than likely, he will find the same carnage

 

I couldn't observe any damage to any gears from the top. Wish i had an inspection camera to look down further. It pretty much has to be a stripped gear like in the pic above. What else could it possibly be? Just seems odd that there were no chunks in the oil and it never made any noise. Even a stripped gear you would think you would hear something when trying to engage. I dunno. I just walked in the door after a 150 mile white knuckle drive home in the blowing snow/ rain/ice at 3am. Wife wants my attention all day tomorrow. Maybe I can get to it the following day.

Assuming the gear needs replaced, where is the goto place for one?

 

Wife days are good days! Do you know if its a 4.7 gear set or the stock 2.28?

Talking about this pic. You can see the collar is engaged with the low range gear set. But you wouldn't be able to see the lower gear until you split the cases.

Even with that carnage that I posted, the low range set would still try to spin because it hooked to the input gear , even in high. And would GRIND and BIND as the teeth dont mesh anymore, the remaining teeth would spin it, then it would hit the broken section again. No way it broke clean off. and is just silent.

 

I was told it has a 4.7 gear

 

Look like an autopsy is needed.

 

That would explain a lot then, so you'll be looking at the 105000-1-kit low gear kit from Trail Gear then ---- about 850.00 for the gears and gaskets. Unless you want to go back to a factory ratio in that box. Maybe you can find somebody who took them out for a 4.7 swap. Still pretty slow with a low range in both boxes. Make sure you verify the spline counts first though

 

$850?? 😱

 

Yeah, it's a pricey gear set. But like I said you can go back to the stock ratio if you can locate either a complete t-case to pirate from or find a take out OE gear set

 

I have one stock gear set and one 4.7 set in my duals. If I had to do it all over again I would be fine with the stock ratio in both cases. I originally wanted the 4.7's because I had a single case and I needed lower ratio for the crawling I do. But it was too low for some of the trail, some of the time. So for me anyway, I typically use the stock low range most of the time and the 4.7 (separately) when I need a lower ratio. I rarely use both at the same time. So if I had stock gears in both cases, I could just pull the 2nd case in and be good to go. We set my son's truck up with stock geared duals and he was never wishing for anything lower. Actually he typically used 2nd gear with both cases in low and he still had the stock 22RE 5.29 gears and 35's.

 

I was actually thinking the same thing. Running it with the first case in high and the second in low already seems to be plenty low for anything I do. The cost savings supports that as well.

I'm running 5.29 on 36 tires w/ stock 22re as well

 

Id take it apart before you order things.

There is also sumo gears. https://wheelersoffroad.com/4-7-1-to...23-spline.html

 

Duh. I just like to do my homework ahead of time so I can make an educated decision when the time comes. Not wealthy enough to randomly buy parts on an assumption...lol.


That link is a bit cheaper but I extracted this statement from the description..... "This means that at any given RPM you will be able to crawl half as fast with twice as much torque" ..... it's a toyota, why would I need twice the torque? Twice the torque means twice the ability to break other parts. Forgive me, but my wheeler before this was a k5 blazer, 4 linked, locked, fuel infected 454, on 40s with a doubler also. Torque breaks crap. Every system has a weak link.

I'm leaning towards the stock 2.28 gears with the doubler. Both for functionality and economics. If I didn't have the doubler then the 4.7 gears would make more sense to me.

 

Thats how gear reduction works.

 

Ok everyone. Progress. Pulled cases, separated range unit and this is what I see.





Now I'm trying to seperate the adapter from the range box but it isn't coming apart. Marlin crawler adapter. 5 nuts, two bolts and shouldn't it come apart? I've since disconnected the shift fork via roll pin and removed all the bearing retainer snap rings. I've been tapping on it with hammer/drift to the point I'm afraid I'm gonna cause damage. What am I missing?

 

Update. Got it apart. Damage continues. Countershaff, both gears, both bearings, all shot. Minor damage to the housings.