Yota Tony

The truck is a trail rig, I only drive it back and forth to the trails.
If gas gets too pricey, I'll just convert to propane.

Yota Tony

I will definately think this out. I only listed parts off the top of my head so I did miss some. I will be fabbing trans mounts, skid plats, exhaust, etc by myself. Save a lil cash.

When I do this I'll also do my dual cases (stock gears in the front case and 4.7s in the back). This coupled with the NV4500 first gear of 6.32:1 will give me a crawl ratio of 358.3:1

So I started looking more into parts, here's what I've decided so far.
For starters, NO BODY LIFT. I do not like them and I refuse to run one. Sawzall and a BFH are my friends for making the room I need. I won't do a hack job either.
- Mount Mounts, I'm going to go with the ones from Downey Off Road. They are bolt and let me position the engine how I want.
- Radiator, Downey again. There 2 core aluminum version. Plus the over flow tank.
- Power Steering, Northwest Off Road's kit will be used as it will allow me to use my stock Toyota pump.
- Oil Pan, NWOR again. Their's will allow for more clearance.
- Starter, NWOR again. They say you need a body lift. I say I don't
- NV4500 with 6.32:1 first gear.
- T-case to tranny adapter, Advance Adapters.
- 4340 Chromo 23 spline t-case outputs from Bobby Long.
- Headers, Advance Adapters.

I will still have to figure out clutch hydraulics. A call or e-mail to AA should take care of that however.

So I want an engine that has 4 bolt mains and a carb. I need to talk with my friend about it and figure out what years and vehicle I can get my engine from.
I will rebuilt the motor before it even sees my truck. It will see all new internals and most likely some hop ups. Carb (Holley truck Avenger I think), Intake manifold, heads maybe and a cam. It will be set up to give me low end torque and horsepower.

yotasavg

so if it's a lot of trouble putting an efi in a carbed, is it easy to keep an efi in an efi truck or is it easier to go carbed as well.

btw. i understand the differences in carbed/efi

frodin1

I've seen it done, and done very nicely I might add. "The small block." Very sweet ride. The only problem is I think because of the bank roll he's got invested, he's either stuck with the truck or he'll take a serious loss if he'd decide to ever sell.

Photog

So; 4 Bolt Mains. Hmmm. The Chevy Small Block came with 4 bolt mains, in the early 70's, in the 400cid version. The only way to get one now, is from an aftermarket block manufacturer. You must want the extra strength, because you are in need of mass quantities of HP and Torque? With that, you will probably need to replace all your axles, drive shafts, and u-joints too.

You want the week link to TRACTION! Not u-joints, driveshafts, axles, gears, etc..-TRACTION. If you break traction, it is free; no repairs necessary.

If you don't need huge HP & Torque, you also don't need 4 bolt mains.

If you put in a small block V8, and built it to be reliable, and slightly underpowered, it will live much longer, and be easier to live with.

Practicality goes a long way, when hitting the tough trails. Otherwise you end up being a nuisance to everyone else, when your rig won't run.

dlbrunner

After doing the swap in a landcruiser, I have to say it was the biggest mistake ever. Keep it yota. Go with a 3.4, 7mge, 1uz, hell a 3.slo anything but chevy.

You will have to have two sets of tools, metric and sae.
Chevys leak

I had a 4 bolt main, camaro 2.02 heads/rv cam/ 650 edlebrock/ vette manifolds. It was almost too much power. yeah it was fun on the freeway on ramp, but on the trail I hated it, too much skinny pedal and it was breaking loose.

Other issues: Cooling was a biggie, you need a good size radiator. when you molest a yota by putting in a chevy, you will loose resale value instantly. you will also loose potential buyers. Any yota with a chevy powerplant I immediately overlook.

dlbrunner

The parts you are throwing out there you are looking at 7K minimum.

I did a 350/sm465 swap and it cost me $3000 all told, I got the motor and tranny (300 for both) cheap and did all the work myself. An NV 4500 (if you can finf the 6:1 will be 2k) It was not the big parts that got me, it was all the nickel and dime stuff, fuel pump, distributor, starter, alternator, manifolds, bla,bla bla

If you do use the sbc I reccommend the mallory beakerless ignition, much simpler than the chev hei. Also go with the quadrajet carb if you insist on carburation. The edlebrock "loads up" with fuel in funky angles, even with the spring loaded needle and seat kit.

with this setup you will get 10mpg, period. uphill downhill, loaded unloaded, 4wd, 2wd. I had mine tuned by a chev mechanic and he told me that is the best I would EVER get.

Get the corvette "rams horn" style manifolds. You won't have much room in the engine bay to work, so these will be your only option unless you get block hugger headers.

Save cash and ditch the NV4500, go with the sm465, they are easier to find, mucho cheaper, and smaller. you still get the 6:1 granny and beef. you loose the overdrive though.

I would go with advanced adapters though vs. downey on the swap parts. I looked at both and the AA had much better instructions and parts lists.

toy4whatever

Find you a Crown Victoria that an old couple has owned(very easy to find). You can pick one up for around a grand. It has the 5.0 HO motor in it(same as mustang). You can use the motor, harness and tranny. Advanced sell the adapter to mate to your transfer case. If you can't find that car the motor is also in the T-bird, Lincoln Contenital and Mercury Grand Marquis. Just a thought.

toy283

Not as tough as you may think. I "think" that NV4500's used a hydraulic throwout bearing. If so, it's a simple matter to run a line up to a Master cylinder. You'll need larger than the stock Toyota though. I used a 1" bore Howe single brake master cylinder for mine. If your tranny uses a slave cylinder and fork, use a Landcruiser slave (or possibly your stocker) with the Howe MC. This is how my SM420 is set up. Anyway you look at it, custom fabbing a hydraulic setup is far easier than dealing with linkage.

Stomis

Odd thing is I had a dream last night that my 3vze gave up and in went a 350 for real cheap at some shop. Drove around with a lumpy a$$ cam making alot of noise with open headers and all my friends mouths just dropped.

DudeBud

and how are sbc any better, ford are smaller weigh less have the same hp or more (all depends on how you build them) if a 302 wont suit you then you can go with a 351 Windsor theres all the torque you would need especially with the stroker kits available.

Yota Tony

Some people like Chevy, some like Ford, it's all the same ☺☺☺☺.

I'm thinking I might go with a Diesel motor instead. Good power, great mileage and lots o torque.

Photog

The 351W is 3" longer and 2" wider than the 5.0 HO (302). You will run out of space fast.

Again, don't forget to replace all the parts from the transfer case to the axle hubs, with much stronger equipment. Otherwise all your Toyota parts will be FORD (Found On Road Dead).

Photog

Diesel might be a great idea. You might check into the Toyota part numbers for the vehicles sold with a diesel. See if they are the same parts you already have, or if they are beefed up, to take the extra torque.

This may also require some changes to your fuel system. You also won't be able to borrow fuel from your trail buddies.

Photog

Why not just put in a stroked 22R (extra torque), with a simple, aftermarket, single-barrel, fuel injection (good fuel economy and smooth power, even upside-down)?

Then you could spend the extra cash on a new truck cab.

Yota Tony

Because I don't really want to spend the cash on the 22R if I can get away with something better.

I don't really have much of a fuel system right now since I'm replacing all the lines and tank.

DudeBud

the windsor is not 3" longer but it is wider, about as wide as a sbc. BTW most toyta parts that you mention are strong enough to handle the power of a mild v8. I haven't broke anything YET.


by the way fuel prices are i would go diesel. start making bio..

Photog

My mistake on wording. I should have said the 351W is 3" taller and 2" wider. Refer to article in Truckin Magazine. http://www.truckinweb.com/brandpages...oked_302_ford/

Also, a MILD V8 would not need 4 bolt main bearings, or a 351W block, as a starting point. People go overboard with V8's, without thinking.

Refer to my previous post about building a reliable, underpowered small block.

DudeBud

4 bolt main bearings? where do i find those? no you don't need a 351w or a 4 bolt main chev block but why not. the reason i'm going Windsor is because I need the extra low end torque. over 400ftlbs at 1500rpm all the way up to 510ftlbs at 5000rpm poor toyota axles

Photog

The reference to the 4 bolt mains, was in response to his Chevy V8 spec sheet, he was writing in an earlier post. It had nothing to do with a 351W Ford engine (which came up in a later post).