Pre 84 Trucks 1st gen pickups

white smoke after rebuild

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Old Mar 23, 2012 | 09:34 AM
  #21  
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From: Swamp east MO
Originally Posted by ConSeann3ry
Leakdown test will also show head gasket, as the air goes into the rad and blows bubbles.

I think a retorque is easy enough that would be the first thing i'd do. If the head bolts have dirt on them etc they can come out of torque when the engine first gets to temp. Loosen each as little as possible then re-torque. If that does nothing check what every one else has mentioned.

as far as the leak down test that was my thoughts on it. I also agree that a retorque is easy enough because I didnt blow out any of the bolt holes before installing the bolts.. Thanks.
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Old Mar 24, 2012 | 07:15 AM
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Whats the verdict? Hope you got it.
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Sensei
Reread post #4. At this point you have to pull it down. You have an internal issue whether it's a head gasket, block crack, head crack, etc. Unless you have a HUGE coolant leak into a cylinder, you will not get any bursts of coolant out of a spark plug hole. Leakdown test is to check the integrity of the rings and valves, the sealing of the combustion process.

Your pcv is routed to a vacuum source to evacuate crankcase pressure, hence positive crankcase ventilation ( pcv ). Baffles are installed in the valve cover to keep oil from entering the pcv valve.
Listen to Sensei...he will show you the way of the Yota...
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 04:18 AM
  #24  
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Ok I pulled it down and it was a head gasket the head and the block were both true and square with strait edge and a feeler guage there was no gap anywhere....the head gasket was a rock auto Ive read good things about them so Im not gonna say there gaskets are junk, just maybe this one, or maybe my fault I dont know, #4 had about 5 or 6 spots where the compression pusshed through and two of those spots hit the water port on the rear passenger side of the head (my big leak water sitting on #4 piston) then the #1 piston had 5+ places where compression had pushed through and one of those spots hit a water port, #2 had about 10 spots where compression had pushed though and non got any further than about 1/4 " away from the metal ring on the gasket, #3 was sealed all the way around.

all the blow outs where on the passenger side of the engine for som reason. so I bought a felpro perma tourqe gasket, it was .002 thicker than the rock gasket.

the oil and antifreeze was mixed better than I had ever seen the two mixed...it was almost od green...LOL
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 09:07 AM
  #25  
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We pay a bit more for the Felpro gasket but they are the best(aftermarket) in my opinion. Congrats! on the diagnosis and repair. Much better than throwing parts on it and hopeing
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 02:12 PM
  #26  
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From: Swamp east MO
yeah just hope the bearings I bought are better than the head gasket, I read a lot of good things about engn bldr and hoped every thing would be great but when you go with the less expensive (CHEAP) product what do you expect, I learned a lot from my first engine rebuild.
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Old Apr 9, 2012 | 04:46 AM
  #27  
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Well I got it put back together and she runs great no smoke just a little sputter at idle...I figure its in the carb or maybe the timing b/c it pings at full throttle....

Thanks for every ones comments!
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Old Apr 9, 2012 | 05:53 AM
  #28  
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Thumbs up

AWESOME you got it fixed . engbldr.com is pretty good stuff you must have boogered up the first installation I hope you cleaned the head bolts really well and oiled them up . Also be sure to re-torque those head bolts after 500 or a 1000 miles . I had people tell me its not needed but when I re adjusted my valves at 500 miles I checked the head bolts and they all needed re-torqing . These motors are pretty simple and very stout if you just take the small precautions during assembly you should have lots of happy mileage ot if it .
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Old Apr 9, 2012 | 08:34 AM
  #29  
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well Im not gonna say that I didnt booger it up but being my first engine build I was really carefull not to mess any thing up...you never know it could have been manufacturing and one out of a thousand that I got.....but next time I will just spend a little extra coin.....the Rock auto gasket and the felpro wasnt even made out of the same material....the Rock gasket is made out of material that looks like a exhaust manifold gasket.
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Old Apr 9, 2012 | 09:12 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by dirtdobberoffroad
well Im not gonna say that I didnt booger it up but being my first engine build I was really carefull not to mess any thing up...you never know it could have been manufacturing and one out of a thousand that I got.....but next time I will just spend a little extra coin.....the Rock auto gasket and the felpro wasnt even made out of the same material....the Rock gasket is made out of material that looks like a exhaust manifold gasket.

eaither way good for you for gettin it fixed up !! Now go enjoy that bad little mamajama
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Old Apr 9, 2012 | 10:38 AM
  #31  
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LOL I will!
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Old Apr 18, 2012 | 04:28 AM
  #32  
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Alright guys I have a little over 30 miles on my not so legal truck and it started smoking again I noticed last night I went to the gas station and when I got home it was puffing white smoke again!........gonna try and retourqe the head bolts if that does not work I think Im gonna buy a set of studs and an LC gasket it looked alittle different from the felpro any one use a LC gasket or studs? If I put studs in it will I be able to put the head on in the truck? I noticed my top radiator hose gets really tight even when it was not smoking would a bad radiator cap make it blow a gasket it has a 13lb cap on it now do they make a lower preasure cap?
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Old Apr 18, 2012 | 07:51 AM
  #33  
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NOO!!! Man, I was so happy that you got everything sorted. Did you check and recheck to make sure the head and block were true? No warping, distortion or cracks of any kind? If it's blown another head gasket within 30 miles, I might have to say you've got either a hardware issue or user error on something. It wouldn't be the gasket if it's blown a second one in such a short amount of time.

Did you use new head bolts? They might be stretched from overuse now... just an idea.

Follow the same procedure as before for a leak down/pull plugs/comp test etc...

Let us know what you find!
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Old Apr 18, 2012 | 09:40 AM
  #34  
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From: Swamp east MO
I did not use new head bolts I debated with it and decided to just use the old ones... I did check and recheck for warped head and block all good there. I looked for cracks but did not see anything that jumped out at me. I will probaly take it to the machine shop this time and have them look it over (profesional eye may spot something), I checked and made sure my dowels where not bottoming out they were not, I checked to make sure I had enough thread on the bolts when stuck threw the rocker arm thingy's(non-tech term....LOL) and the head, I kinda questioned the amount of extra threads (very few or should I say a couple) I thought I might be running out of thread and torquing on the shank of the bolt instead of tighting the head down. I dont think the head has ever been decked and the block was only decked .030" so I wouldnt think I would need under cut bolts.

One thing I did notice is when I adjusted my rockers I checked the head bolts and they where all a little off on torque specs after maybe burning a gallon of gas, one of the bolts I had to turn almost a quarter of turn to bring in back to 63 ft lbs

Last edited by dirtdobberoffroad; Apr 18, 2012 at 09:41 AM.
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Old Apr 18, 2012 | 11:21 AM
  #35  
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If you only decked the block then that is your problem in two ways:
1) When you deck a head or a block, the machinist is supposed to leave a very very slight hatched texture (you almost can't see or feel it) in order for the metal to "smush" and conform to the gasket. You head may be true, but without decking it you don't really have any "smushable" metal to form a good seal
2) If you decked only the block with the timing chain cover off then your timing chain cover will be essentially taller (in your case 0.30" taller) than the block thus causing the head to not seat properly between the timing chain cover and the block. The block should always be decked with the timing chain cover on.

Does this sound like it could have been your problem??
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Old Apr 19, 2012 | 04:06 AM
  #36  
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From: Swamp east MO
the timing chain cover also got decked, and the # stamed on the back passenger side corner block is .030". The head I ordered remaned through a parts chain in this part of the country it did have a slight crosshatch on it but no # stating it was decked.
I Pulled the plugs on it last night and the cylinders where dry, I retorqued the head bolts but all seemed good, put every thing back together and run/drove it for two hours and it did not smoke a lick......what in the heck is going on?

Last edited by dirtdobberoffroad; Apr 19, 2012 at 04:10 AM.
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Old Apr 19, 2012 | 10:00 AM
  #37  
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looks like your rings finally seated in. Now it's time to have fun!
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Old Apr 19, 2012 | 10:02 AM
  #38  
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^^^ Word. Give her a solid run around and see how everything feels, keeping an eye on everything obviously. Let us know how it turns out!
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Old Apr 23, 2012 | 04:08 AM
  #39  
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Wouldnt that have been blue smoke?
I have been giving her heck and the little 22 surprised me on how well it pushes that little pickup!.....1st is useless with the tires I have, I can be cruis'n about 10 mph and stomp it and it will just ball the tires, good srcatch in second and a chirp in third....LOL its fun!
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