anyone bought a refurb or aftermarket regulator? Oem is 150 yeesh, i see refurbs for 50 but dont want to waste money if i need to buy once cry once Ill get the tissue ready.


My regulator read 50v according to fsm load test, should be around 15🙁

 

I've had zero issues with aftermarket voltage regulators from Standard Motor Products (SMP). Just make sure you get the correct one for your application, some use 5 pin connectors and other have 6 pins.
Reference: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota

 

Thank you! I realized after that post that I didnt do my tests right, my battery was charging after I plugged everything back in. I might grab a regulator just in case though.

Im glad to see you are still active here: Ive had a 5000 ft elevation shift since I tuned my carb so I might have some questions for you since you are one of the few people that understands the aisin carb

 

Depending on the age & mileage of your current regulator, you may want to consider replacing it anyway. While these "old style" external regulators works well and are pretty durable, they do operate on a set of physical contact points, unlike the more modern all electronic versions, The contact points can wear down & degrade over time & use, and internal physical damage is possible from mechanical wear. Just IMO but I'd replace if the regulator or the vehicle it is in has 200K miles or more or is 20 or more years old. It's cheap insurance for future use.

I have come to understand the Aisin carb a fair amount but do not consider myself to be an expert on them. If you've already run some at that new, higher elevation, have a look at your spark plugs. If the plugs are fouling (black deposits) then the carb's jet sizes may be* large for the elevation. There can also be some other symptoms of this like black smoke and/or raw fuel smell from the exhaust pipe, fouled plugs, lower MPG than before, engine seems to lack power, rough idle that does not change with an idle mixture adjustment, and possibly even an idle that seems to have a "miss".
*I said may be because the main factor affecting all this is air pressure, which goes down the higher up you go. This means the "weight" or pressure of the air pressing down on the fuel in the carb is less than at sea level. It also means that engine vacuum will be less, as the air at elevation is less dense.
There are several things on a carb that can be changed or adjusted to compensate for this, depending on the elevation, the engines needs, & the carb itself.
For jet sizing, the rule of thumb is go down 1 or 2 jet sizes smaller than stock for each 1000 feet gained in elevation. This restricts atomized fuel flow. Unfortunately, there are no jet kits on the market for the stock Aisin carbs. There ARE high altitude jet kits for the Weber 32/36, but Weber jets may ot may not fit in an Aisin. I personally doubt they would fit.
I have also heard it's possible to adjust the float level to a slightly lower level to compensate without doing a jet size change.
I'm sure all of this will depend on how the engine responds to these changes; each model of engine has it's own characteristics.

My personal opinion (and I could be dead wrong on this, as I have no personal experience on this) is that it might not take too much tinkering to get it running at least somewhat decently at your altitude, but it might take a swap to a Weber 32/36 at worst, so you can use their jet kit to "dial it in".
At the very least I'd do a retune on the idle fuel mixture screw first & see if I can get a decent idle out of it. But keep in mind that will not solve or help the too-big" jet problem, IF the stock jets are causing the symptoms noted above.

If anyone else out there with carb experience wants to tell me I'm wrong on anything I've said here or my understanding of this is wrong, I welcome it & any corrections. At the end of the day I'm only concerned with getting it right.