wrenchtech

I'm doing an 22RE EFI swap into an '84 pickup. The donor vehicle is a '89 4runner. I'm replacing the '84 wiring completely with the 4runner wiring. The 4runner has an idiot light instrument cluster and a three wire fuel sender (the '84 was two wire). Part of the swap requires upgrading the fuel tank, so I bought a new tank that fits my truck and is made for a 22RE fuel pump. Now I'm stumped as to which fuel sender I need. I want to upgrade to an SR5 gauge cluster after I get the truck running on EFI so I need to know which fuel sender to install now so I don't have to go back and drop the tank later to swap to a different sender. A three wire sender will be easiest to use with my harness. Will any three wire sender that works with my tank work with an SR5 gauge cluster? Do late '80's SR5 clusters have a low fuel warning light as well as a gauge (thus justifying the third wire)? -- Matt


Just for giggles here's a picture of the 4runner as the harness is being removed.

darth brian

looks like fun

swerks

I can not get my cluster out far enough to disconnect the speedometer any tricks???

Tool Pants

My 1988 has a mechanical speedometer.

I disconnected the cable from a bracket on the firewall.

4runnerx3

I use this stuff, it will also make your tail lights shine again.

wrenchtech

Does that give you more slack in the cable on the other side of the firewall? -- Matt

wrenchtech

I ended up using the fuel sender from my '84. It's working great so far. I grafted the plug from the donor sender onto my old sender so it plugged right into the new (used donor) harness. I changed my SR5 oil pressure gauge sender to the idiot light type as well to match the instrument cluster. ASAP I'll find an SR5 cluster. I sure miss the tach and the oil pressure gauge. -- Matt

Tool Pants

It does. Not much, but you need all the slack you can find.

vwfastg60

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115...5-swap-129156/


Any ideas on the fuel gauge? Ithas said full the whole time its out of the truck and sitting on my bench i picked it up to see what i needed for colored bulbs and now sitting here its at 3/4 tank. I had a link psted in that thread on the wires to move and im wondering if that will fix my issue. I guess i could manualy move it and try if it doesnt but i rather not be putting it in and pulling it out like crazy.

myyota

Not true, i got my cluster from an 84 2 wheel drive fuel injected truck and swapped it into my 84 4Runner thats carbed, and after changing the oil presure sending unit, the rest of it was plug and play and everything worked on the first try.

runner4thebeat

anyone know if this will work because someone told me it won't because it says oil pressure switch and i need a sender??
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...Q201-1130.html

runner4thebeat

bumpity bump

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

that is the correct one you need for the gauge style.

Djlarroc

Is it really necessary to change the oil sending unit? I installed a SR5 gauge in my DLX a month ago, and it seems to be working fine.

Trustyrusty

Hey, I have a '86 and its carbed, and I pulled the SR5 gauge cluster out of a 85 or so 2WD not sure if it was a 22RE or 22R, cause It had no motor, or tranny.. How would I wire the tach up? Just like my aftermarket sunpro?

ozziesironmanoffroad

if its not already prewired from the factory, yes.

ydopen

My truck is a 85 22r carb 5-speed and my doner cluster is from a 88 v6 automatic 4runner. Will this be o.k. and can I get somemore info on wireing up the tach
thanks

drew303

HOW TO WIRE THE TACH ON A CARB TOYOTA

Run a single 16 guage or whatever close to that wire from the GREEN plug that has a rubber cap on it that comes off the coil its called a test plug apparently. It's a single wire. You can either cut the plug off and just splice a wire to it or I just fanned out wire to slide into the plug, drilled a tiny hole in the cap ran the wire through it and it holds it in there real snug. Run the wire through the HOOD LATCH Cable hole in the firewall (its about 6" from this tester plug to the right of the brake booster). Thats the easiest way to run the wire into the cab.

The wire hooks into the #6 plug on the A terminal. On the back of the cluster there are three plugs, A B C, and they're labelled even numbered. Or you can run the wire directly a screw on the back of the cluster. There are three directly below the far right plug. The far left screw is the one that controls the tach pulses. If you follow it it leads to the #6 slot in the A terminal.

I did my swap last night and it was EASY. Only now i have to take it back apart cuz the middle bulb is burnt out LOL

*If you run the wire into the plug (I reccomend this vs hooking it to the screw) .. Strip the wire back about 1.5 to 2" . then fold the wire back overitself till its all used up. So basically just fold it back over n over like your folding pants or something. This will make a thick bunch of wire. Then you can shuv it into the #6 slot on the plug and it will hold itself in there and make contact with the leads in the cluster. (WORKS GREAT!).

hurley842002

VERY NICE! I'll be headed to the local toy salvage yard tomorrow to get my own SR5 cluster, so much to do this weekend.

Wardamneagle

I got mine off ebay and there's at least 2 on there right now.