Now I don't necessarily expect someone to know what's going on here, but if you could help me understand some things I'm sure I can figure it out myself if no one here knows. Check out the photo. I haven't used the heat much (especially since the trucks been out of comission), but I think that the cold/hot control didn't do anything. If I put the other control on "heat", though, I'd get heat. I think the hot/cold is disconnected, but somehow putting the vents on "heat" gives me heat. Not sure if what's going on in the photo is at all related to this. If I turn the "hot/cold" control to hot, that's what opens the valve so that coolant comes in to the heater core, right? So how could the PO have changed it so that "heat" gives me heat, but "hot/cold" does nothing? Seeing as the engine is out and will be rebuilt, and I'm replacing hoses...I'd like to understand what's going on here so i can decide if I'd like to fix it, or just do things the same way. I think you can see right next to the other hose coming out of the firewall where the "hot/cold" wire is just sticking out, not attached to anything.Thanks!

 

I think we need a bigger, closer photo

 

doesn't the 'hot/cold' control refer to either 'recirculating' or 'fresh' air intake- so if it's set to 'hot' it draws air from the cab, but 'cold' draws air from the vents in front of the windshield? more relevant to the defrost setting than the other vent settings, I'd think.

pics of the 'hot/cold' switch you're talking about and close-up pics of the hoses under the hood, near the firewall and where they go to the engine will help.

 

Ok, I'll take some more photos. I was hoping I could get away with using ones I've already got on my computer. Here you get to see my hack job.
Separate control for "fresh" or "recirculate". Warm/Cool does nothing, you can see the cable coming out of the firewall moving in & out, not connected to anything. When I put the vents on "heat", I get heat. I'll take a close up of the firewall.

 

Ok. The valve is clearly doing nothing other than offering a shut-off (but why?). Here are some closer up photos.






So you can see the "Warm/Cool" cable hanging there attached to nothing. It was just like that when the engine was in the truck. The valve on the coolant hose isn't connected to anything that would give me control from the cab.

 

The PO has obviously replaced the heat control valve with a ball valve. You will probably need different hoses and the correct valve and bracket to make it "factory like". Otherwise, run what you got and turn the valve on to allow flow in the winter and off in the summer.

 

Ok, so was it my imagination that I could get cool air when the vents weren't switched to "heat"? Basically your saying that either the ball valve is open and I've got heat coming into my vents (aside from the fresh air ones on the sides), or it's closed and I've got no heat?

I guess for now it stays how it is, I just want to get this damn thing running, can't fix every little thing..
Thanks!

 

Well, I'll just say that with the ball valve open, coolant is running through the heater core which will obviously produce heat. With it closed, there will be no circulation and therefore less heat.

I would just leave it alone, it sounds like you have bigger fish to fry...

 

You got that right! It's all coming together, though....Mid September...darn well better be driving it by then. Winter is not the time I was hoping to start driving a 1st gen. Want to get a little more attached to it first in some nice warm weather!

 

I hear ya. Good luck getting it all sorted out and running like a champ.