Pre 84 Trucks 1st gen pickups

locking hub stud torque spec

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Old Apr 24, 2011 | 01:50 PM
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locking hub stud torque spec

Had to test fit and remove locking hubs several times today and last time I took the locking hub off the stud which the cone washers go in backed out with the nut on 2 of the studs. I know I torque the nut to 23 lbs-ft, but I cannot find the stud specs. Have searched for everything in my manual, but cannot find the section which covers the stud specs.
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Old Apr 24, 2011 | 02:30 PM
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Torquing a stud? There's a reason why there's no specs for them.
Studs are designed to be fitted only "finger-tight" into their threaded hole in a casting. However, a locking type of nut (PTN, or prevailing torque nut) is often specified to go on the stud. These two facts present an inherent dilemma. The grip of the PTN on the stud can easily turn the stud when you don't want it to (how often have you removed an exhaust manifold nut and had the stud come out at the same time?)

With this in mind, the installer may be tempted to over tighten the stud into the hole, to make certain it stays put. This mistake happens a couple of ways: Either the stud gets torqued after it bottoms in the hole, or the stud's shoulder (unthreaded section in between the threaded ends) jams into the surface at the edge of the hole. Some studs have no shoulder (all thread), and some holes have no bottom (through hole). This allows for another problem: with nothing to stop it, the stud can insert too deep.

So, why is it wrong to tighten the stud into the hole? Unfortunately, I have even seen it done by supposed "professionals". The way a stud can outperform a bolt in clamping efficiency has to do with the even distribution of stress across the engaged threads. If you torque a stud into a blind hole, you lose that benefit, and concentrate stresses at the first thread in the hole. If you torque the shoulder of a stud against the edge of a threaded hole, you lose the benefit & usually distort the mating surface. It's not as if there is a suitable bearing surface to take the load. Just don't do it.
http://www.bmw2002faq.com/content/view/19/32/
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Old Apr 24, 2011 | 02:40 PM
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I did not know that, thanks. I've not had to replace any studs that threaded in before. I just assumed I was supposed to double nut and torque it to something or other
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Old Apr 24, 2011 | 04:36 PM
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Sometimes it takes atleast that to remove them, as I'm sure you're aware. Sometimes they never come out, and have to be drilled out.

Especially if they're rusty old exhaust studs, or if somebody used locktite when they installed them. That somebody would be me, in a lot of cases.
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Old Apr 24, 2011 | 04:41 PM
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Oh yes, all too aware of stuck things. Nothing as difficult as removing the rear half shaft of a 96 328is BMW. Drilled, torched, hammered, pressed
eventually had to remove the trailing arm and have it melted out by a shop with thermite... but that that point we just replaced the trailing arm. It was just experimental to see how stuck the SOB was.
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Old Apr 25, 2011 | 05:09 AM
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Red loc tite

:wabbit2:
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