Pre 84 Trucks 1st gen pickups

Fast idle question

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Old Dec 8, 2017 | 06:27 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Thommo Thompson
slowmo where can i find this toyita carb manual. do u have it in PDF, i really need to refresh up on this stuff.
Ditto on wanting to get a hold of this manual. What is the name of it too? Thank you
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Old Dec 9, 2017 | 11:23 AM
  #22  
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Good information guys, thank you. And I want to find a copy of that carb manual too! Have you guys seen the carb clinic write up for the aisin carbs? It's short but has some good info in it too.
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Old Dec 9, 2017 | 11:28 AM
  #23  
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So I thought I posted this a day back but it looks like it didn't go through. After fiddling with the vacuum line going to the choke opener it started working properly. What I did was just run one vacuum line from bvsv to the opener diaphragm instead of having the line split with the other end plugged into a carb port on that side. I thought I had it setup the way the fsm described but I'm starting to think there was originally another element to the carb in between the aap and choke opener. (Thought I read something about a solenoid there or something) Anyway the truck fired up, climbed to 1500, stayed there for a couple minutes, then jumped to 2100-2200, gradually climbed to 2600 as it finished warming up and once it reached temp the choke opener engaged and dropped it down to curb idle.

Last edited by WolfMann; Dec 9, 2017 at 11:34 AM.
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Old Dec 9, 2017 | 11:30 AM
  #24  
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The handbook is under the "Toyota Technicians" collection of training manuals Toyota printed many years back. They are usually silver black in color.

When I bought it the last time, I found it on Amazon. You can check there or eBay. They come up occasionally.

Here's what it looks like from Amazon:

Amazon Amazon


And here's one from Ebay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-Carb...p2047675.l2557
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Old Dec 9, 2017 | 04:10 PM
  #25  
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ohh booooo no freebies haha.
Wolf thats good news. Perhaps the vacuum was just being lost back into the carb. good move.
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Old Dec 9, 2017 | 05:34 PM
  #26  
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Thanks Thommo, I'm pretty happy about it, nice when things work like they should, ya know.
Now I'm only curious about the 2600 rpm fast idle, I set it following the procedure in a Chilton, plugging egr, setting fast idle cam, and then adjusting it to 2600 with the adjuster screw. I'm fine with the way it warms up, just curious why it hits 26 while Old83's stops at 15?
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Old Dec 9, 2017 | 09:01 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by slow-mo
The handbook is under the "Toyota Technicians" collection of training manuals Toyota printed many years back. They are usually silver black in color.

When I bought it the last time, I found it on Amazon. You can check there or eBay. They come up occasionally.

Here's what it looks like from Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Toyota-Carbur...arburetor+book


And here's one from Ebay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-Carb...p2047675.l2557
Wow! That is pretty neat! I did not know that these manuals existed.

I learn something new everyday.

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Old Dec 10, 2017 | 12:40 PM
  #28  
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There's one one ebay right now.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1987-TOYOTA...9XZKMI&vxp=mtr
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Old Dec 10, 2017 | 04:48 PM
  #29  
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i think its a real shame that we lost carburettors in the 90s. if i could have a modern car with a carby id be very happy.
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Old Dec 10, 2017 | 04:50 PM
  #30  
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yeh 2600 is pretty damn extreme. i dont think thats good with oil which hasnt warmed up yet. warm up rpm should be as low as possible to give smooth running. perhaps just set that fast idle down a bit and see how it goes.
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Old Dec 10, 2017 | 11:31 PM
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I might play around with it some, but even the fsm says 2600 (I double checked) although it sounds to me like the engine should build to that gradually, and it makes more sense now that the engine would sit at 1500 for a few minutes before jumping to 2000+. Like you said Thommo, let the oil warm up. I wonder if the 2600 is to help get engine to operating temp faster? (After things have already warmed up some)

Last edited by WolfMann; Dec 10, 2017 at 11:33 PM.
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Old Dec 11, 2017 | 01:36 AM
  #32  
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well here is one aspect of engine wear that i am certain of. wrt to carb engines only.
if oil is still in the warm up stages, where pressures are within the areas above 50% of the pressure relief valve opening, whilst at idle, the engine should not be operating above the rich idle circuits capacity. if there is enough air entering the carb primary venturi to pull fuel through the main jet, thats too much for warm up.
getting engine warmed up quickly is better off happening under some mild load. just having it rev is going to run it for longer at restricted oil supply, below the threshold of ...... i cannot remember the terminology. the oil does a couple of different tricks in the bearing and journal gaps. one of those tricks doesnt happen under very high pressures, and thats where the serious wear happens.
if anyone could step in and remind me of those terms that would be nice.
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Old Dec 11, 2017 | 01:40 AM
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effectively, revving while cold, increases pressure, which restricts this thing i cant remember the name of, and its better to just leave the pressure lower like just above idle, and let some gentle load on the bearings heat the oil up. revving just chews into the soft bearings.
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Old Dec 28, 2017 | 08:04 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by WolfMann
Thanks Thommo, I'm pretty happy about it, nice when things work like they should, ya know.
Now I'm only curious about the 2600 rpm fast idle, I set it following the procedure in a Chilton, plugging egr, setting fast idle cam, and then adjusting it to 2600 with the adjuster screw. I'm fine with the way it warms up, just curious why it hits 26 while Old83's stops at 15?
Cause I adjusted mine to do that! Its a 22R fast idling not Rolls Royce Merlin's doing a magneto test!

I don't think it idled that fast (2600) even when brand spanking new.

Last edited by Old83@pincher; Dec 28, 2017 at 08:07 AM.
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