Weber 32/36 issue, LOOK AT THESE PICS
02-24-2016, 02:49 PM
#21
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NOt 100% sure old83. When I took it apart, the throttle shafts looked completed fine. I didn't and still don't notice any binding or anything that doesn't fit as it should.
02-24-2016, 03:09 PM
#22
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I decided I would try something else tomorrow. I'll use a bulb and add some fuel to the secondary side while I simultaneously wrap the throttle to reproduce the bog/delay. If that works, then maybe that narrows down the problem. I would think that would be worth trying.
02-25-2016, 01:58 PM
#23
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Got a few more thoughts...all the screws holding it together are tight? the right gaskets and O rings in good condition? Are the carb to manifold fasteners loose or to tight? Vacuum leaks? Other then that, short of holding it in my own hands and looking it over...I don't know! I just hate laying out that kind of money for a new carb and its not the problem or it was a 10 cent fix.
Last edited by Old83@pincher; 02-25-2016 at 02:18 PM.
02-25-2016, 02:57 PM
#24
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thank you for the advice Old83.
Yes, all the screws, gaskets, orings, etc all look great. I just installed a new LCE Spiral adapter last week since the old 2 piece looked very sketchy. Needless to say, no change.
I checked for vacuum leaks a few months ago and it registered good vacuum. At the time I discovered that neither of the vacuum advances on the dizzy worked and replaced it. Ran better after doing that since it was advancing as it should but it didn't change the bog.
I have a new fuel pump here in a box. I doubt that is the problem but I can sure try a new one. running out of options and getting frustrated but I feel I'm a lot closer to the solution than I was a few weeks ago.
Yes, all the screws, gaskets, orings, etc all look great. I just installed a new LCE Spiral adapter last week since the old 2 piece looked very sketchy. Needless to say, no change.
I checked for vacuum leaks a few months ago and it registered good vacuum. At the time I discovered that neither of the vacuum advances on the dizzy worked and replaced it. Ran better after doing that since it was advancing as it should but it didn't change the bog.
I have a new fuel pump here in a box. I doubt that is the problem but I can sure try a new one. running out of options and getting frustrated but I feel I'm a lot closer to the solution than I was a few weeks ago.
02-26-2016, 07:03 PM
#25
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DO ANY OF YOU GUYS THINK IT MIGHT BE BAD GROUND or some sort of electrical problem? I've had 2 distributors and it happened with both. She has been rewired and I wouldn't say it was a professional job, but I haven't witnessed any problems caused by it either. The only sign of a possible electrical problem I see is something that happens with my tach. I have an aftermarket tach with the lead on my COIL WIRE that goes to my dizzy.
THIS IS WHAT IT DOES: IF I"m in the wrong gear and not turning enough RPM for the speed I"m going and I try to accelerate, the tach goes crazy. FOR EXAMPLE: Let's say im in 4th gear (1:1) at 35mph and I floor it or give it any more than 75% throttle, the tach start jumping wildly all over the place even though the RPM of the engine is not. The RPM of the engine might be 1600 and the needle will by fluctuating from 1000 rpm to 7000 rpm. It does this no matter what gear I"m in anytime I try to accelerate when I'm in the wrong gear (rpm too low). Yet if I down shift into the right gear, let's say 3rd gear going 35 and I give it full throttle, the tach needle moves fluidly. Same thing happens if I try to take off in 2nd gear (which sh will do, but the RPM's are not ideal for what I'm trying to do, therefore the engine lugs, and the tach goes crazy).
DOES THIS SOUND RIGHT TO YOU? by the way, I've tried a new coil and it changed nothing. I did NOT try a new igniter though.
Do you have any ideas on this?
THIS IS WHAT IT DOES: IF I"m in the wrong gear and not turning enough RPM for the speed I"m going and I try to accelerate, the tach goes crazy. FOR EXAMPLE: Let's say im in 4th gear (1:1) at 35mph and I floor it or give it any more than 75% throttle, the tach start jumping wildly all over the place even though the RPM of the engine is not. The RPM of the engine might be 1600 and the needle will by fluctuating from 1000 rpm to 7000 rpm. It does this no matter what gear I"m in anytime I try to accelerate when I'm in the wrong gear (rpm too low). Yet if I down shift into the right gear, let's say 3rd gear going 35 and I give it full throttle, the tach needle moves fluidly. Same thing happens if I try to take off in 2nd gear (which sh will do, but the RPM's are not ideal for what I'm trying to do, therefore the engine lugs, and the tach goes crazy).
DOES THIS SOUND RIGHT TO YOU? by the way, I've tried a new coil and it changed nothing. I did NOT try a new igniter though.
Do you have any ideas on this?
03-03-2016, 10:57 PM
#27
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Weber 32/36 or 38
I'm going to order a new Carb. The guys at REDLINE are suggesting that I order a 38. I have a stock early 80's desmogged 22r in a 2000lb car with 4spd manual. I don't plan on changing the cam or any internals. I do mostly city driving but I drive her very little. It's a weekend car and even then, only occasionally. I would think the 38 would be overkill.
WHAT DO YOU THINK?
WHAT DO YOU THINK?
05-01-2016, 09:33 AM
#29
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Before I start with the details, if you do not have a fuel pressure regulator then that is only going to complicate your problem. Without a FPR, you will be blowing the main jet right off its seat thus negating the function of the floats and flooding the bowl. If you don't have a FPR, that's probably why you have a rich fuel smell.
When you punch the 32/36 into the secondaries, the accelerator pump has the tendency to not be able to keep up OR the secondaries are dumping too much fuel into the mixture. If it is lean then you need a larger secondary main jet and smaller secondary air corrector (or combination of both). If it is rich then you need a smaller secondary main jet or a larger secondary air corrector (or combination of both).
But before you do anything, get a fuel pressure regulator and set it to about 2.5 PSI. Anything you do before that is simply a waste of your time.
When you punch the 32/36 into the secondaries, the accelerator pump has the tendency to not be able to keep up OR the secondaries are dumping too much fuel into the mixture. If it is lean then you need a larger secondary main jet and smaller secondary air corrector (or combination of both). If it is rich then you need a smaller secondary main jet or a larger secondary air corrector (or combination of both).
But before you do anything, get a fuel pressure regulator and set it to about 2.5 PSI. Anything you do before that is simply a waste of your time.
05-05-2016, 03:43 AM
#30
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robbie,
start a new thread. real webers have a stamp on bottom flange.
32/36 only has one idle mixture screw on corner of lower flange
38 has 2 idle mixture screws one on passenger side other on drivers, also has mesh gears @ accelerator linkage
clogged fuel filter,dead fuel pump, out of gas...
start a new thread. real webers have a stamp on bottom flange.
32/36 only has one idle mixture screw on corner of lower flange
38 has 2 idle mixture screws one on passenger side other on drivers, also has mesh gears @ accelerator linkage
clogged fuel filter,dead fuel pump, out of gas...
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