With the typical hi-steer setup you need a 3" lift to clear the frame rails/oil pan. I was thinking of a custom lo-steer crossover on my rig (probably have to notch the passenger side frame rail), or just go full hydro and not have to worry about it anymore.

I have <3" lift now, with custom clearanced oil pan and a slight bend to the tie rod as the frame has beat it into submission. My impression is a stock suspension will have as much uptravel as a 3" with hi-steer. The 5" suspensions seem to have good uptravel (not sure if the springs are too happy about it though), but that's way to high for me unless I'm running 40"+ tires.

My stock birfs broke after 3 years on 36's, so they aren't a big deal. I can replace them every 3 years for life and still be money ahead compared to longs.

 

I plan on going longs, I am a crappy, lazy mechanic and don't want to have to fix a birf when I am stuck between a rock and a hard place

 

I don't feel like arguing with anyone, especially online, so I'll let you win this one buddy.

 

I like this thread. Its bringing up some good discussion about different ways to build a truck. I have not thought about the issue with crossover style steering on a truck that is not lifted more than 3".

I am slowly(read its sitting in the backyard under a tarp and not running) building a dedicated trail rig, and I think I might try going with less than 3 or up to 3" of lift and lots of cutting of this one.

 

hahaha, it may almost float but wont get me across the inlet, still need bigger tires for that!!

I am for the so called "bridge to nowhere" because it would cut my comute in half, so i guess i live in nowhere, AK lol

Actually works really well for me with the stock transfer case, i dont mean it is optimal but it works without slipping the clutch, but trails up here are all mud, with almost no rocks so i dont really need the low low crawl like you crawler guys do. and i only use 2psi in my tires and have a soft susspension so i dont feel that many bumps with 40's!

your preaching to the quire!!! 4th gear is dead to me with 40's and 4.10's.

I just am waiting for the snow to get too deep to wheel then it will get 5.29's and a buick v-6!!! all already in my shop!

 

Ok that makes more sense...cause if you were running 40's with stock t case gears in rocks you would have to ride your clutch over every rock and you would stall ALOT!! lol

2 psi? Do you run bead locks?

 

You must have about a 2' wide footprint.

 

Yup. That's what I'm trying to figure out, how to do crossover steering with no lift on my truck.

Full hydraulic isn't for me. Linking the front isn't really in the cards either.

 

you should paint the inner fender well black so that they are not as noticeable.

 

Any updates?
What tools did you use to cut the fenders?

 

finally someone who thinks lower is better. i plan on stuffing 39 inch BFG krawlers under my truck after an SAS with 3 inch or 4 inch springs.

sweet rig

 

I'm interested as well. Looking to do the same thing. Interested in how you moved the axle forward 2". Looks like you modified the front hangers?

 

id actually like to keep it low on like 32s ...but keep hysteer
maybe a 3 inch lift sas

 

I love your idea...thinking about doing something similar. Already put 33's on my truck with no lift but I hear so much about the steering being week. What did you do to strengthen it? any other options to help steering? also very interested in how you moved the axle forward.

 

looks cool but you're gonna need some gears,running that big of a tire on stock gears will put ALOT of stress on your clucth, trans, and eninge...other than that it's sick

 

Sorry it's been so long since I've posted but I've been dealing with engine issue's. Anyway to answer some of your questions first off I cut the fenders with my 4" cutting wheel on my grinder. Second I moved the axle forward by cutting off the old spring hangers up front and welding new one's on further up (built a brace for that). Third I have already re-geared to 4.88's with detroits front and rear and plan to put a 4.7 in the t-case soon.

 

Right on looks really really cool! I had the same idea from the start

But no rub @ stock height, no wheel spacers with fenders trimmed on 37's?

WOW!

I am fighting my rub issue everyday. Loosing sleep over it really.

My rig:
4" lift on 35's, 15x8 4.5" BS, with 2" spacers.

I have Trail gear springs so the axle has been moved forward the fenders have been trimmed the pinch weld has been beaten to a pulp and I still rub!?!

I now have to relocate or modify my slider and beat or cut out my inner fender even more! I only get stuck on myself with the steering wheel fully locked and the suspension at full droop.

Now this does'nt happen on every obstacle out on the trail but the rubbing does happen at least 2 to 3 times during my wheeling trip. It happened on todays ride

I refuse 33's I dont want to limit the flex with extending the bumpstops I refuse body lifts or lifting any higher so I will continue to cut and cut and cut until the tire roams free.

!GOOD LUCK!

 

Yeah the secret to not rubbing with no lift or very little lift is be prepared to tub the firewall and cut anything and everything you rub on.

 

when you moved the axle forward, how did you lengthen the draglink?
i am assuming you haven't done crossover steering?

 

I finally got it running good so I took it out for some pics and I'll post more pics as I start the mods.