1985 22re rough idle slight missing smelly rich exhaust.
05-09-2019, 09:51 AM
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1985 22re rough idle slight missing smelly rich exhaust.
Hi I was hoping to get some help with the 22re in the 1985 4runner I picked up recently.
The truck was rough when I got it, bad exhaust leaks, rough idle slight miss terrible oil leaks but it ran and seemed to have pretty decent power considering it is on 33x12.5 and has stock 4.10s still. After I bought it I drove it back to checking the oil every so often as it had a BAD oil leak it used about a quart within 110 miles it was pouring out the back to the valve cover and rear main as best as I could tell.
I got it back home and tore into it, I replaced the timing chain,pcv valve, head gasket( and basically every other gasket and seal used OEM toyota gaskets) water pump, thermostat, all vacuum hoses and a bunch of other hoses as the were all cracked and the exhaust manifold as it was way warped out of spec. Checked the block and the head for warpage per the FSM with a precision straight edge and all was very well within spec. There was no sign of head gasket failure that I could see, the pistons are stamped 1.00 which I guess is the 2nd overbore size(so no more rebuilds on this block). The head looked as though it was recently replaced, cleaned up the valves and the seats looked good, did the old mineral spirts in the bowls for an hour or so and there was no leakage.
After getting it all back together the truck started without much fan fair, however the idle is rough with a slight mis here n there at idle and throughout the rpm band and the exhaust smells bad very rich.
The truck was throwing code 11 so I checked the TPS and it passed the tests in the FSM it just needed adjusted and the code cleared up. I checked the distributor, coil, and igniter, all passed the tests in the FSM. Started again first crank no problem, however idle is still rough I cannot get it to idle at one rpm its will jump around from 750-1000( also replaced the o ring on the idle adjustment screw it isn't moving around) and sometimes stall or act like it wants too.
Next I adjusted the timing 5 degrees with the plug jumper and when the jumper is removed 12 degrees. Now the engine sounds better, but still idling a bit rough and still smoky rich exhaust smell. Also Tested the AFM and it checks out as per the FSM specs
Next I turned my attention to the cold start injector and timer, both passed the FSM tests. I pressurized the fuel system with the jumper installed and could not see any leakage from the cold start injector.After I did notice a fuel smell from the intake though.
I figure the next step is pull the injectors but I was hopping to get some advice first.
Also any chance a failed catalytic converter would cause these issues?
With that being said anyone have any suggestions on what to do to cure these issues? I am in phoenix so I'm gonna go take it to get smoged as a diagnostic tool in the next few day, figure that may be helpful.
Can you guys tell me the proper procedure for a compression test to? I have searched and not sure if I am doing it right,I have read to keep cranking till the gauge stops going up and other places say only 4-5 times. The gauge seems to keep going up so the more I crank it. Not sure about the accuracy as I hav e seen bad reviews of the cheaper gauges ,which I am sure the one I have is as its a rental.
Thanks for any insight.
ETA : installed new Denso O2 sensor, pulled plugs they have dry carbon fouling.
The truck was rough when I got it, bad exhaust leaks, rough idle slight miss terrible oil leaks but it ran and seemed to have pretty decent power considering it is on 33x12.5 and has stock 4.10s still. After I bought it I drove it back to checking the oil every so often as it had a BAD oil leak it used about a quart within 110 miles it was pouring out the back to the valve cover and rear main as best as I could tell.
I got it back home and tore into it, I replaced the timing chain,pcv valve, head gasket( and basically every other gasket and seal used OEM toyota gaskets) water pump, thermostat, all vacuum hoses and a bunch of other hoses as the were all cracked and the exhaust manifold as it was way warped out of spec. Checked the block and the head for warpage per the FSM with a precision straight edge and all was very well within spec. There was no sign of head gasket failure that I could see, the pistons are stamped 1.00 which I guess is the 2nd overbore size(so no more rebuilds on this block). The head looked as though it was recently replaced, cleaned up the valves and the seats looked good, did the old mineral spirts in the bowls for an hour or so and there was no leakage.
After getting it all back together the truck started without much fan fair, however the idle is rough with a slight mis here n there at idle and throughout the rpm band and the exhaust smells bad very rich.
The truck was throwing code 11 so I checked the TPS and it passed the tests in the FSM it just needed adjusted and the code cleared up. I checked the distributor, coil, and igniter, all passed the tests in the FSM. Started again first crank no problem, however idle is still rough I cannot get it to idle at one rpm its will jump around from 750-1000( also replaced the o ring on the idle adjustment screw it isn't moving around) and sometimes stall or act like it wants too.
Next I adjusted the timing 5 degrees with the plug jumper and when the jumper is removed 12 degrees. Now the engine sounds better, but still idling a bit rough and still smoky rich exhaust smell. Also Tested the AFM and it checks out as per the FSM specs
Next I turned my attention to the cold start injector and timer, both passed the FSM tests. I pressurized the fuel system with the jumper installed and could not see any leakage from the cold start injector.After I did notice a fuel smell from the intake though.
I figure the next step is pull the injectors but I was hopping to get some advice first.
Also any chance a failed catalytic converter would cause these issues?
With that being said anyone have any suggestions on what to do to cure these issues? I am in phoenix so I'm gonna go take it to get smoged as a diagnostic tool in the next few day, figure that may be helpful.
Can you guys tell me the proper procedure for a compression test to? I have searched and not sure if I am doing it right,I have read to keep cranking till the gauge stops going up and other places say only 4-5 times. The gauge seems to keep going up so the more I crank it. Not sure about the accuracy as I hav e seen bad reviews of the cheaper gauges ,which I am sure the one I have is as its a rental.
Thanks for any insight.
ETA : installed new Denso O2 sensor, pulled plugs they have dry carbon fouling.
05-09-2019, 04:48 PM
#2
Registered User
You didn't mention EGR at all, is the EGR system hooked up, and if so, is it hooked up correctly and working correctly? I don't think a stuck open EGR would cause rich exhaust, but it might give you the miss.
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