I recently lengthened my front driveshaft, and it the slip and all that is good, but the problem is the front u-joint is binding.

It will still turn on level ground, hitting lightly. But any axle travel and that thing would be locking up no doubt.




My question is if you all think that:
1. I could use the flange from an ifs shaft to alleviate the binding issue.
2. If that would allow enough flex to be safe to offroad.

From what I have seen, the flange for an ifs truck allows a great deal more flex than the one that comes on a solid axle truck.

And you think the u-joints would be the same?

 

I ordered the flange for the newer driveshaft, I already have a triple drilled pinion flange, I'll let everybody know what happens when I install it, hopefully I wont need any limiting straps or anything.

Then I gotta figure out how to flex my suspension in the driveway so I can see if there is any binding at full droop.

 

Here are some options: Cut & turn the front housing, get a reverse cut third member, for starters replace the shackles with shorter ones.

 

Or go dual cases. That will lessen the angle.

 

Exactly how much spline engagement do you have?
It looks like when you go full passenger side droop your front diff is gonna drop so low your d/S is gonna
Come apart..

 

It also looks like the slip was cut and sleeved. Weird.

 

I'm not sure how much engagement I have, But i cut and sleeved the shaft myself, it has an extra 1.5 +/- .5" inches of slip.

Didnt really measure it too precise, but I know it won't bottom out, and it shouldnt come free when the axle drops

 

if u notice the spline is showing thats problem 1 u are supost to have 1.50 to 2.0 ionches from botoming out u got about 4 from the pic im a dline tec problem 12 is h yolk hiting we go a new route and go high angle using change over ujoints and milling to acheave more angle we charge 300.00 but it solves the problem you're having dont be foolked if anyone tells u that just because they put a cv together and its not CUSTOM MACHINED then its not truly high angled

 

I have an IFS front drive shaft that I was going to use for my truck, but decided not to. I bought it for $95 shipped. If you want it, I'll cut you the same deal I got it for. And if you have triple drilled flanges then it'll bolt right in

 

you need some degree shims to point the pinion back to the shaft
6* shims should be the ticket

+ those flange bolts don't look correct .. are they grade 11 ?


.

 

I also cut off the dust shield that is usually there when I lengthened the driveshaft, so it is showing more spline than a normal shaft anyways.

With the front axle flange not connected, the double cardan still has alot of droop left, so all the problems are in the front u joint, and I looked into taking apart and grinding(clearancing) the double joint, and that should help if I need to.

 

Thanks for the offer, but the only part I would use from that shaft is the part I already ordered.

I got this part sitting in a box in my living room right now:

http://www.driveshaftparts.com/compo...0-37315-35040/

As compared to the other style, it definitely looks like it is more high angle capable.

http://www.driveshaftparts.com/compo...4-37315-30011/

 

Driveshaftparts.com is where I got mine from too. Great products and even better prices!

 

I really don't wanna mess with shims, as that would throw my caster off, and right now my truck drives beautifully in a straight line and the tires are wearing evenly.

Those flange bolts are 10.9 metric bolts, not the weakest bolts for sure but definitely not the strongest.

 

My truck also sits high in the front, so I might look into taking out a leaf. That would alleviate it a bit, but I am worried it will be hella bouncy, it already looks like a trophy truck when I brake.

[YOUTUBE] [/YOUTUBE]

 

that sounds like a brake bias issue, like you have no rear brakes.
Still have a LSPV in the back?

 

There is no LSPV in the back, stock drums in the rear, IFS calipers with landcruiser rotors in the front and a 1 inch (or 3/4) master cylinder.

So you could probably say they front is doing alot of the work to say the least.

 

Your pinion angle should be parallel to your t-case angle for the driveshaft and u-joints to operate properly. Without actually cutting and rewelding the spring perches and steering balls, the ideal situation on these lifted solid front axles is to sacrifice a little bit of everything to get it to operate and ride as good as possible. A 3-6* shim will mostlikely solve your problem without causing any drastic adverse affects to your tire wear and steering

 

6 degrees will help the angle some, but handling will be greatly sacrificed. I cut and turned mine 10 degrees. Here's how it looks with 4 inch springs and stock length shackles.

 

So adding a manual proportional valve might be a good idea