First person to help me solve this gets 20 bucks to their paypal for a case of beer or their needs.

Just got a 82 sr-5 4x4 that is mint, but it needed an alternator. got the wrong alt. first. started it up, thought it was the regulator. Bought a regulator. no success. done some research and realised i had the wrong alt. swapped it out and charging great. Bought from wives grandfather original owner. original alt.

well drove it two days and all of a sudden the charge light comes on, Look down and its overcharging like a MOTHER. 16 volts and above. on the interstate and could not stop so drove a few miles and smelled what i believe the alt burn up. But kept charging high for the rest of the trip home. Brand new battery i bought two days ago. figured it was still under warranty.

well get the last 20 miles home and driving in my driveway the alt dies and no more charge. Knowing that all components are under warranty i take the new regulator off. put the new one on and it does nothing, take the alt off and put another new one on and it does nothing.

checked all under the dash fuses and they were all great. all wire look good.

Call me retarded but where are the inline fuses, if they are in the green connectors before the battery how do I get them apart to get to the fuse other than pulling them apart. all wires are original. Nothing cut or spliced anywhere.

I can put 12 volts direct on the white wire with black stripe and get a spark show. on the battery. Ohming out any of the three wires while its on the alt. to ground and they ohm out.

Yellow wire and green wire both show 4.8 volts with truck running to ground.

Charge relay under the passenger side when unplugged the light goes off.

I am stumped. I know I can do the GM 1 wire and may do it but I would love to keep the truck original.

I am a ddc controls programmer for honeywell controls and have never had anything stump me like this before.

PLEASE HELP

 

Go have your stock alternator rebuilt and put it back in. It's hella better than that one your replaced it with I'm sure.

:wabbit2:

 

Already been traded in for a core a few days ago and long gone, Already thought about that and it was to late.

Also I might add. the regulator has constant 12 volts on the larger white wire and the ignition switch wire is working correctly when the key is turned on.

Can anyone tell me where to put voltage on the alt to test if it will charge, like a jumper, also does anyone know how to test the regulator. Autozone couldn't even test the alt they sold me, Their machine was not compatible with this one.

 

Try a FSM
www.ncttora.com/fsm

:wabbit2:

 

The 82 that I had would only charge when 12v was jumped to the charge light relay.I do not remember which wire to jump to, but you might try it. My trouble was between the instrument cluster and the charge light relay,but the truck sold before the problem was found.

 

have you tried replacing your charge lamp relay? I had the same prob on my 82 went threw 2 alts 2 regulators and lots of head aches for it to only turn out to be the charge lamp relay

 

I am about to take apart the relay now and check the pins. Did your truck charge??? mine is not charging at all!

 

Charge Lamp relay looks great, I am about to use my dc voltage generator and make sure it functions. also I just re soldered my emission controls box and fixed a bad studder at idle and a dieing at deceleration problem, from my readings it does not effect the charging system. or does it?

 

charge relay is working fine, I am lost.

 

What type of alternator do you have? There were two types that were found in these rigs in the early 80's.

One kind is near impossible to find, and the other is what is on everybody elses rig.
My guess is that youre not getting 12v sense from the ignition on from your column.

 

I have the correct L shaped plug 40 amp alt. but the problem is solved, I just went back out and took all this crap back off and am going with the GM 1 wire kit, ordering it tomorrow and hoping that autozone will let me trade this alt in on a GM one. I doubt they will take back the regulator, but neither was ever started lol. Thanks guys for the quick reply's.

 

You did not state which type of voltage regulator you had-IC or Tirill. Did you check the condenser-Blue wire connected to red wire circuit on IC and Tirill regulator or did you check the diode circuit in the charge light circuit? Did you check your Grounds, Fuse links at battery or for fused wires in wiring harnesses? The Toyota charging systems in 1979-1983 trucks are pretty simple and bullet proof. I have mine for 28 years and only replaced the IC type voltage regulator once about 12 years ago.

 

It was an Ic regulator but its all come out now. I have a feeling it fried something during that 20 miles of high voltage driving. And I would rather not spend and more money searching

 

Okay but you should check all of your wiring harness because if you install the single wire GM you still could have a problem due to damaged wires. Also the wiring harness might not handle the GM unit if the Amp rating of the new unit is much higher than stock. I ran an 8 gauge wire from the output of my modified high output Toyota alternator to my battery along with the stock wiring.

 

Just picked up an ac delco. They did let me swap them out. I am just hoping the ac delvis works with the bracket. It was not listed on the site but its a one wire alt

 

Oh new alt is only 45 amps

 

I have a bracket assembly to mount a Delco 1 wire alternator on a 22R motor. It is brand new and I doubt if if I will ever use it. $75.00 (that is what I paid for it) plus shipping if you are interested.

 

Already got one for 57 and thats shipped.thanks for the offer though

 

my truck wasnt charging and I traced evry wire and still was having issues but I tried the charge lamp and it fixed it for me...

 

i just went through the same stuff wit my 80.. bought 2 regulator 2 different alts and in the end went wit the gm 1 wire kit.. had it up n running in about an hour. but i recomment running a new heavier gauge wire form the alt to the battery the stock one is routed very stupid and about half of the size of what is recomended for anything over 40 amps..