First post.

I just recently purchased an 84 pick up for $1200 in Avon Colorado. It has 172k miles on it. When I purchased it the PO said it wasn't running because the Weber 38 on it kept flooding and the starter was bad. It also had a cracked clutch slave cylinder line.



Loaded up the truck on a trailer and brought it to my friends house. We replaced the starter, clutch line, spark plugs and attached the vacuum advance hose to the carb. She fired right up and I took it for a drive. I noticed it was knocking and took it back to the garage.

We pulled the engine a couple days later and found a spun bearing. The block is decent but the crankshaft is scuffed up pretty bad. It is also leaking oil from everywhere it seems. I think I'm just going to buy a new long block and call it good.

My question is since my engine is an early 84 with the longer deck, domed pistons etc and most of the after market long blocks are for 85+ can I just swap in a 85+ 22re and keep it carbed? Will I need new headers and intake manifold? I know I will need a new timing cover from an 85+. Is there anything else I will need to swap over? I'm not going fuel injection. This truck will mostly be a DD and mild trails. No rock crawling.

I'm thinking of ordering a long block from http://www.toyotatruckengine.com/ which is in Colorado. I just want to make sure I have all the parts I need before I pull the trigger.



The body is in really good shape. Couple rust spots on the bed but it's surface rust. The birfields need rebuilt and the draglink. Truck hasn't been hacked up yet except the crappy yellow paint job over the original wine red paint. I also have the original factory wheels. Windshield is cracked and the drivers window needs adjusted. All the lights and gauges work. Heat works and the truck has AC but it's not hooked up. The muffler only goes to about the middle of the bed and ends so I will have to address that also. For $1200 I think I got a good deal. Most 79-85 trucks around here are 250k+ miles and about to turn to dust or are way over priced.

 

The changes you have to make may start adding up to the point you may wish you stayed stock.


If that engine has never been rebuilt it might be better to build what you have. Is the crank salvageable?

Give Ted a call at engnbldr.com and see what he recommends. He knows his stuff and probably has all the parts you need either way you decide to go.

Good luck with your new Toy.

 

looks good. i think you did well. you'll have a nice truck when you get it done.
welcome to yotatech.

 

So i decided to just rebuild my engine. The crankshaft is the only part that was damaged so I ordered up a reground crankshaft and bearing kit.

Called up engbldr and ordered a full gasket set, oil pump, timing kit and rings. They were sold out of water pumps. Got a Aisin water pump and a draglink rebuild kit from Rock Auto. Also ordered an Exedy clutch kit.

Just waiting on parts now.

 

Going to be a nice rig when you get done. Let us all know how it turns out.

 

Finally got some updates on the truck. I decided to rebuild the engine. I ordered a reground crank and a complete engine rebuild kit from engbldr. I gotta say these guys are great. I had my parts in 2 days and they are high quality.

I already have the bottom of the engine done but I had to send out the cylinder head because I had some valves leaking. I should have it back Monday then I can finish the engine. This engine has never been rebuilt and I was surprised how good the inside looked.

The first shop I took my cylinder head to ended up having a 1984 SR5 Longbed parts truck parked behind the shop. Owner sold the entire truck to me for $250. Few things missing but I mostly purchased it for the bucket seats and the SR5 gauge cluster. I don't have a title for the parts truck so I will probably pull the engine and rebuild it for a spare.

Some pics.



Parts truck on the left.



Interior was in decent condition. I took the seats, shift knobs, gauge cluster and some misc stuff out. I pulled the carpet and vacuumed it out because it was nasty. I might switch over the tilt steering and the center console but I will have to fab a bracket up to mount it. I have to drill new holes to mount the seatbelts in my truck since the holes are blocked off. The factory clock would be nice also but I'm not sure if my truck has the wiring in place for it.



My dash is better shape than this one. I took the coin holder and I found a blank switch plate for the left side of the dash under the seat. Mine had 4 holes drilled in it and the one on this truck was all hacked up from failed ligt switch installs.



SR5 vs Stock. Purdy...



The bed hasn't held up so well. Looks like someone lifted up the truck from the middle of the tailgate with a Hi-Lift jack.


My truck before I pulled the interior and the vinyl floor. I found a total of $8 in change between the 2 trucks interior. No rust on either of the floors.


Behind the seats. Lovely purple tint!


My truck minus the heart.



Plasti Dipped some interior items. Bucket seat trim.



Kick panels with the crappy Sony Xplod speakers removed.



Door sills.



Dash insert and left vent.



Outer Dash.



Dash top.



Back together. Came out looking amazing.



Friend took his FJ60 to Safari LTD in Grand Junction CO and this was parked in front. Fully restored.



My go fast car.

 

that parts truck was a great find! i would have paid 800 for it with no regrets! if i was in colorado i would buy that bed and probably the whole cab. your truck looks great so far bro, keep up the good work!

 

I had an 86 without the clock or stereo and the wiring was there behind the covers when I bought them. Just had to plug them in.

Also had an 87 without A/C. I bought a factory A/C kit and everything was all there ready to plug into.

I put an 85 SR5 dash in my 88 and it was plug and play. Toyota USUALLY has a harness in place for all the options so you should be good to go. DON'T FORGET the oil pressure sender for your gauge swap.


You might kick yourself later if you don't take advantage of that tilt column. I think it might give you wiper delay also.

You got a great deal. I paid $250 for my straight axle alone for my SAS. You have plenty of spare parts and plenty to part out to recoup your expenses.

Looking good!

 

I just noticed your parts truck has vent wing windows. My 86 4Runner had them. Didn't know pickups had them. Is that an SR5 thing?

I have seen a lot of posts where guys are looking for hard to find stuff for the older trucks like heater valves and such. Take advantage of that parts truck for your spares.

Even parking brake cables are expensive. If yours are good, I'd hang on to them. Speedo cable and gear at the T-case. Fuel float, wire connectors, spare tire winch, little stuff like knobs and clips, headlight adjusters. I had a rear view mirror finally break off recently. It's also my dome light. Had a spare from a parts truck.

I'm in Az where the sun DESTROYS interiors. If I find good parts I keep em. If you are in the rust belt, I'm sure you know what you would need.

I have nut and bolt bins with just Toyota hardware and small parts. It's nice to have Toyota hardware. Most hardware stores sell European metric hardware with different sized bolt heads. Harder to find the JIS stuff.

 

That parts truck was a great find. I just bought a 1984 pickup for 1000 bucks with a blown engine, and I dropped 250 on the cab of a 2wd 1984 truck that had had the back end turned into a trailer. I'd say you got a hell of a deal.

How does that plasti dip work? Does it feel pretty much like a stock dash? I'm thinking I might have to get a few cans and attack my interior.

 

Plasti Dip is basically a rubberized coating. It holds up well and is easy to spray on. It evens out and drys fast.

It has a sort of rubber feel. It also holds up to rock chips they just bounce off. The best thing though is when it gets old or you make a mistake you just peel it off and respray.

www.dipyourcar.com has the best selection of colors and kits. I might end up spraying the entire truck a desert tan with a spray gun.

 

The parts truck was a great score. I almost want to save it and have 2 trucks but the guy that sold it said his dad bought it years ago for the engine and it ended up having a knock and he just parked it behind the shop. From going over the truck it is missing the rear driveshaft, front bumper, grill, lower valance. The head rests on the bucket seats were gone but my buddy gave me an extra off his extra FJ60 seat. I still need to find another one.

It wouldn't take much to get it running but I don't have a title and Colorado makes it a pain to get them. I have done it but it's not fun.

The bed is decent besides the part under the tailgate is bent. Couple rust holes. Lot of junk in the bed and there is a rubber mat under it all so I haven't seen the floor of the bed.

Couple questions:

What part # do I need for the oil pressure sender and where do I plug it in?

Where can I get the funky window channel clips for the outer driver window? Parts truck clips are broken also. I could only save 1. The driver channel is gone off the parts truck.

I also found the reason my driver window wont close is because the front window track brace that bolts to the inner door is cracked in 3 places where the bolt goes though the door so the track just hangs.

I would just swap the doors from the parts truck but I don't really want wing windows and my doors are in better shape.

 

Picked up some backing to make some new door cards. I went with something water resistant. Picked up 4 sheets of 32x48.

http://www.perfectfit.com/15347/1545...anelboard.html

It's the same thickness as the stock cards and I'm going to cover it with this:

http://www.yourautotrim.com/hobr.html Should give them an old school look.

 

My go fast car.[/QUOTE]

I have an evoIX. It's Tarmac Black like yours/ SE. I also have an 84! weird haha

 

Got the interior back together today. I will pull the seats again after I get it running and figure out what I'm going to do with the floor. I'm thinking dynamat and carpet or Rhino Lining.


I need to pull the drain plugs and wash all the dirt out but I don't have water access where the truck is parked.


Drivers front window track where it bolts to the door is cracked in 3 places. Not sure yet how I'm going to fix this.


Anyone know where to get some of these clips? They are for the door window water seal outer piece.


Dash installed.



Seats installed.

Got my cylinder head back today. Engine build resumes tomorrow.

 

Got a lot done today. Installed the cylinder head, water pump, oil pump, timing chain and cover. I have a parts washer and it still takes forever to clean 29 year old crud off parts. All I have left is the oil pan, intake manifold and some brackets for the pulleys etc...

Upside down shots. Shiny new oil pressure sender that replaces the oil pressure sensor. If you swap to a SR5 gauge cluster and don't do this you fry the oil pressure gauge.





Rare pics of a 22R not soaked in oil. I think it's like British vehicles when they are not leaking oil they are out of oil.



$500 72 Bronco. Damn thing sat in a garage for years and I had a chance to buy it and passed on it. Friend bought it and we tow strapped it back to his house, blew out the fuel lines and it fired right up. He's been driving it the last 2 weeks. He got offered $3,500 for it today at work.

 

you can source those outer window trim clips from Toyota still, and i would be amazed if the wiring connection for the factory clock wasn't just tucked into the recess in the dash.

 

I like to think of it as a feature. As long as you're filling it up regularly, you're constantly changing your oil right?

Project is looking good. How soon before you are driving it?

 

I installed Dynamat and a vinyl floor on my '84 and the ride is noticeably quieter.
Also Dynamatted the inside of the doors which gives the doors a good "thunk" sounds when you shut them and quieten's the ride further still.

I second (or third) the notion of the wiring harnesses being one-size-fits-all. I recently added the inclinometer/altimeter on my standard p/u and there are all kinds of connections in my harness just waiting to be used. I don't have a lighter, clock, AC or anything else, but I'm getting there and I know the harness will support it.

 

Iphone 5 broke so no pics.

Engine is back together! Next time I do a project like this I will definitely take pics, label and put parts in bags. Luckily my friend is a god damned Toyota god so he remembered where everything went. Takes much longer too when your looking for hardware you just stuck in a coffee can.

I spent a day just cleaning engine parts and putting them on as soon as they came out of the parts washer. Even though engine degreaser is non toxic I will be wearing gloves next time. That stuff dries out your hands fast.

Had to work all weekend but had time tonight to finally pressure wash the engine bay and the gearbox. This took about 4 hours. Spraying degreaser, letting sit for a few then pressure washing. Repeat about 10 times and there is probably still a lot I missed.

Only thing I need to do before dropping in the engine is rebuild the drag link. Hopefully be driving her by the weekend!