Clutch peddle 3/4 is dead.
#1
Clutch peddle 3/4 is dead.
The clutch peddle on my 78 hilux, top 3/4 of the peddle is dead. It actually in gages the clutch only at the very bottom of the peddle. When the cabin was just bare metal I did not notice the problem. Since I put new carpet in it with insulation it is very hard to get the car in first gear and reverse I really have to push on the pedal which will eventually ruin the carpet in that spot where to paddle is.
How can I adjust the pedals so that I can have use of it throughout the paddle and also bring it up a bit to compensate for the fact that I have carpet and insulation there now?
How can I adjust the pedals so that I can have use of it throughout the paddle and also bring it up a bit to compensate for the fact that I have carpet and insulation there now?
#2
Knowing model, year and engine type might help you to get answers.
There is likely an adjustment on the pushrod coming out of the slave cylinder that would permit that rod to be lengthened.
You should also look to rod adjustments between the pedal and the clutch master cylinder. The FSM is your friend.
There is likely an adjustment on the pushrod coming out of the slave cylinder that would permit that rod to be lengthened.
You should also look to rod adjustments between the pedal and the clutch master cylinder. The FSM is your friend.
#5
Your 78 has a Master Cylinder which is mounted on the firewall and the clutch pedal actuates, and a slave cylinder which is mounted to the passenger side bellhousing and actuates the clutch fork.
Both cylinders have adjustments using threaded rods. Is your pedal coming all the way "up"? eg, level with the brake pedal? if so, I wouldn't make any changes on the master side.
Its been a while since I've done it but I believe its a fairly simple matter to adjust the slave. I think there is a "cup" on the end that rides on the clutch fork and then a locknut. Just loosen the locknut and turn the cup. You'll want to "loosen" it, or make it move toward the clutch fork to get more engagement. I would caution you to make gradual changes, theres not a lot of movement on that end and even small changes can make a big difference.
Of course, this is assuming your system is just misadjusted. Its possible you may have a bad seal or air in the system. Particularly the latter can cause the symptoms you're describing. If I were you I would probably start by checking for leaks and bleeding the system, it doesn't take long or cost very much and it will make sure everything is good before you start adjusting. If you find any signs of leaks both the master and slave cylinders are relatively cheap and easy to replace. I just replaced mine last summer, I got both through rockauto for less than $20 shipped.
Good luck.
Both cylinders have adjustments using threaded rods. Is your pedal coming all the way "up"? eg, level with the brake pedal? if so, I wouldn't make any changes on the master side.
Its been a while since I've done it but I believe its a fairly simple matter to adjust the slave. I think there is a "cup" on the end that rides on the clutch fork and then a locknut. Just loosen the locknut and turn the cup. You'll want to "loosen" it, or make it move toward the clutch fork to get more engagement. I would caution you to make gradual changes, theres not a lot of movement on that end and even small changes can make a big difference.
Of course, this is assuming your system is just misadjusted. Its possible you may have a bad seal or air in the system. Particularly the latter can cause the symptoms you're describing. If I were you I would probably start by checking for leaks and bleeding the system, it doesn't take long or cost very much and it will make sure everything is good before you start adjusting. If you find any signs of leaks both the master and slave cylinders are relatively cheap and easy to replace. I just replaced mine last summer, I got both through rockauto for less than $20 shipped.
Good luck.
#6
Thanks for all the replies guys. I bled the system first then I adjusted the peddle nut and bolt in the cabin a little. And everything works fine. There was no sign of leaking, I double checked before started the adjustment's on both the master cylinder and under the truck. I also noticed that in the manual it says the master cylinder has a bleeding nipple. My does not. There was only one at the bottom by the transmission. Drove the truck Saturday and Sunday and things seem to be ok.







