WolfMann

Hey guys so here's what's going on, I'll install the distributor per fsm instructions, but the timing is still off, if I advance it all the way it hits 0 degrees but won't go any father. Must be off a tooth I figure, so I pull it out, move it over one and then I have a different problem, I'll retard the timing as far as it can go but it hits 8 degrees and won't go any further. So for whatever reason I can't seem to get into the 0-8 degrees range, which is strange because the hood decal calls for 5 degrees.
Has anyone had this problem before, I'm wondering if there's a middle tooth that I'm missing, might try again with valve cover off.

The other weird thing is that the idle advance does not work when I plug it in. This is a brand new distributor/advance diaphragm and the vacuum line is routed straight to the carb. The timing will advance under acceleration but that's it, again any thoughts? Thanks guys.

95yoda

Maybe it's spun 180deg the wrong way.

I have to admit I made that mistake on my last 82 and a good mechanic buddy of mine came over and it was 180deg off. He switched that and it popped right off and was perfect.

WolfMann

It never hurts to double check, and I've certainly overlooked things myself, the other day I forgot to connect vacuum to manifold when I put the air filter housing back on, figured it out when I went to correct the high idle.

If the distributor was in 180 degrees off would the truck even start? Did yours display the same symptoms?
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akwheeler

If you spun the spark plug wires around as well it will run

WolfMann

So I went out and checked, set timing mark to zero, distributor rotor was pointing at number one, I removed the number one cylinder spark plug and the piston was at the top of its travel. I could fit a screwdriver in there and feel it. So to my understanding the distributor is not 180 degrees out.

akwheeler

your crank turns twice for every one rotation of the distributor. if your dizzy is 180 degrees out the crank would still be at tdc but on the exhaust stroke instead of the compression stroke and it wouldn't run, but if you turned your crank another full rotation your dizzy would turn 180 and if you moved your plug wires around so the rotor pointed at number one it would run. This is why you need to be sure you are on the compression stroke when you set your timing mark and stab the distributor. Either by verifying pressure increase or by pulling the valve cover to see both of the valves closed on #1. Just being at TDC doesn't mean your timing is correct, it must be at TDC on the compression stroke!

slacker

iTrader: (1)

^ correct .. in order to find true TDC .. you need to have the valve cover off


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akwheeler

^or put your thumb over the spark plug hole/use a compression gauge. But that won't allow you to check the timing marks on the cam sprocket, could still be a tooth off

WolfMann

You'd want to make sure the rocker arms are loose for no. 1 cylinder if you were looking for TDC compression, but the surest way would be to look at cylinder no. 1 piston position, should be at top of travel.