pennywize

sorry, i dont. its been well over a year since i wired it up.

seanmearse

its good. I'll figure it out. thanks a million guys!!!

Plumbrbob

thought I was clear on explaining this but i guess not. you'll figure it out with trial and error.

I dont remember the exact amerage I know the older alt is has a lower output.

good luck man

seanmearse

well, of to the salvage yard I go! i"ll let you guys know what happens.

seanmearse

I hate junk yards!!!!!!!!!! I went to the 4 yards we have in town, they said that its included with the block!!! what is that about? Oh well, time to go out of town for parts. This is going to drive me crazy.

seanmearse

First off, thank you Plumbrbob and Pennywize for giving me some knowledge and motivation to do this. Also, a monstrous thanks to Jonnyboy for staying here helping me till 2 a.m., then getting home at about 3, and called to a fire at 6.

I just did the newer internal regulator conversion For my 84, and I'm happy to say- 14.48 volts steady. If you are having issues with your stock alternator and regulator, DO THIS CHANGE OVER!!! My battery gauge doesnt even move anymore when I have the blinkers or headlights on, the only way I could make it fluctuate was to have the headlights on, and the stereo thumping.

Below Is a short compilation of what we did to make this work, and the parts needed.

Parts-

1. Internally regulated alternator, In this case I used an 87 alt.
2. Lower bracket for said alternator.
3. Butt connectors 14-16 gauge
3. Shrink wrap
4. Some time


The hardest part of this swap was putting the new bracket back into the spot it mounts- behind the engine side motor mount bracket. Once the bracket is installed, move onto wiring. There is a red wire coming out of the harness for the FIVE wire regulator that had switched 12 volt power. This wire was cut and connected to the green wire in the old harness, then a female spade connector was added to the end of the green wire and the old harness was discarded, this wire gets connected to terminal IG on the new regulator, this will be the "exciter wire". Then I used the existing charge wire and added a ne ring terminal to it.

From this point on, its pretty much just an alternator replacement, install the upper bolt, re-install belt, tension, drive and smile.

I will post up pics of everything I did in the morning.

Plumbrbob

well I am glad it all worked out maybe if you took good pictures you can post of a write up I did my conversion long before I knew yota tech. dont know whats up with the yards and the failure to give up a bracket typically long block replacements are bare consiting of a block pistons crank and head

I check mine after talking to you I get 14 something as well the gauge moves a volt when i turn my offroad lights on too

Plumbrbob

btw whats the total mod cost?

seanmearse

Essentially, cost of alternator. Brackets were obtained through a friend, junk yards here were jerks about the brackets, so no idea. Oh, and like 3 bucks for butt connectors.

seanmearse

Def. I will get pics tomorrow for sure. should i create a new post for the mod?

Plumbrbob

idk maybe posting the mod in this thread is good enough just wondering if people in your situation will find it with the search option maybe just make sure at least the tags are good to go

seanmearse

How do you check the tags?

INFINITY

why dont you replace/splice in the + and - wiring from the VR to the batt and see if that fixes it.

seanmearse

Its already fixed, did you read all the posts?

INFINITY

ha no

seanmearse

Ita all good. I will get up the pics eventually, trying to get out of the job I have now and into a new one, so busy and stressed.

Plumbrbob

its cool glad your all fixed up and back on the road

Plumbrbob

the funny thing about these modifications is unless you know what your looking it it will be very hard to R&R parts on my rig I am a mutt of parts from 1979-1991 LOL

seanmearse

Thank you very much.

pennywize

awesome! im glad it worked out well!