OK OK It was a bout caster and I had initialy typed in camber and thats what came up . but that is what I thought also . My 33's just wander like crazy . did bearings ,trunions tie rods , stabilizer and still doing it . Is it just the tires ?
Its like a never ending thorn in my side .So next Im gonna try new springs .

 

Stupid iPhone

 

Springs are definitely not going to fix this. The camber and caster is entirely independent of the springs. Me guess is that you have the trunion bearings improperly shimmed. It's in the relationship from the spindle to knuckles that you're going wrong. It'd e very difficult to bolt your snouts on if the axle was tweaked and it's very difficult to get the locking hubs to bolt up if the axle isn't straight ,unless you are pivoting the entire assembly at the knuckle ball. Food for thought.

 

yes I do have a trunion ! solid axle , and did replkace torqe to spec drag test fish scale ?

 

Perhaps the bearings are not shimmed correctly, or maybe they are not seated straight?

 

Have you shimmed your leaf springs to correct pinion angle drastically? That'll mess up your caster and camber, but shouldn't be anywhere near positive camber.

 

When the stock springs fatigue it causes the entire axle housing to roll forward, Causing the knuckle to be out of alignment with the road, plum to the road i mean.

So yes, if thats the problem then springs or springs perch shims could fix it.

 

That could definitely be a factor, I would jack your truck up to the proper ride height and then put stands under the axle. Pull the tires and throw a level on the rotor. Then you can see if the caster change being caused by the fatigued springs is our culprit. I still doubt that you could possibly have enough caster to invert the camber though.

 

I have same issue. more of a death wobble though. I put a new Trail Gear Rock Assault housing in with everything pretty much new... trunions, shims, wheel bearings, bearing hubs, spindles,dirty 30's, tie rod ends, hi steer arms, 5'' springs NEW 37' KM2's.... very dissapointing! cant figure it out I've had it alligned at schwabs twice it would be nice to find a common ground between all our rigs to try to do a process of elimination.

 

YEAH ,right! the solid axle seeems to be very common and yet this is a prob that there are very few threads on and no great answers other than of course the process of elimination . I still havent gotten another alignment $$and time maybe on day off . but my tires are a big issue rotated them and it was smoother but then they get chewed also . it feels like my tire wants to flop at times ,but all is tight
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85 solid axle Sr5 runner
33x12x50

 

Alignments aren't gunna do much for you as the camber and caster have no adjustment points.

As stated above if the the housing itself isn't phsically bent than the problem must be at the knuckle balls because that is the only point the internal axles can pivot without binding.

I'd start there if I were you.

Four play, did you have to roll the axle forward to correct for pinion angle? Because you sound like you have caster issues, not inverted camber. Maybe you could clarify.

 

My caster is at 6* positive and from what I've read and previous experience with other rigs I've built that is a good number to be at.

 

Yes, that's a good range to be in. Have you checked your toe with a tape measure? All your steering linkages are good and the tires are balanced?

 

had it aligned at schwabs, new hi steer kit new tires and wheels and they were balanced. and they actually balanced extremeley good for a 37 the most any of them took was 1.5 ounce

 

Four play, did you have to roll the axle forward to correct for pinion angle? Because you sound like you have caster issues, not inverted camber. Maybe you could clarify.

so mine is a slight vsighting down the side of the truck.Also what would ''6 degrees '' look like compared to a quarter inch ?Maybe mine is fine and its the knuckle but then what at the knuckle , just rebuilt it and it looked better than some Ive seen

 

Caster is when the angle of pivot line that is usually a straight invisable line through the ball joints and vertical, it is an angle so it cant be measured by inches really, changing Caster would be achieved by adding shims under the leaf spring to change the angle of that imaginary line through the ball joints.

Camber is what you are referring to when the top of the tire is out more the the bottom of the tire or vise versa.

 

I'd get out my tape measure and start checking their work. I did my high steer kit and aligned it myself and it drives excellent.

There should be about 1/8-1/4 difference between the front and rear of the tires.

 

Ok thanks Sc toy , if its 1/8 to1/4 mine may be ok and I am going to definatly get springs soon 250 ish for front 3 inch and already have rear 3inch waiting .

 

He was describing how to check toe.

 

Too much toe-in can cause it to feel unstable and any toe-out will definitely feel unstable.

It's a very easy thing to check yourself and it's first thing I would check off the list of possibilities.

As to the positive camber, I am still fairly certain its from the trunion bearings being set up wrong. There is only one place for the axles to pivot from without binding and it is at the knuckle ball. Any other place would cause the axles to bind up.

Or you've managed to install your axle upside down