zuwuko

One shop quoted me $250 for the short block rebuild including balancing crankshaft. Another more reputable shop quoted me $350 for the same job. Which would u go with?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Z,

Sorry I'm late to the party(not that it's important that IIIIII am here! lol....)

DEFINITELY sounds like oil leaking past the rings do to glazing of the walls or just, simply, 'OLD'N'TIRED' SYNDROME! lol. You have a great attitude, man, and I wish ya the best. Just a thought, however.... MAYBE, just maybe, if you can afford it, it might be a good idea to order a CAM from Engnbldr, while you're ordering the rest, especially since you have the head out(Once the shop gives Tod the number of bore over...--20-30 over, whatever---). I replaced my CAM with the 261, and NO KIDDING, the difference is VERY noticeable! On the hills, top speed, getting up and GOING off the line.... EVERY aspect. I was actually considering doing a 're-gear' before I swapped out the cams....now, .....I simply do NOT need to.

I only recommend this because it's 108$(shipping wouldn't change much if you threw that in there), and YOU WILL get a gain out of it, even if you don't do it in a "Street RV Head" from Engnbldr.

Best wishes, I'm going to be anxiously watching for your "IT PURRS!" post! lol

L8r, nice to meet ya, and welcome to Yotatech, Z!

Mark

Bojangles

When it comes to your truck, dont cut corners.
if an extra hundred bucks is going to get you a better job, go for it.
I dont think that $350 for rebuilding the short block is bad at all, espicially if you've heard good things about them, But maybe thats just me.
Ive cut corners to save money on my truck, and i regretted every bit of it...
In the long run you want the best rebuild on your engine possible...Is a hundred bucks gonna make a big deal?
Just my .02 cents.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

x2!!!! I meant to say, "PICK THE MOST HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!", AND DO NOT be afraid to ask around to other machinists(more importantly, mechanics), whom might have used them. Secondly, find out which one does more of YOUR MOTOR! These lil 22re's are a bit unique, in many ways, and while the BLOCK, granted, is pretty difficult to mess up..... JUST READ MY THREADS IN MY SIG, if you want to see what can happen when you don't check around for SOLID BACKGROUND on the choice you end up making! LOL.... BIG MISTAKE, to just take ONE PERSONS word, unless that person can show that they've used them, hundreds of times, w/out incident, ya know?

Bo, do I understand 'THE IMPORTANCE OF PICKING THE PURRRRRRRFECT MACHINIST'??? or what?!?!?!?! lol.

Best wishes, Z,

Mark

zuwuko

Motor is in The Back of another truck ready to go to the machinist. Used two buddies, harnesses, and a pulley to get the motor out. Also a skateboard to move it.

Te cheaper shop did my head and have hears good things. The more expensive one was recommended by one friend of a friend who uses to work a lot in cars. Doesn't seem like a huge recommendation.

Hey mark! Thanks for the warm welcome. I already installed the 261 cam as well! Haven't been able to drive it since though. I hope Todd cam give me a deal because I basically bought his master rebuild kit but in pieces. The kit has a discontes package deal. Keep ya guys posted on what machine shop reports back.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

No problem, Z!

Hope you get it all finagled out, quickly! Anything you wonder, just ask... If I can't(which is likely, lol), someone will be able to asnwer!

Mark

zuwuko

The Good: Block is back from the machine shop!



The Bad: They returned me the block with the motor mounts, tranny bellhousing bracket mounts, and flywheel all detached from the block. Not a huge deal, I was able to figure out where everything went and which bolts they used EXCEPT for two small bolts that holds the thin plate that goes between the Flywheel & Engine Block. I'm going to continue assembling the things I know where they go that way I'll be left at the end with the few doubts to be asked here.

Do machine shops normally do this? Return your mounts, flywheel, etc detached from the block?

xxxtreme22r

yes that's normal, they have to dunk the block for machining etc etc. you didn't have the top of that block surfaced at all?

zuwuko

The machinist said the he didnt think the top surface needed machining. its smooth, but I would have thought he would have might as well machine it clean. Oh well. The 2 small bolts that hold (12mm i believe) the thin plate between flywheel and block are missing. I wonder if the motor even had them or the machinist lost them. Are those bolts necessary since the bellhousing has a bunch of bolts that hold it in place while bolting to the block?

xxxtreme22r

yeah your gonna want those bolts. They will hold that cover in place till you get the engine mounted to the trans. If you get them though, be carefull because if the heads are too big the will hit the flywheel.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

I know you wont wanna hear this... and it might not be necessary.. but I'd take it back to him real quick and have him surface the block/head surface... That could be the difference in thousands of miles before it finally gives up the ghost or not(not saying it will! lol...). After all this work, wouldn't you want EVERYTHING as snug and perfectly surfaced as possible? The block could be fine...but a surfaced block for the HG and head to mate to CAN'T be a bad thing... Just my opinion.

Also, it's almost NEVER that a machinist would re-install the flywheel and then ship it back to you, everything assembled, mounts installed, etc. Too much can go wrong on the way back to you. But, he probably balanced the flywheel for you, if he surfaced it. Mine was balanced and then marked on the new clutch kit and flywheel, so I could have the flywheel perfectly balanced with the rest. I would ask, on that as well, if you're not sure.

Also, I would think without those 12mm bolts, you might have some noisy stuff going on in that bell housing when things get vibrating, etc. It would be secure, but I wonder if it would get noisy(X???)

xxxtreme22r

not sure on the noise, probably would. I did run into a minor problem with the new flywheel on mine from advanced auto parts (the perfection series) in that the flywheel itself was hitting my original bolts that held that cover in place. I had to find some other bolts that had a thinner head on top so it didn't hit the flywheel. Just glad I saw that before I put it in the truck, cus that woulda made one hell of a racket. lol.

zuwuko

I found some thin enough bolts at a local bolt shop. Some loctite and 15lbs torque. Machinist also said my flywheel didn't need resurfacing. Since I don't have the experience I would have wanted the resurface the block but the expert machinist didn't think it was worth while so I think their is some merit there in experience. The block seems cast iron too, pretty hard to warp. At some point next year I'm gonna need to find a rebuilt tranny because this one grinds 2nd gear. At that time I'll replace the clutch and resurface flywheel.

Also, I'll be flushing tranny, front and rear diffs. What fluids do you guys recomend? Is there anything else that should get flushed that I'm not aware of like transfercase?

If all goes well I should have the motor running by tomorrow night. Then Friday straight to emissions. Then register the car. Then drive it hard wherever I go for 500 miles. A search here said I should change the oil after the first 30 mins running rebuilt motor. Seems excessive but I'm not the expert.

xxxtreme22r

don't be surprised if a fresh motor does not pass emissions. It will take a little while for those rings to seat, especially if you do not break the engine in properly.

zuwuko

Yeah I'm just trying to be as legal as possible. If I fail emissions, I can go to another place that works with the City and will check my emissions for free as many times as I want after Failing at a regular emissions place. Thats kinda nice. I'm having trouble lining up the tranny with the block properly. What a pain...Oh well, it should pop into place pretty soon here so I can start bolting everything up. Any tips installing/mounting the block to the tranny?

zuwuko

The aligning pin on the driver side of the transmission that bolts to the block wont go in the hole. Top aligning pin will, but not side one.. Any ideas from past experiences dropping and aligning the motor at this point?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

My issue with 'NOT GOING IN' was that they gave me the wrong motor mounts... they were 1/2" too tall.... I dug out the old ones, which were actually fine, and VOILA, popped right in. Just be gentle, if it's 5spd... better to take your time than take out the bent pressure plate, lol. Also, tranny might be at an angle till you get the weight of the motor back on it.... and depending on how you held up the tranny while removing the motor....maybe it's dropped a lil more than it was and now you just can't get it in?

Pics?

zuwuko

Looks like the back end plate needs the pin hole to e drilled out a bit. If I loosen the bolts it slides into place perfectly.

nothingbetter

Just read the thread and I'm glad your going in the right direction. Keep in mind for future projects that compression numbers are only reliable if you know what condition the cylinders are in. Your cylinders were so bad that enough oil was getting through that it raised the compression higher than it probally should be. I will say that you made me cringe when I read above. You said you would drive it hard for the first 500 miles. Thats not the right way to break in an engine. Upon first start up, set the timing asap without getting too awful picky (so it doesn't miss fire) and then hold the rpms around 1500 (just so theres a wee bit of load. and run it like that untill its up to temp) then idle and set timing again. Don't rev the engine during break in just because you like the sound. Then for the first 500miles your seating the rings. For the best seating, drive really nice everywhewre you go. Take a 30min road trip around town avoiding sudden rpm changes ( heavy downshifting/up shifting). Go home and let it sit overnight so it can totally cool off and all the metals can retract. For your next drive, idle up to operating temp in the driveway, go on the highway staying in your highest gear and get ready to annoy people. Drive so your rpms are always changing. Accellerate and slow down, accellerate and slow down and repeat untill theres so many people honking behind you that you have to pull over. The main idea for a break in is to always have varying rpms. If you hold at one rpm range for a long time your rings won't seat properly. Make sure to dirive nice! Sorry for the rant but a good break in will result in a long engine life.

I change my oil at 50miles and again at 500. Then its back to normal. This just gets rid of all the little dirt bits off everything that always get in during a rebuild (no matter how clean you are).

bicklebok

I just joined this group and let me say Im pulling for you zuwuko! You go!!

I have a similar problem with my truck-rebuilt head, now its using a lot of oil. Trying to decide what's the problem, and what to do. Meanwhile, I will follow your project!