Yup, slipping clutch. Get yourself a clutch kit and a rear main seal while you're at it (and possibly a trans input seal).

 

Header leak?

 

Do you think the clutches on Rock Auto are decent or should go for something from NAPA?

 

Rock Auto will have more selection than Napa, and probably carry the same clutches as Napa.

I did get a LUK clutch the last two times I did clutches. Supposedly they're one of the companies that Toyota went with for OEM through the years. If you can get one through Napa, that'd be cool.

I get a lot from Rock Auto, though...All depends on what you get. Stuff on Rock Auto runs the gamut from crap to OEM.

 

Rock Auto has the LUK kit for $68. NAPA has a kit for $109. I have no problem spending the extra money on NAPA but if people think the LUK is good enough that's ok with me.

Next thing is deciding on doing it myself. Ideally I would do a lot of other work at the same time as this. I will also do the rear main seal, clutch slave cylinder, I have a new NAPA master cylinder, plus all new front brake hardware (rears are already done). I would also like to replace all the hard lines off the master cylinder. A lot of the lines and the master are really rusty.

But back to the clutch, I would assume my FSM has all I need to know. Getting space to work on my truck is a bet of an issue right now but I might be able to take over the garage for a week. I also need to do this before its time to start traveling to my community garden spot.

 

It's not hard, just awkward and heavy and dirty work. Some very knowledgeable people caution against doing the rear main, unless it's leaking. Leave it alone until it's time for a rebuild if it isn't.

Others might disagree.

You can google Luk and Toyotas, I found threads on them when I was looking into new clutches.

You can also search here for the clutch instructions. I think we've spelled it out for people quite a few times. A helper or two makes it pretty fast.

 

LUK is or was an original equipment suplier for oem volkswagen clutch, good stuff in my book!

And in your video there is this tic tic tic sound under acceleration that really sounds like a header leak, maybe an exhaust leak though, maybe it's just the video, mine definately doesn't sound like that.

 

I think the tick is the fan on the alt clipping the housing. Ever since I changed the original alt I have had that tick. Never got around to messing with it.

 

LUK, Sachs, Rhinopac, and Valeo are huge clutch manufacturers whose products are the standard organic-disk OEM offering on an awful lot of vehicles. Unless you're doing something special that requires a 6-puck clutch or whatever, a clutch made by them (sold by whomever) will do you just fine.

Regarding the RMS: I'd like to see the argument against replacing a $5 seal that takes 2-4 hours to get to and whose failure can lead to needing a new $80 clutch (I've personally had it happen once). Grooves worn into the crank rear hub? Then mount the seal 3mm further inboard.

What I'm not sure of, and hopefully someone will chime in about, is replacing the trans input seal. Can it be done without tearing apart the whole trans? A leak there can also lead to clutch failure, nevermind transmission failure if it runs dry.

 

With the input shaft seal, I think it depends on the transmission. Our transmissions might be set up so you can do it without tearing into it. Just remove the bearing cover plate in the bell housing.

Marlin, of Marlin Crawler, is the one who cautions against replacing the rear main. Could be the groove, I'm not sure. I think his thing was that they rarely leak, and if they do, there's something major going on anyways.

Could be that he deals with more inexperienced people, but he said he's seen more problems come from replacing it than solutions. I have his actual words and reasoning saved somewhere, but not sure where.

Either way, if you know what you're doing and have done it with good results before, then go for it. But I think for a person fairly new to this stuff, pulling their first tranny and thinking "hey, I'll do the rear main while I'm in there"...I'd be very careful and do your research.

 

My general rule of thumb, ESPECIALLY when dealing with older vehicles, if it ain't broke don't fix it unless it's a known trouble point. I've only had two R engines, and never one with a seal problem. Neither of them has been a leaker. Moroza is also correct. Personal preference issue.

 

I'm looking at getting one of those 450lb capacity transmission jacks from Harbor Freight. That should be enough for my transmission, right?

 

Yes. It's not necessary, but if you want a transmission jack and don't mind buying one, it certainly won't hurt.

 

Yep. Standard jacks and 2x4s work fine too.

 

Hmm I will have to google how that works with 2x4s

 

Probably not the best way, but I've always just kept a jack under the t-case, then taken all the bolts out. It's usually fused well enough to the engine that it's not going anywhere suddenly. You just want the weight of the the t-case hanging out there to be supported by something once the cross member is off.

It takes a couple people under there, rocking the tranny back & forth for a bit to break it loose, then you just lower it down between you, gently.

But yeah, a transmission jack couldn't hurt.

 

C'mon man! Tranny jack?! Pull up your big boy britches, lay on your back under the truck, give that big ole pig a bear hug and yank it out. Then reverse the procedure to put it back in. That's how I do it - as my transmission jack lies in the corner of the shop idle.... I just find it easier to manipulate it that way.

 

Lol! In high school I had to do a torque converter on my Chev, so I just dropped the turbo 350 on my chest, swapped converters (being drenched with atf in the process) and benched it back up to the bellhousing. Probably not sane or intelligent, but highly effective and time efficient.

 

Can't remember if it was this forum or Marlin Crawler forum, but there was a guy a few years ago who did his transmission by himself, with no jack. Bench pressed it up, stabbed it, then held it up with his legs while he got enough bell housing bolts in to secure it. Pretty sure he did it with the t-case attached...

Yikes! I'm sure he's not the only one to have done it that way. But still...I couldn't do that. With my last one, I just invited a friend over and he bench-pressed it up then I put the top two bolts in. But I couldn't have pushed it up like he did.

 

Let the manliness competition begin!

Its a simple way to do it and in many ways easier, but dangerous and inadvisable. Especially with the 4wd tranny and tcase or a heavy hydraulic transmission. I might still do it that way myself but my knuckles drag, I drool and I answer to 'Grug.' Meaning unless you have the stature and intelligence of a caveman, use a Jack. Jacks come with their own dangers as well. Gearboxes are quite heavy and swapping them is one of the more dangerous excersizes to be performed in repair activities.