JonnyBoy

Well, I did some research on how to really tune my Weber perfectly, couldn't find a ton of info for jetting it for a 22r, but I found lots of info nonetheless. Saw a kit that made the progressive Weber into a synchronous Weber, s'posedly helped low to mid range power a bunch.

So I received my kit friday, decided it was a good weekend project. First impressions were that they cut apart pieces of Weber 38 linkage and pieces of 32/36 linkage, then welded the necessary parts together. They looked used, actually. Whatever, should still work.

Got it installed, changed out some jets here and there, figured it should be like a 38 where both barrels jets are the same.

60 primary idle(a touch too large still, actually)
55 secondary idle(will match this with a 55 in the primary or maybe go 57 in each when I get more jets)
140 mains, and 180/190 air correctors(didn't have 2 of the same air jets)
dual 55 pump jet(came in the sync link kit)
As of now with this jet configuration the mixture screw is out 1 turn and the idle screw isn't even touching the linkage and the idle is about 1000 rpm. Makes sense the idle screw is so far out, it's meant to only adjust 1 butterfly.

I gotta say, it shouldn't have helped full throttle any, but it did, and every other throttle position. This was the best $50 I've spent on this truck since getting rid of my Aisin(simply wasn't rebuildable).

I'll keep this thread updated as I change jets and post the best results, as for vehicle info here it is:
'83 4wd shortbed w/33" km2's and 5.29 diffs, stock 22r except Weber, header(not sure brand), and a Thrush turbo muffler.

xxxtreme22r

good job man, idles sounds kinda high, but mixture sounds right according to the mix screw setting. Maybe 1 jet smaller will help? Which kit did you go with?

Oh keep an eye on your plugs as well.

JonnyBoy

I went with the kit from Pegasus. Yeah, I'm thinking of trying 55's in each idle. I remember reading some stuff about tuning the 38's that said not to stagger the jets cause it would cause some strange part throttle reactions. There's no mixture screw for the secondary in our case, so that's why I think it's more important to have the jet sizes perfect. I agree, the idle is high but I can't see a way to get it down any more yet. I'll mess with the linkage more and figure something out, hopefully.

Otherwise I can say whatever tuning issues you've heard of with these kits isn't occuring any more than tuning it progressive. Could be that those people had vacuum leaks or timing issues affecting things, much like they will any carb tuning.

xxxtreme22r

any photos of the sync kit or of the process to convert it?

just so someone else can see here is the stock photo from Pegasus.

JonnyBoy

I'll see if I can take one tomorrow, as well as their instructions, though they're just a blown up diagram of the linkage on the carb, nothing written.

Just need a flatblade screwdriver, 10mm open end wrench, 12mm socket and ratchet, 1/2" box end wrench, and an 8mm, or whatever the std equivalent, wrench or socket. Also ended up using an extra washer just in case it was an interference issue not letting my idle get down.

Remove cable and bracket from the intake and carb, remove 1/2" nut and primary linkage from carb, remove 8mm or so nut and secondary linkage piece, then reassemble in the order directed by the diagram. Not shown in the diagram is how to replace the pump jet, just remove the filter base(4 bolts, 10mm head) then remove the top of the carb with the float assembly(6 screws). Inside you'll see the pump jet held down by a banjo bolt, simply unscrew and replace with the double pump jet. Be careful to keep track of the copper washers above and below the jet. Reinstall and experiment with the idle jets. The main jets and air correctors probably don't need to be changed if it was ok before at full throttle and higher rpms.

JonnyBoy

Well, I got to drive it down a lil lower in elevation, just a lil over 2,000', and it was kinda leaning out. So I think my final jet setup is gonna be 60 idles, 140 mains, and I may get a matching set of air correctors, but that's more of a high rpm adjustment, so it's not priority. Gotta rebuild my starter so it runs period, first. Also won't be doing much tuning cause my girl kinda has pancreatitis, so I just need to get my Runner going for long drives again.

nick-crain-87yota

hey jonnyboy im trying to tune up my carb. where exactly are the air correctors? are they jets? or what are they exactly?

xxxtreme22r

this might help: http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/v/vs...3236DGAVEV.pdf

KryptoRoxx

The way I understood it the secondary should be the larger of the two jets. I could be completely wrong though. Also I wouldn't change to the same size in both barrels just because of the difference in the size of the two barrels. Just my opinion and if I'm wrong then I would love to know why. I'm interested in the kit though. I hadn't really shopped around for something like that.

xxxtreme22r

if you sync both barrels your gonna have to downsize the secondaries as it will be way too much fuel sent at the same time.

And as far as the secondary being bigger than the primary your wrong, from the factory these ship with the same size primary and secondary main jets 1.40mm and the primary idle jet is bigger than the secondary idle jet. .60mm pri idle and .50mm sec idle.

KryptoRoxx

......crap. Looks like I should probably re-jet my carb then. Here's what I have right now and when I re-jetted it had roughly the same setup. I just went down a size in fuel and two sizes up with air since I'm at a mile in elevation at all times.

Primary Idle was 60 so I went down a size to 55
Secondary Idle was 50 so I went down to 45
Primary Air Correction was 170 and now it's 200 (probably a little big)
Secondary Air Correction was 180 and now it's 210 (again probably too big)
Primary Main was 140 and now it's 135
Secondary Main was 150 and now it's 145

It does run pretty well....better than it did at least. But I'm very open for tips and suggestions I have a full set of high elevation jets.

xxxtreme22r

As far as major tuning these things, I am still somewhat new to them. I just recently went up one size to a 65 jet just in the primary idle jet, seemed to help me. My idle mix screw is much more where it's supposed to be, I can probably go up one more to a 70.

THose numbers I gave were for a 32/36 DGEV/DGAV and not the manual choke DGV. I don't know what they are with the DGV but cannot be much different if at all. The site that pdf for the DGEV/DGAV is www.webercarbsdirect.com and they have the schematics which show what each one of these carbs come with stock.

KryptoRoxx

The only major changes I made from stock really was the air correctors. I have to do some work on the Carb anyway so I'll go back to what the stock or one setting higher than stock in the primary and secondary fuel jets. I like where the idle is.

JonnyBoy

Actually Xxx, for whatever reason the stock jetting is 140/135 for the DGV mains. Thanks for answering the first question, btw.

I've read up a bit and experimented some but not enough to be an expert on the air correctors, and people with smaller 4 cyls(think MG's and BMW 2002's and such) suggest a difference of 50 between the mains and air corrector jets. They also say that the air correctors make more of a difference at higher rpms, so probably not a big concern of ours unless you're running a pretty high dollar motor.

I still wanna try going to 57 in both idles to try and perfect it, but that's on hold for now. I'll probably have to re-do all this tuning and testing when I rebuild the motor, seein as how I have rod knock already now and it's burning oil.

xxxtreme22r

Thanks johnny, that's why I had said the numbers were for the DGEV/DGAV, as I hadn't looked at the DGV diagram.

I am hesitant to do anything to mine until I get that cam gear in as I know 100% that my cam timing if off by at least 2-3 degrees because of the block having been shaved. It's not running overly rich or lean but can be a lite better in response when at a lower rpm and a higher gear. Get this thing above 2300 RPM or so and it wakes up. Dies out a little at 4500 RPM or so. Which isn't a big deal to me unless I am doing a mud bog.

JonnyBoy

Yeah, I can see why you'd wanna wait, but that lower rpm range is exactly where the sync link kit helps out. I have noticed a little more fuel usage, but unfortunately I can't compare it to stock aisin as mine was never driveable with it on. One of these days I'll actually crunch some numbers and get a mpg for ya.

JonnyBoy

Ok, did a mileage check this last tank of gas...some assumptions were made in the math, some rounding here and there, but I got 16.5 mpg with 200# of sand and tools in the bed and just me in the truck(215# or so) on hwy driving conditions(70 to 75 cruising speeds).

Anyone want to check my numbers, here they are:

128 mi(didn't drive a full tank, but I started with a full tank, not topped off, and even went to the exact same pump) odometer reading
33" Rev/Mi=611.46
5.29 Ratio, so assuming that's a match to 35's...
35" Rev/Mi=576.54
So 576.54/611.46=.943
So 128x.943=120.7 actual miles
Then 120.7 mi/7.3 gal=16.5 mi/gal

Is that right, or am I just on crack today?
Anyway, ordered some 57 main and secondary jets yesterday, along with another 190 air corrector so I can have matching in each venturi, so I'll update this again when I get a chance to install those. I'll probably try to get a full tank run in before that so I can potentially see a difference.

JonnyBoy

Bringing this back from the dead so I can kill it again.

I ran another full tank, right about 16-16.5 mpg again. Realized I took the long way around to figure out my mileage last time, but it was the same once I realized I just needed to divide 4.88(what I should have) by 5.29(what I do have) and multiply that number by the odometer miles to get a corrected mileage.

I got secondary 57, but instead of sending the primary 57 I ordered, I got a 45 from LCE, so a little annoyed there. Took a wheeling trip to Ridgecrest with a buddy who has a 32/36 on his Samurai, but he's still using the 57 primary jet I let him borrow and hasn't tried the 55 yet, so I couldn't snatch it back from him. Oh well, it runs good with the 60's, so I'll probably just leave it be til I rebuild the engine.

And why I'm killing the thread(for awhile at least) is the truck seems to be falling apart around the drivetrain again. One of the v6 calipers I bought from Kragen/O'reilly is leaking from the pistons, the Thrush muffler is tearing apart because it's weight was unsupported behind it, so I'll have to weld that shut, and the suspension is still original. I've got various pieces of the lift already, so I'll probably park it, lift it, and rebuild the engine over the summer while I've got money from overtime on fires.

It'll be awhile, but I'll resurrect this when I tune it all over again, but if anyone else tinkers with their setup, feel free to post findings/thoughts here for others to read.

KryptoRoxx

*Update* I did re-tune the truck and now that the fuel went up one size on primary and secondary it is a lot smoother through all the rpms and I can finally reach 80mph so I'm happy. 80mph in that little truck can be a little on the death wish side though. I've got some wobbles at that speed lol.

Ouch about the little stuff. I've been having that crap too though. I'm toying around with a 7gme swap. It might be above my price level in the end but I'm exploring anyway.

JonnyBoy

Yeah, but then again part of the problem is that I didn't build this thing to be my daily driver, but when I needed to get bearings done on the rear axle of the Runner and couldn't figure out my wobble in it, the '83 did just that. I'm sure the Trail-Gear motor and transfer case mount didn't help, transmitting every little knock and vibration from the engine directly to the frame! It's not really loud outside the truck, but if you go for a highway drive you feel like you stood in the center of a dozen World Cuppers playing vuvuzelas for a couple hours.

Good to hear yours is running right, but if 80 makes you wet yourself a little in your truck, you probably shouldn't be swapping in a 7mge. What's your final jet setup then? Where are you at that you're at a mile elevation? That can make a difference on your jetting, too. If you're in a place that's high and also hot, it will make it seem like you're even higher in elevation.

I'm at about 4,000' up to 9,200', but it also gets pretty hot here in the summer on the valley floor(4,000'). Somewhat regularly over 100. Luckily elevation has less effect on a Weber than it does on a Holley. My '69 Ford with a 670 Street Avenger had to have a jet change pretty much every 1,000' elevation difference