new 83 have a few ?s
Mar 2, 2009 | 11:15 AM
#1
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From: va beach
new 83 have a few ?s
i just sold my 88 v6 to pick up a 83 22r. i m happy with the move even though i m getting a older truck, older just means she has been around the block a few more times and knows more lol. i have a few snags i m running into,
1. the steering seems off, when the wheels are straight and the steering wheel is straight everything lines up. turn the wheel to the right and it turns just fine, turn it to the left and it takes two to three more turns to move the wheel.
things i have looked at for this are the power steering fluid, it was low, very low filled it up with no change.
maybe i m not use to having a solid axle and am use to the ifs steering
2. i have the battery and the brake light come on at the same time and go off at the same time. they do this at random times when driving for random times.
checked level and belts with no change with the problem.
3. the last problem is that there is no heat coming out of the vents.
i have not checked this one yet.
any help on these
1. the steering seems off, when the wheels are straight and the steering wheel is straight everything lines up. turn the wheel to the right and it turns just fine, turn it to the left and it takes two to three more turns to move the wheel.
things i have looked at for this are the power steering fluid, it was low, very low filled it up with no change.
maybe i m not use to having a solid axle and am use to the ifs steering
2. i have the battery and the brake light come on at the same time and go off at the same time. they do this at random times when driving for random times.
checked level and belts with no change with the problem.
3. the last problem is that there is no heat coming out of the vents.
i have not checked this one yet.
any help on these
Mar 2, 2009 | 11:45 AM
#2
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From: Oregon
Lets address the steering issue first, with the wheels straight unhook the draglink on the side down from the steering box. To doio this pull the cotter pin and using a screwdriver unscre the cup end, then pull up. Now take your steering wheel and crank it over all the way to one side. Then count the number of turns it takes to get it back the other way. Now divide the total number in half and thats your center. Turn the wheel that many turns and go back and try and connect the drag link up. If somene has played with the steering it will not hook up, if every thing is ok them maybe your powersteering is failing and allowing it to slip internally just a thought. If it does not line up lengthen or shorten the draglink until you have the correct length. By the way this is also how you would get your steering wheel to indexed the right way. By lenghtening or shortening in minute amounts you can index the wheel. Grease it back up and you should be good to go.
2. it would look for a wire that's been chaffed through and making a contact. Mine had a wire back near the bumper that wore through and was blowing fuses out. as a thougth check your connection at the back of the gauge cluster. clean the contacts with a pencil eraser and reconnect and see if i goes away.
3. If you heater core is not clogged, look under the dash where the vent system is located a cable connects to the control underneath, mine popped of and just needed to be place back on, it nay be that easy.
I hope this helps you out.
I hope this helps
2. it would look for a wire that's been chaffed through and making a contact. Mine had a wire back near the bumper that wore through and was blowing fuses out. as a thougth check your connection at the back of the gauge cluster. clean the contacts with a pencil eraser and reconnect and see if i goes away.
3. If you heater core is not clogged, look under the dash where the vent system is located a cable connects to the control underneath, mine popped of and just needed to be place back on, it nay be that easy.
I hope this helps you out.
I hope this helps
Mar 2, 2009 | 12:19 PM
#3
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On a 1st gen truck if you have it in the vent position it is just that a vent, you have to have it in the heater selection. Also check to make sure that the cable and valve are working properly. Pull the hose next to the valve and make sure it is not rusted closed.
When the battery and brake lights come on at the same time it means you are not getting a charge. Could be anything from a bad alt. to a bad ground or connection. If it is just a connection check behind the alt. to make sure everything is tight, then check to make sure all the battery connections are in good shape. Next check engine grounds, you should have a ground wire from the battery to the wheel well one from the wheel well to the motor mount one from the engine to the firewall. Make sure all of these connections are good. Also metallic debris inside the battery can cause intermittent shorts creating this issue.
With the steering it sounds like someone compensated for a lift by adjusting the steering improperly, first center the steering wheel now check the steering box and make sure the arm is centered, if not you need to re-center the box to the neutral position (center). Now this will make your steering wheel off center but you can do what he OR did and pull it and then recenter it the way it was. You should get about 3 1/2 revolutions on the steering wheel lock to lock if one side has more then the other you are not in the neutral position for the box which also make the pump work while you are trying to go straight.
When the battery and brake lights come on at the same time it means you are not getting a charge. Could be anything from a bad alt. to a bad ground or connection. If it is just a connection check behind the alt. to make sure everything is tight, then check to make sure all the battery connections are in good shape. Next check engine grounds, you should have a ground wire from the battery to the wheel well one from the wheel well to the motor mount one from the engine to the firewall. Make sure all of these connections are good. Also metallic debris inside the battery can cause intermittent shorts creating this issue.
With the steering it sounds like someone compensated for a lift by adjusting the steering improperly, first center the steering wheel now check the steering box and make sure the arm is centered, if not you need to re-center the box to the neutral position (center). Now this will make your steering wheel off center but you can do what he OR did and pull it and then recenter it the way it was. You should get about 3 1/2 revolutions on the steering wheel lock to lock if one side has more then the other you are not in the neutral position for the box which also make the pump work while you are trying to go straight.
Mar 2, 2009 | 01:41 PM
#4
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 784
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From: MN
On a 1st gen truck if you have it in the vent position it is just that a vent, you have to have it in the heater selection. Also check to make sure that the cable and valve are working properly. Pull the hose next to the valve and make sure it is not rusted closed.
When the battery and brake lights come on at the same time it means you are not getting a charge. Could be anything from a bad alt. to a bad ground or connection. If it is just a connection check behind the alt. to make sure everything is tight, then check to make sure all the battery connections are in good shape. Next check engine grounds, you should have a ground wire from the battery to the wheel well one from the wheel well to the motor mount one from the engine to the firewall. Make sure all of these connections are good. Also metallic debris inside the battery can cause intermittent shorts creating this issue.
With the steering it sounds like someone compensated for a lift by adjusting the steering improperly, first center the steering wheel now check the steering box and make sure the arm is centered, if not you need to re-center the box to the neutral position (center). Now this will make your steering wheel off center but you can do what he OR did and pull it and then recenter it the way it was. You should get about 3 1/2 revolutions on the steering wheel lock to lock if one side has more then the other you are not in the neutral position for the box which also make the pump work while you are trying to go straight.
When the battery and brake lights come on at the same time it means you are not getting a charge. Could be anything from a bad alt. to a bad ground or connection. If it is just a connection check behind the alt. to make sure everything is tight, then check to make sure all the battery connections are in good shape. Next check engine grounds, you should have a ground wire from the battery to the wheel well one from the wheel well to the motor mount one from the engine to the firewall. Make sure all of these connections are good. Also metallic debris inside the battery can cause intermittent shorts creating this issue.
With the steering it sounds like someone compensated for a lift by adjusting the steering improperly, first center the steering wheel now check the steering box and make sure the arm is centered, if not you need to re-center the box to the neutral position (center). Now this will make your steering wheel off center but you can do what he OR did and pull it and then recenter it the way it was. You should get about 3 1/2 revolutions on the steering wheel lock to lock if one side has more then the other you are not in the neutral position for the box which also make the pump work while you are trying to go straight.
Mar 2, 2009 | 01:47 PM
#5
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 18
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From: va beach
Lets address the steering issue first, with the wheels straight unhook the draglink on the side down from the steering box. To doio this pull the cotter pin and using a screwdriver unscre the cup end, then pull up. Now take your steering wheel and crank it over all the way to one side. Then count the number of turns it takes to get it back the other way. Now divide the total number in half and thats your center. Turn the wheel that many turns and go back and try and connect the drag link up. If somene has played with the steering it will not hook up, if every thing is ok them maybe your powersteering is failing and allowing it to slip internally just a thought. If it does not line up lengthen or shorten the draglink until you have the correct length. By the way this is also how you would get your steering wheel to indexed the right way. By lenghtening or shortening in minute amounts you can index the wheel. Grease it back up and you should be good to go.
2. it would look for a wire that's been chaffed through and making a contact. Mine had a wire back near the bumper that wore through and was blowing fuses out. as a thougth check your connection at the back of the gauge cluster. clean the contacts with a pencil eraser and reconnect and see if i goes away.
3. If you heater core is not clogged, look under the dash where the vent system is located a cable connects to the control underneath, mine popped of and just needed to be place back on, it nay be that easy.
I hope this helps you out.
I hope this helps
2. it would look for a wire that's been chaffed through and making a contact. Mine had a wire back near the bumper that wore through and was blowing fuses out. as a thougth check your connection at the back of the gauge cluster. clean the contacts with a pencil eraser and reconnect and see if i goes away.
3. If you heater core is not clogged, look under the dash where the vent system is located a cable connects to the control underneath, mine popped of and just needed to be place back on, it nay be that easy.
I hope this helps you out.
I hope this helps
2. my next move was goin to be to trace all wires to make sure they are connected good and ground out.
3. i will look to see if it is clogged. i thought it was either a power or the core was bad.
On a 1st gen truck if you have it in the vent position it is just that a vent, you have to have it in the heater selection. Also check to make sure that the cable and valve are working properly. Pull the hose next to the valve and make sure it is not rusted closed.
i looked at the vents this morning and everything seems to work fine except it does not want to go to the defrost position, all cables look to be pulling fine though.
When the battery and brake lights come on at the same time it means you are not getting a charge. Could be anything from a bad alt. to a bad ground or connection. If it is just a connection check behind the alt. to make sure everything is tight, then check to make sure all the battery connections are in good shape. Next check engine grounds, you should have a ground wire from the battery to the wheel well one from the wheel well to the motor mount one from the engine to the firewall. Make sure all of these connections are good. Also metallic debris inside the battery can cause intermittent shorts creating this issue.
i can take the alt to the local parts store and have them test it. the battery came out of my 88 yota and i bought it less then a month ago and it holds a charge. the battery connections look to be in good order also and tighten down. at first i was told that the brake light was low fluid and i topped it off thinking well just maybe. i was also told that the battery light was the belt lose. replaced all but one belt so far everything was tightened down all the way.
i looked inside the haynes manual and found that the battery light could be loose belt, bad connect, or incoplete currcit. after talking to you both i m leaning towards bad currcit, i.e. wire not grounded or chafed, something like that.
With the steering it sounds like someone compensated for a lift by adjusting the steering improperly, first center the steering wheel now check the steering box and make sure the arm is centered, if not you need to re-center the box to the neutral position (center). Now this will make your steering wheel off center but you can do what he OR did and pull it and then recenter it the way it was. You should get about 3 1/2 revolutions on the steering wheel lock to lock if one side has more then the other you are not in the neutral position for the box which also make the pump work while you are trying to go straight.
i m sorry i fogot to say it has a 7inch lift, soon to be lowwered though. i will look at everything you both have said tomorrow. you both seem to think it is the same problem.
i looked at the vents this morning and everything seems to work fine except it does not want to go to the defrost position, all cables look to be pulling fine though.
When the battery and brake lights come on at the same time it means you are not getting a charge. Could be anything from a bad alt. to a bad ground or connection. If it is just a connection check behind the alt. to make sure everything is tight, then check to make sure all the battery connections are in good shape. Next check engine grounds, you should have a ground wire from the battery to the wheel well one from the wheel well to the motor mount one from the engine to the firewall. Make sure all of these connections are good. Also metallic debris inside the battery can cause intermittent shorts creating this issue.
i can take the alt to the local parts store and have them test it. the battery came out of my 88 yota and i bought it less then a month ago and it holds a charge. the battery connections look to be in good order also and tighten down. at first i was told that the brake light was low fluid and i topped it off thinking well just maybe. i was also told that the battery light was the belt lose. replaced all but one belt so far everything was tightened down all the way.
i looked inside the haynes manual and found that the battery light could be loose belt, bad connect, or incoplete currcit. after talking to you both i m leaning towards bad currcit, i.e. wire not grounded or chafed, something like that.
With the steering it sounds like someone compensated for a lift by adjusting the steering improperly, first center the steering wheel now check the steering box and make sure the arm is centered, if not you need to re-center the box to the neutral position (center). Now this will make your steering wheel off center but you can do what he OR did and pull it and then recenter it the way it was. You should get about 3 1/2 revolutions on the steering wheel lock to lock if one side has more then the other you are not in the neutral position for the box which also make the pump work while you are trying to go straight.
i m sorry i fogot to say it has a 7inch lift, soon to be lowwered though. i will look at everything you both have said tomorrow. you both seem to think it is the same problem.
thank you for the replies also.
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Mar 2, 2009 | 02:54 PM
#8
First Gen push pull steering IMO leaves a little bit to be desired, I didn't know what I was missing until I converted to High steer with a 94 IFS steering box.
Anyway congrats on your purchase. Is your truck running a dropped draglink to compensate for the lift?
Some sloppyness in the steering can also be helped (though this might not help if yours is only wierd in one direction) but tightening the steering box. This procedure is from my '81 Toyota Factory manual.
Sounds like you are on the right track going to a lower lift and tracking down the wiring gremlins.
Here is a link to the wiring diagram for my '81, you have to peice the diagram together (don't have a means to put it into PDF) might be similar to '83
1981 TOyota Truck Wiring Diagram
Anyway congrats on your purchase. Is your truck running a dropped draglink to compensate for the lift?
Some sloppyness in the steering can also be helped (though this might not help if yours is only wierd in one direction) but tightening the steering box. This procedure is from my '81 Toyota Factory manual.
Sounds like you are on the right track going to a lower lift and tracking down the wiring gremlins.
Here is a link to the wiring diagram for my '81, you have to peice the diagram together (don't have a means to put it into PDF) might be similar to '83
1981 TOyota Truck Wiring Diagram
Mar 2, 2009 | 03:03 PM
#9
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Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 26
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Worn steering components generally will not create extra turns of the steering wheel from left to right. Worn components will create a loose condition including wobble, but will not create extra turns of the wheel. Normally extra turns from center means someone played with the steering and now have the box off center and in the power mode for the box which sends the fluid to the box to assist in the steering since the valve is open to either the right or left side. This can cause a few issues including the vehicle seems to be able to turn sharper one direction over the other. If he is getting lets say as an example only 2 turns to the left an 4 to the right then his problem is the box is off center. I might be reading this wrong but that's what I'm hearing is that it requires more turns of the steering wheel to turn from one direction to the other from center. What that also means is he will be able to turn sharper one direction to the other.
Mar 2, 2009 | 03:08 PM
#10
missed that part
, Rocksurfer: you reminded when you talked about someone playing with the steering--when I replaced the pitman arm when i did the high steer conversion the first time I was a couple of splines off when I installed the pitman arm causing a similar issue, turned fine to the right, but left turns
, Rocksurfer: you reminded when you talked about someone playing with the steering--when I replaced the pitman arm when i did the high steer conversion the first time I was a couple of splines off when I installed the pitman arm causing a similar issue, turned fine to the right, but left turns
Mar 2, 2009 | 05:28 PM
#11
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 784
Likes: 0
From: MN
First Gen push pull steering IMO leaves a little bit to be desired, I didn't know what I was missing until I converted to High steer with a 94 IFS steering box.
Anyway congrats on your purchase. Is your truck running a dropped draglink to compensate for the lift?
Some sloppyness in the steering can also be helped (though this might not help if yours is only wierd in one direction) but tightening the steering box. This procedure is from my '81 Toyota Factory manual.
Sounds like you are on the right track going to a lower lift and tracking down the wiring gremlins.
Here is a link to the wiring diagram for my '81, you have to peice the diagram together (don't have a means to put it into PDF) might be similar to '83
1981 TOyota Truck Wiring Diagram
Anyway congrats on your purchase. Is your truck running a dropped draglink to compensate for the lift?
Some sloppyness in the steering can also be helped (though this might not help if yours is only wierd in one direction) but tightening the steering box. This procedure is from my '81 Toyota Factory manual.
Sounds like you are on the right track going to a lower lift and tracking down the wiring gremlins.
Here is a link to the wiring diagram for my '81, you have to peice the diagram together (don't have a means to put it into PDF) might be similar to '83
1981 TOyota Truck Wiring Diagram
When I turn my wheel either way it has a dry scratchy sound, like its dry? would a low oil level make it sound that way???
I want to check mine asap what do I do it does not seem there is a way to check it???
Mar 2, 2009 | 05:47 PM
#12
I think there is some info on 4crawlers site: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/index.shtml#MODIFICATION$
wish I could be more help,
Mar 2, 2009 | 06:04 PM
#13
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 784
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From: MN
I checked the manual again, and was hopiing I still had my old steering box but no luck. I am thinking there must be some kind of fill/inspection screw about where the diagram indicates..low level could possibly account for that or possibly a warn steering gear.
I think there is some info on 4crawlers site: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/index.shtml#MODIFICATION$
wish I could be more help,
I think there is some info on 4crawlers site: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/index.shtml#MODIFICATION$
wish I could be more help,
pic of the box in my truck....
op, I hope its ok I figured its for a learing about steering for all type thing?
Mar 2, 2009 | 07:37 PM
#14
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Joined: Jan 2009
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From: va beach
pics will come later this week. had some crappy weather here in va beach
First Gen push pull steering IMO leaves a little bit to be desired, I didn't know what I was missing until I converted to High steer with a 94 IFS steering box.
i might end up doing that down the road
Anyway congrats on your purchase. Is your truck running a dropped draglink to compensate for the lift?
i dont think so i need to relook at all the steering components tomorrow last night i did not have the best off light and was doing the basic tune ups.
Some sloppyness in the steering can also be helped (though this might not help if yours is only wierd in one direction) but tightening the steering box. This procedure is from my '81 Toyota Factory manual.
i only have the slop when turning to the left.
Sounds like you are on the right track going to a lower lift and tracking down the wiring gremlins.
Here is a link to the wiring diagram for my '81, you have to peice the diagram together (don't have a means to put it into PDF) might be similar to '83
1981 TOyota Truck Wiring Diagram
thank you for this it should help.
i might end up doing that down the road
Anyway congrats on your purchase. Is your truck running a dropped draglink to compensate for the lift?
i dont think so i need to relook at all the steering components tomorrow last night i did not have the best off light and was doing the basic tune ups.
Some sloppyness in the steering can also be helped (though this might not help if yours is only wierd in one direction) but tightening the steering box. This procedure is from my '81 Toyota Factory manual.
i only have the slop when turning to the left.
Sounds like you are on the right track going to a lower lift and tracking down the wiring gremlins.
Here is a link to the wiring diagram for my '81, you have to peice the diagram together (don't have a means to put it into PDF) might be similar to '83
1981 TOyota Truck Wiring Diagram
thank you for this it should help.
Worn steering components generally will not create extra turns of the steering wheel from left to right. Worn components will create a loose condition including wobble, but will not create extra turns of the wheel. Normally extra turns from center means someone played with the steering and now have the box off center and in the power mode for the box which sends the fluid to the box to assist in the steering since the valve is open to either the right or left side. This can cause a few issues including the vehicle seems to be able to turn sharper one direction over the other. If he is getting lets say as an example only 2 turns to the left an 4 to the right then his problem is the box is off center. I might be reading this wrong but that's what I'm hearing is that it requires more turns of the steering wheel to turn from one direction to the other from center. What that also means is he will be able to turn sharper one direction to the other.
Yeah I looked on it, and see a breather, but that is shown on the pic? I sprayed a aresol grease on that whole shaft from the box to the fireway, and for awhile it did not make noise, now its back??? I re sprayed and it still makes a dryish strachy sound.
pic of the box in my truck....
op, I hope its ok I figured its for a learing about steering for all type thing?
pic of the box in my truck....
op, I hope its ok I figured its for a learing about steering for all type thing?
it is ok man
Mar 2, 2009 | 09:52 PM
#16
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Joined: Mar 2005
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From: MN
mine only comes from lower under dash vents and defrost vents, none rom center vents?
Mar 2, 2009 | 11:12 PM
#17
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From: va beach
Mar 3, 2009 | 05:44 AM
#19
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Are there some bearings up there within the steering column or something that can be greased?
Last edited by MaximRecoil; Mar 3, 2009 at 05:46 AM.
Mar 3, 2009 | 10:31 AM
#20
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 784
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From: MN
My truck ('79 with manual steering) does the same thing, though it seems to be coming from the immediate area of the steering wheel itself. I can hear it plainly in the cab, and the sound only seems to be coming from a foot away.
Are there some bearings up there within the steering column or something that can be greased?
Are there some bearings up there within the steering column or something that can be greased?
So who knows about this wraspy rough scratchy sounding steering haha.
