What’s going on in these pics
Feb 12, 2020 | 07:50 AM
#22
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 126
Likes: 20
From: Near Grand Junction, CO
The dash says that it "may" be an SR5, cuz it has a tach. If it has bucket seats, console & carpet that will confirm it's an SR5. Dash is cracked. Wheels and tires look good. Underside looks good, with some surface rust. Replacement Weber carburetor (I sure liked mine).
I've sure seen lots of 1st gen 4x4s that looked MUCH worse. IMHO, that truck could be worth at least $5000-6000 or even more depending on overall condition (inside of bed, interior--seats, carpet, door panels, headliner, wiring).
That rub strip came in two types: rivet/screw-on or stick-on. Various widths too. I stuck a lot of that on our cars back in the day--didn't want to drill holes. Toyota still makes/sells rub strips for several of their passenger cars and SUVs, painted body color.
I've sure seen lots of 1st gen 4x4s that looked MUCH worse. IMHO, that truck could be worth at least $5000-6000 or even more depending on overall condition (inside of bed, interior--seats, carpet, door panels, headliner, wiring).
That rub strip came in two types: rivet/screw-on or stick-on. Various widths too. I stuck a lot of that on our cars back in the day--didn't want to drill holes. Toyota still makes/sells rub strips for several of their passenger cars and SUVs, painted body color.
Last edited by rickc5; Feb 12, 2020 at 08:01 AM.
Feb 12, 2020 | 08:04 AM
#23
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The dash says that it "may" be an SR5. If it has bucket seats, that will confirm it's an SR5. Wheels and tires look good. Underside looks good, with some surface rust. Replacement Weber carburetor (I sure liked mine).
I've sure seen lots of 1st gen 4x4s that looked MUCH worse. IMHO, that truck could be worth at least $5000-6000 or even more depending on overall condition (inside of bed, interior--seats, carpet, door panels, headliner, wiring).
I've sure seen lots of 1st gen 4x4s that looked MUCH worse. IMHO, that truck could be worth at least $5000-6000 or even more depending on overall condition (inside of bed, interior--seats, carpet, door panels, headliner, wiring).
He said when he bought it there was only one bucket seat, the drivers seat, so he put a bench seat in it. He is going to get met more pics of the interior. I suspect it is an SR5. I will get more pics to confirm the condition before I go all the way out to look at it. If it is in as good of shape as he says it is then I believe if I can get it for around $5K it would be a fair deal.
I am concerned that he had a blown head gasket. He had a mechanic and machine shop redo the heads. Sounded like he had them resurfaced, but he wasn't sure what all was done. Are these engines known to blow head gaskets?
Feb 12, 2020 | 09:26 AM
#24
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Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 221
Likes: 37
From: Where Prairie meets Mountians
So several things...
Those black rub strips as far as I know were not a factory option, perhaps the dealership put them on, worse a PO. Point is I'd be careful of what's hiding under them, particularly on the box. If its covering the seam that's there you can count on at least some rust, desert or not! Now I've only owned mine 37 years so I may be wrong!
Frames are always suspect for rust.
Spray on bed liners is always a red flag for me, what's it hiding?
Its "normalish" for some grease leakage at the steering knuckles. Check the axle oil level and see if its full...usually there will be some of the knuckle grease blown into the diff that will turn it into a sort of silvery grey colour, assuming the POers did do regular maintenance.
What was resurfaced on the head, the valve seats or was it decked/plained/machined what ever you want to call it? If it was decked count on the cam timing to be retarded (the cam will be lagging behind the crank). It wouldn't be much maybe a degree, you may not even notice it but it will shift the power band upwards slightly.
There are some broken plastic bits which are all but impossible to source.
From what I see here $5k is a touch high. You'll maybe have to put another 3 to 5 into it to get it up to snuff. See what it'll take to licence it. I'd see if he'd take $4500 as is. That said, I'd buy it from what I see.
Those black rub strips as far as I know were not a factory option, perhaps the dealership put them on, worse a PO. Point is I'd be careful of what's hiding under them, particularly on the box. If its covering the seam that's there you can count on at least some rust, desert or not! Now I've only owned mine 37 years so I may be wrong!
Frames are always suspect for rust.
Spray on bed liners is always a red flag for me, what's it hiding?
Its "normalish" for some grease leakage at the steering knuckles. Check the axle oil level and see if its full...usually there will be some of the knuckle grease blown into the diff that will turn it into a sort of silvery grey colour, assuming the POers did do regular maintenance.
What was resurfaced on the head, the valve seats or was it decked/plained/machined what ever you want to call it? If it was decked count on the cam timing to be retarded (the cam will be lagging behind the crank). It wouldn't be much maybe a degree, you may not even notice it but it will shift the power band upwards slightly.
There are some broken plastic bits which are all but impossible to source.
From what I see here $5k is a touch high. You'll maybe have to put another 3 to 5 into it to get it up to snuff. See what it'll take to licence it. I'd see if he'd take $4500 as is. That said, I'd buy it from what I see.
Last edited by Old83@pincher; Feb 12, 2020 at 09:45 AM.
Feb 12, 2020 | 12:06 PM
#25
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 126
Likes: 20
From: Near Grand Junction, CO
Some more observations:
1) If the engine overheated (note the new upper radiator hose), that might be a reason for the blown head gasket. Otherwise, these 22R engines are NOT known for blowing head gaskets.
2) In the photo of the dash, you can see that the steering column cover is missing. Interior parts are virtually impossible to find for these trucks, so they're expensive. If the interior is ratted out, figure on spending several thousand $$$ fixing it up.
3) Whoever installed the Weber carb did NOT de-smog the engine. If you live where vehicles must pass a smog inspection, the engine can't be de-smogged. Otherwise it's easy and a good thing to de-smog it.
4) 270,000 miles is a BUNCH of miles on any vehicle. If the truck didn't receive normal/routine maintenance, with receipts to match, that's yet another reason for your offer to be lower.
5) I really hate that rear bumper. Looks like it came off a Sherman tank or something.
6) I sold my '83 for $12K, which was about $500 less than I had spent on it. Get ready to spend some money. These trucks can hold their value depending on condition, condition, condition.
1) If the engine overheated (note the new upper radiator hose), that might be a reason for the blown head gasket. Otherwise, these 22R engines are NOT known for blowing head gaskets.
2) In the photo of the dash, you can see that the steering column cover is missing. Interior parts are virtually impossible to find for these trucks, so they're expensive. If the interior is ratted out, figure on spending several thousand $$$ fixing it up.
3) Whoever installed the Weber carb did NOT de-smog the engine. If you live where vehicles must pass a smog inspection, the engine can't be de-smogged. Otherwise it's easy and a good thing to de-smog it.
4) 270,000 miles is a BUNCH of miles on any vehicle. If the truck didn't receive normal/routine maintenance, with receipts to match, that's yet another reason for your offer to be lower.
5) I really hate that rear bumper. Looks like it came off a Sherman tank or something.
6) I sold my '83 for $12K, which was about $500 less than I had spent on it. Get ready to spend some money. These trucks can hold their value depending on condition, condition, condition.
Feb 12, 2020 | 12:30 PM
#26
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Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 194
Likes: 41
So several things...
Those black rub strips as far as I know were not a factory option, perhaps the dealership put them on, worse a PO. Point is I'd be careful of what's hiding under them, particularly on the box. If its covering the seam that's there you can count on at least some rust, desert or not! Now I've only owned mine 37 years so I may be wrong!
Frames are always suspect for rust.
Spray on bed liners is always a red flag for me, what's it hiding?
Its "normalish" for some grease leakage at the steering knuckles. Check the axle oil level and see if its full...usually there will be some of the knuckle grease blown into the diff that will turn it into a sort of silvery grey colour, assuming the POers did do regular maintenance.
What was resurfaced on the head, the valve seats or was it decked/plained/machined what ever you want to call it? If it was decked count on the cam timing to be retarded (the cam will be lagging behind the crank). It wouldn't be much maybe a degree, you may not even notice it but it will shift the power band upwards slightly.
There are some broken plastic bits which are all but impossible to source.
From what I see here $5k is a touch high. You'll maybe have to put another 3 to 5 into it to get it up to snuff. See what it'll take to licence it. I'd see if he'd take $4500 as is. That said, I'd buy it from what I see.
Those black rub strips as far as I know were not a factory option, perhaps the dealership put them on, worse a PO. Point is I'd be careful of what's hiding under them, particularly on the box. If its covering the seam that's there you can count on at least some rust, desert or not! Now I've only owned mine 37 years so I may be wrong!
Frames are always suspect for rust.
Spray on bed liners is always a red flag for me, what's it hiding?
Its "normalish" for some grease leakage at the steering knuckles. Check the axle oil level and see if its full...usually there will be some of the knuckle grease blown into the diff that will turn it into a sort of silvery grey colour, assuming the POers did do regular maintenance.
What was resurfaced on the head, the valve seats or was it decked/plained/machined what ever you want to call it? If it was decked count on the cam timing to be retarded (the cam will be lagging behind the crank). It wouldn't be much maybe a degree, you may not even notice it but it will shift the power band upwards slightly.
There are some broken plastic bits which are all but impossible to source.
From what I see here $5k is a touch high. You'll maybe have to put another 3 to 5 into it to get it up to snuff. See what it'll take to licence it. I'd see if he'd take $4500 as is. That said, I'd buy it from what I see.
Feb 12, 2020 | 12:38 PM
#27
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Registered User
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 194
Likes: 41
Some more observations:
1) If the engine overheated (note the new upper radiator hose), that might be a reason for the blown head gasket. Otherwise, these 22R engines are NOT known for blowing head gaskets.
2) In the photo of the dash, you can see that the steering column cover is missing. Interior parts are virtually impossible to find for these trucks, so they're expensive. If the interior is ratted out, figure on spending several thousand $$$ fixing it up.
3) Whoever installed the Weber carb did NOT de-smog the engine. If you live where vehicles must pass a smog inspection, the engine can't be de-smogged. Otherwise it's easy and a good thing to de-smog it.
4) 270,000 miles is a BUNCH of miles on any vehicle. If the truck didn't receive normal/routine maintenance, with receipts to match, that's yet another reason for your offer to be lower.
5) I really hate that rear bumper. Looks like it came off a Sherman tank or something.
6) I sold my '83 for $12K, which was about $500 less than I had spent on it. Get ready to spend some money. These trucks can hold their value depending on condition, condition, condition.
1) If the engine overheated (note the new upper radiator hose), that might be a reason for the blown head gasket. Otherwise, these 22R engines are NOT known for blowing head gaskets.
2) In the photo of the dash, you can see that the steering column cover is missing. Interior parts are virtually impossible to find for these trucks, so they're expensive. If the interior is ratted out, figure on spending several thousand $$$ fixing it up.
3) Whoever installed the Weber carb did NOT de-smog the engine. If you live where vehicles must pass a smog inspection, the engine can't be de-smogged. Otherwise it's easy and a good thing to de-smog it.
4) 270,000 miles is a BUNCH of miles on any vehicle. If the truck didn't receive normal/routine maintenance, with receipts to match, that's yet another reason for your offer to be lower.
5) I really hate that rear bumper. Looks like it came off a Sherman tank or something.
6) I sold my '83 for $12K, which was about $500 less than I had spent on it. Get ready to spend some money. These trucks can hold their value depending on condition, condition, condition.
2. Good catch on the cover. I hadn't noticed that. I have asked for more pics of the interior and I hope to get them soon
3. No smog test here. The owner claims this isn't a weber carb but it looks like it to me. I honestly don't think he knows much about it mechanically. I think he relies on a mechanic. What's your thoughts on going back with an aisin carb? I'm thinking that if I do any performance upgrades to the engine, which I plan to do, then I will likely need a weber.
4. It is a ton of miles. I plan to rebuild the engine and look into seeing if there is a way to rebuild and/or beef up the transmission. I've read that the L52 has a bearing problem
5. I had that rear bumper as well. I would either try to locate a stock replacement or go aftermarket. Any recommendations here?
6. What condition was your '83 in when you sold it? Any major differences in build quality between the years 79-83? I understand the differences in the transmissions offered and engines changing, but what about things such as quality control, sheet metal used, etc. Were any years better than the others?
Feb 12, 2020 | 02:28 PM
#28
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 126
Likes: 20
From: Near Grand Junction, CO
1. I plan to rebuild the engine and am considering going with a different head anyway. What your thoughts on some of LC Engineering's heads?
I really like LCE's parts and customer service. I bought lots of stuff from them and everything worked as I expected. Highly recommend.
2. Good catch on the cover. I hadn't noticed that. I have asked for more pics of the interior and I hope to get them soon
3. No smog test here. The owner claims this isn't a weber carb but it looks like it to me. I honestly don't think he knows much about it mechanically. I think he relies on a mechanic. What's your thoughts on going back with an aisin carb? I'm thinking that if I do any performance upgrades to the engine, which I plan to do, then I will likely need a weber.
It's possible it isn't a Weber, but it's NOT an Aisin either. My Aisin was junk, but lots of people love them. If you de-smog, then there's no good reason for using an Aisin IMHO. If you use a Weber, be sure to get the jet kit too.
4. It is a ton of miles. I plan to rebuild the engine and look into seeing if there is a way to rebuild and/or beef up the transmission. I've read that the L52 has a bearing problem
5. I had that rear bumper as well. I would either try to locate a stock replacement or go aftermarket. Any recommendations here?
I bought one off eBay. Cheap and reasonably nice looking, but not good for towing anything.
6. What condition was your '83 in when you sold it? Any major differences in build quality between the years 79-83? I understand the differences in the transmissions offered and engines changing, but what about things such as quality control, sheet metal used, etc. Were any years better than the others?
Here's a link to what my truck looked like when I sold it last year, and what it looks like now after the new owner did his thing to it: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f114...-build-309089/
Right here on this forum! Check out the entire thread--his mods to the truck are great!
It was an exceptionally nice truck and I then improved it with my mods. I had to drive to Telluride to get it, almost 200 miles. I really can't answer your other questions, other to say that I looked hard for over two years before I bought mine. There are lots of junky, rusty trucks out there.
I really like LCE's parts and customer service. I bought lots of stuff from them and everything worked as I expected. Highly recommend.
2. Good catch on the cover. I hadn't noticed that. I have asked for more pics of the interior and I hope to get them soon
3. No smog test here. The owner claims this isn't a weber carb but it looks like it to me. I honestly don't think he knows much about it mechanically. I think he relies on a mechanic. What's your thoughts on going back with an aisin carb? I'm thinking that if I do any performance upgrades to the engine, which I plan to do, then I will likely need a weber.
It's possible it isn't a Weber, but it's NOT an Aisin either. My Aisin was junk, but lots of people love them. If you de-smog, then there's no good reason for using an Aisin IMHO. If you use a Weber, be sure to get the jet kit too.
4. It is a ton of miles. I plan to rebuild the engine and look into seeing if there is a way to rebuild and/or beef up the transmission. I've read that the L52 has a bearing problem
5. I had that rear bumper as well. I would either try to locate a stock replacement or go aftermarket. Any recommendations here?
I bought one off eBay. Cheap and reasonably nice looking, but not good for towing anything.
6. What condition was your '83 in when you sold it? Any major differences in build quality between the years 79-83? I understand the differences in the transmissions offered and engines changing, but what about things such as quality control, sheet metal used, etc. Were any years better than the others?
Here's a link to what my truck looked like when I sold it last year, and what it looks like now after the new owner did his thing to it: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f114...-build-309089/
Right here on this forum! Check out the entire thread--his mods to the truck are great!
It was an exceptionally nice truck and I then improved it with my mods. I had to drive to Telluride to get it, almost 200 miles. I really can't answer your other questions, other to say that I looked hard for over two years before I bought mine. There are lots of junky, rusty trucks out there.
Feb 12, 2020 | 02:48 PM
#29
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 194
Likes: 41
1. I plan to rebuild the engine and am considering going with a different head anyway. What your thoughts on some of LC Engineering's heads?
I really like LCE's parts and customer service. I bought lots of stuff from them and everything worked as I expected. Highly recommend.
2. Good catch on the cover. I hadn't noticed that. I have asked for more pics of the interior and I hope to get them soon
3. No smog test here. The owner claims this isn't a weber carb but it looks like it to me. I honestly don't think he knows much about it mechanically. I think he relies on a mechanic. What's your thoughts on going back with an aisin carb? I'm thinking that if I do any performance upgrades to the engine, which I plan to do, then I will likely need a weber.
It's possible it isn't a Weber, but it's NOT an Aisin either. My Aisin was junk, but lots of people love them. If you de-smog, then there's no good reason for using an Aisin IMHO. If you use a Weber, be sure to get the jet kit too.
4. It is a ton of miles. I plan to rebuild the engine and look into seeing if there is a way to rebuild and/or beef up the transmission. I've read that the L52 has a bearing problem
5. I had that rear bumper as well. I would either try to locate a stock replacement or go aftermarket. Any recommendations here?
I bought one off eBay. Cheap and reasonably nice looking, but not good for towing anything.
6. What condition was your '83 in when you sold it? Any major differences in build quality between the years 79-83? I understand the differences in the transmissions offered and engines changing, but what about things such as quality control, sheet metal used, etc. Were any years better than the others?
Here's a link to what my truck looked like when I sold it last year, and what it looks like now after the new owner did his thing to it: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f114...-build-309089/
Right here on this forum! Check out the entire thread--his mods to the truck are great!
It was an exceptionally nice truck and I then improved it with my mods. I had to drive to Telluride to get it, almost 200 miles. I really can't answer your other questions, other to say that I looked hard for over two years before I bought mine. There are lots of junky, rusty trucks out there.
I really like LCE's parts and customer service. I bought lots of stuff from them and everything worked as I expected. Highly recommend.
2. Good catch on the cover. I hadn't noticed that. I have asked for more pics of the interior and I hope to get them soon
3. No smog test here. The owner claims this isn't a weber carb but it looks like it to me. I honestly don't think he knows much about it mechanically. I think he relies on a mechanic. What's your thoughts on going back with an aisin carb? I'm thinking that if I do any performance upgrades to the engine, which I plan to do, then I will likely need a weber.
It's possible it isn't a Weber, but it's NOT an Aisin either. My Aisin was junk, but lots of people love them. If you de-smog, then there's no good reason for using an Aisin IMHO. If you use a Weber, be sure to get the jet kit too.
4. It is a ton of miles. I plan to rebuild the engine and look into seeing if there is a way to rebuild and/or beef up the transmission. I've read that the L52 has a bearing problem
5. I had that rear bumper as well. I would either try to locate a stock replacement or go aftermarket. Any recommendations here?
I bought one off eBay. Cheap and reasonably nice looking, but not good for towing anything.
6. What condition was your '83 in when you sold it? Any major differences in build quality between the years 79-83? I understand the differences in the transmissions offered and engines changing, but what about things such as quality control, sheet metal used, etc. Were any years better than the others?
Here's a link to what my truck looked like when I sold it last year, and what it looks like now after the new owner did his thing to it: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f114...-build-309089/
Right here on this forum! Check out the entire thread--his mods to the truck are great!
It was an exceptionally nice truck and I then improved it with my mods. I had to drive to Telluride to get it, almost 200 miles. I really can't answer your other questions, other to say that I looked hard for over two years before I bought mine. There are lots of junky, rusty trucks out there.
I have read that thread!! That’s a beauty! Was it in good shape when you bought it? Have prices went up a lot since then or did you just get lucky on a good price? I have seen some real junk out there and it’s way overpriced
Feb 12, 2020 | 03:32 PM
#30
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 126
Likes: 20
From: Near Grand Junction, CO
My '83 was virtually rust free, as it came from northern California. It's a Deluxe, not an SR5. Front bench was a wreck, so I put in buckets and console from a '94 4Runner. Plus carpet and a dash cover (eBay). It really needed a new carb, so on went the Weber from LCE, and a de-smog at the same time. Lots of suspension & steering work too. Finally a new header and complete exhaust system.
I had to pay $6700 for it, but I still think it was a good deal. Again, prices are mostly dependent on condition, so they can be low or high. I would still have that truck, but at 72 y.o., working on it had become a real PITA so I had to let it go.
I had to pay $6700 for it, but I still think it was a good deal. Again, prices are mostly dependent on condition, so they can be low or high. I would still have that truck, but at 72 y.o., working on it had become a real PITA so I had to let it go.
Feb 13, 2020 | 02:47 AM
#31
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Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 717
Likes: 189
From: Florida
I take it that since it has a/c that the one on there now is the 55 amp. Is this the one that corresponds to the 5 blade voltage regulator? I could have the present owner look. I don't know exactly how mechanically inclined he is though because he kept referencing a mechanic as doing all of his work. If he isn't handy with tools and don't know what to look for is there another way to find out? Ask him to take a pic?
Also should the 55 amp be good for this setup or would I be better off getting something that puts out more amps like a GM alternator? I won't be adding a bunch of lights or anything, but I would like to use the radio and A/C
Also should the 55 amp be good for this setup or would I be better off getting something that puts out more amps like a GM alternator? I won't be adding a bunch of lights or anything, but I would like to use the radio and A/C
Just IMO but you don't need to upgrade the Alternator. Toyota was pretty good in engineering their designs to works as intended with no problems. They always design in some workable "head space" in their vehicles so systems aren't strained for normal usage. That's why Toyotas are known for reliability, it's designed in.
Feb 13, 2020 | 06:32 AM
#32
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 126
Likes: 20
From: Near Grand Junction, CO
A final word of advice: even though the photos of the underside look pretty good, if you decide to go look at the truck, be sure to take some coveralls (or wear old clothes) and take a flashlight with you. You absolutely need to crawl underneath to verify the condition of the frame and other components. THIS IS NOT OPTIONAL!
Feb 13, 2020 | 06:43 AM
#33
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Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 194
Likes: 41
A final word of advice: even though the photos of the underside look pretty good, if you decide to go look at the truck, be sure to take some coveralls (or wear old clothes) and take a flashlight with you. You absolutely need to crawl underneath to verify the condition of the frame and other components. THIS IS NOT OPTIONAL!
Thanks for the advice, Rick. Anywhere in particular I should be looking?
Feb 13, 2020 | 09:36 AM
#34
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 126
Likes: 20
From: Near Grand Junction, CO
For sure, check the frame rails AND the floor of the cab for "excessive" rust or holes. I'm sure I don't need to say that holes in the frame mean that you run away. Also check the exhaust (holes) and shocks (leaks).
Here's a link to what $5000 buys in Denver:
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...8864173327590/
Here's a link to what $5000 buys in Denver:
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...8864173327590/
Feb 13, 2020 | 09:54 AM
#35
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Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 23
Likes: 7
I would much rather have a rotted frame and good body panels. Any monkey can cut and weld new plating in a frame. Not every monkey can cut out windshield corners and fenders, shape new metal, weld it in, and repaint. Frame repairs are much more simple
Feb 13, 2020 | 01:06 PM
#38
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 194
Likes: 41
For sure, check the frame rails AND the floor of the cab for "excessive" rust or holes. I'm sure I don't need to say that holes in the frame mean that you run away. Also check the exhaust (holes) and shocks (leaks).
Here's a link to what $5000 buys in Denver:
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...8864173327590/
Here's a link to what $5000 buys in Denver:
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...8864173327590/
